which oil are you guys using? is there a consensus on which is best? I started developing a few small leaks on my 3.2 this spring and didn't realize that my mechanic had switched to Amsoil 10w-40 full synthetic this year. The car hadn't leaked at all for two year prior while using a different oil. Anyone else experience the same thing? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I am using this, Miles 15w40 CK4. Used to be an amazing deal at $40 for a 5 gallon bucket with free shipping but price has gone up every year...
You know, the guy who owns Blackstone Lab that does the used oil analysis was asked that same question. His answer: "Whatever is on sale." Any brand name oil is good to him and he did a few million samples.
Your leaks would be unrelated to the brand/viscosity of oil - synthetic was standard from factory on the 3.2, and can (should) be used now without any issues. A 5W-40 or 10W-40 synthetic is ideal. I use the Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, it's the Ferrari-endorsed grade. The oil leaks are likely from seals or hoses that have dried up a bit, it's a continuous battle to keep ahead of the little leaks here and there.
I’ve been using Brad Penn. I’m told it has the correct amount of zinc and other additives to keep our cars happy. Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat.com mobile app
I’ll respectfully disagree. There’s too much evidence to the contrary Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Hi Ron, that has been highly recommended to me by a few people. Also Valvoline 20w-50 vr1 has been mentioned a few times Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
Brad Penn & Valvoline racing oils are designed for older flat tappet motors like my TR3A race car . I would think they are not suitable for our Ferrari's
Nope. "flat tappet" as referenced by all the oil threads discussing ZDDP zinc content refers to old American V8s with overhead valves, a single camshaft with flat tappets pushing long, heavy pushrods, rocker arms, 2 big valves with heavy springs - a LOT of valve train mass and inertia causing very high forces on the cam to tappet face. Our double overhead cam directly acting on buckets over 2 or 4 light valves and relatively soft springs have a fraction of the cam-tappet forces on them than the actual "flat tappet" V8s do, so we don't ever experience the excessive wear on the tappets or need especially high zinc content. It's become a common misunderstanding that any cam follower that is flat is what is meant by "flat tappet".
Valvoline VR1 20w-50 Racing oil. Hi zinc. The one my mechanic puts in and the one I was told to use for these cars.
I believe the leaks would likely be worse with synthetic oil. But you can assemble a motor that does not leak, if you use silicone gasket sealer. A particularly leaky spot is around the cam O-ring area. This gets worse over time. I live in the tropics, so use a heavy 20w-50 racing oil. This is likely too heavy for cold climates. The thinking these days is to use light 5w oils to prevent sludge build up. This won't happen if the oil is changed regularly. Synthetic oil itself will last a long time, but it will still get contaminates in it. So I think it's best to change it out at regular intervals, say 3,000 miles. JMO.
Mobil 1 15w 50 . I changed the oil once a year even if the car is only used every Sunday for 30 mins of spirited driving .
