I have read a lot of threads about this issue still would like some help on solving my specific issue: I was driving my car and notice that it was getting hotter than normal. What I found is the fans we're not turning on once the temp hit around 210. I had tested them a while ago and they were working. So I started looking at all the treads on overheating and fans not working I have done the following: Checked the coolant level and its fine and the coolant is in good condition There are no leaks I can detect turn on the AC and the right side fan will turn on and stay on Both radiators are getting hot using a laser thermometer they are up to 150 / 160 Switch should turn on around 190F Engine temp 220 fans should be on Jumped the left side fan relay and the fan turns on so both fans are operational Jumped the radiator switch and both fans turn on and even tested the high speed working fine Tested each relay and both function correctly Loosened the fan switch and coolant did drip out Replaced the Switch - coolant did come out - still no fans Cleaned all the contacts with contact cleaner Tested the old switch and it works fine - using a heat gun I can turn the fans on with the old switch using the old switch the fans turn on around 110 - 120F using a laser temp reader Questions: Do I need to bleed the system ? how did air get in? The front is jacked up - do I need to level the car run it to temp and then test? Does the car have to be level to bleed ? This is a spider so access to the bleed screw is limited very limited from the engine bay suggestions here There was a suggestion to remove all the coolant and start again - seems like a lot of work? I could just jumper the fans until the end of the season (I live in the northeast) and fix it over the winter. Do I need to purchase and airlift system to fix this issue? Thanks for any help on this question.
Hey man so I had a drama like this with mine .. fans would kick on tho .. how ever if I drove the car they wouldn’t the temp rises coolant pissing out the overflow when stopped ... following issue was hoses loose at the front radiator.. tightened clamps fitted a new resistor drivers side cause was not to good Bleed coolant problem seemed to be solved ..
I was thinking that maybe the ground signal (when the switch is made) not getting to the relay. However, if it works with a heat gun then there is no break in the circuit. I would swap the relays anyways (I know they checked out ok). Yes, a mystery that only with coolant it does not function which would suggest boiling and voids being created around the switch which happens to be at the top of the rad. Have you changed to a newer rad cap (that affects the bp of the rad fluid)?
Thanks for the reply - I was thinking a bad/weak ground as well but when I tested the old switch with a heat gun the fans work just fine. I have ordered an airlift should be here today to purge the system and a new radiator cap which should also be here today. I plan to bleed the system and put the new cap on and re-test the system see if the fans come on at 210 on the gauge. I also ordered a new temp sender just incase the gauge is wrong? in my last test the car got up to 230 no boil over and the right fan cam on which means the radiator was only 187F but the engine was showing 230 it seems like there are voids in the system or its pulling air in from the radiator cap not allow the water to circulate through the system.
Update - Received my new parts and airlift kit and over the weekend I bled the system and replaced the radiator cap. Started the car and warmed it up. After idling in the garage for a while the fan on the right started to cycle on and off. Temp gauge was showing 1/2 way between the 210 and red make should be around 220 it did not seem to go any higher. Oil temp stayed normal. Turned the car off no boiling over or coolant being released from the overflow. I did check the temp of the engine with a laser temp gage in various locations non were over 200? After checking some threads and talking to a few 360 owners the temp gauge should never go above 210 so now I am thinking the sending unit is bad! After all it is 20 years old and the I did have to replace the oil pressure sender it went bad. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Update incase anyone is following this thread - Turns out the car has been running really warm over 200 when it being driven. When you have not lost coolant and not knowing this car as well as other ones I have worked on - you get really scared when the temp is over 210 and the fans are not working!! After all the diagnostics and verification of the fan circuit and fan operation I was able to figure out that the issue was water flow to the radiators. Fan would cycle at 220+ but this is way to hot for this motor. I did replace the temp sensor which was not the problem I was left with either the water pump or thermostat. I removed the thermostat and tested it pot of water it never opened at the proper temp - Wow and the car did not over heat or boil over I replace the thermostat and ran the car - temp never climbed above 190 idling in the garage and the fan cycled on and off I did have one issue the replace part sent by Ricambi for the lower gasket / O Ring would not create a seal it was thiner and much harder than the one I took out. I was forced to use the old gasket which did seal without any leaks. Problem is now solved - if you fans are not working and the temp is rising - could be the simplest thing the thermostat
You can also jump the relay for the fans to confirm the fans are good. If so its the fan temp switch, thermostat or air in the system. Usually thermostat if cooling system was not recently serviced.
you would only get air if you are loosing coolant Radiator thermostat rarely goes bad - If you have not lost any coolant and the car is running hot or the fans are not working check the thermostat
Unless someone did service and did not bleed correctly right before the issue arose which we don't know. (happend to me with my own service ) But it was deemed thermostat which makes sense and was the most obvious.
I’m having a similar issue with my 360, left side fan will not come on when driving. Temp gets to 230, I have had the coolant flushed, new expansion cap, new fan thermoresistor, and new radiator temperature sensor, mechanic has tested the relays and he says both fans come on, but when I drive the car only the right side fan is coming on, any advice
Not sure what you or he means by this. Did he both test the LH fan relay (with it removed) and also test the fan circuit by jumpering the relay socket? Since all of the components seem to have been replaced, it must be the wiring. There is a diode in the circuit, but for the LH fan circuit, I don't think it matters if the diode is shorted or open circuit. If the diode was short circuited, it looks like the LH fan would also be influenced by the aircon gas pressure switches (but wouldn't stop the LH fan operating for high temperatures). I would check the power going to LH fan relay (R28) coil (pin 2 or 85) and the wiring between the relay (pin 1 or pin 86) and the thermoswitch (light blue wire). Does the mechanic have a wiring diagram? Coupe wiring diagram here: https://www.dropbox.com/t/RgFo80Lw78EP9Nsn Link expires in 6 days. Has the mechanic properly bled the coolant system?
Thanks so much for the great information, sorry I’m not the most mechanical inclined person so I’m not sure exactly how to explain what he did with the relays. Thanks for the wiring diagram. Will try your suggestions and will let you know if it works. Thanks again.
Yes he bled the coolant. Thanks for the information. My Dropbox is full and I don’t use it anymore, could you send the wiring diagram as a pdf?
Not sure I understand. You shouldn't need to use your Dropbox account. Just download directly to your computer using the link. Here's a pdf version, but it may not be as clear as the original at 100% magnification: https://www.dropbox.com/t/UkCU11AwdHWc1R7l Also, the bottom of it seems to be missing. The converter can't handle an image this big.
Dr. Titans, you need to make sure the fan is working properly. Apply 12V to it, does it spin? After that, you need to make sure the fuse, relay are in working condition, and the fuse board is not burnt out due to excessive heat. Jump the relay, does the fan turn on? After that, your mechanic (or you) needs to properly fill the coolant system and properly bleed it to make sure that the fan switch sees the coolant and can detect its temperature. If all that is OK, then the fan must run.
In my case it was a simple thing the thermostat was stuck closed Something to consider when the A/C is on the right side fan will run. This can make you think the right fan is working correctly. I would pull the thermostat and replace it! You can check it using a pot of boiling water Easy to get to from the inspection hatch. Order the factory correct on with the rubber gaskets. Make sure when you install the new gaskets they are not pinched or sticking out in the back Use an air lift to verify the installation (should hold a vacuum) and refill the system Should be good to go! Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Good point. The temperature switches are on the RH radiator. With the thermostat closed, hot coolant from the engine can't get to the radiators. Image Unavailable, Please Login Does the RH fan turn off when the A/C is off?
