Putting in the Scud Ing rear lights package. I started with the CHMSL. The flasher module must be protected by the heat shield when reassembling. The problem is, with it in the center of the heat shield it is not possible to button up the ends. The module acts like a fulcrum and while you can attach one end, there is not enough give in the heat shield to bend it. The module is just too fat. And because of the dimensions of the shield, the module will only lie flat, the position in which it is the widest. The kit without the flasher would have been a better choice since I just went with the default values so it wasn't necessary after all. The basic power supply appears thinner and longer and probably fits. Anyone run into this issue? If so what is the solution? Ray
I murdered that sentence. What I wanted, and still want, is the flasher, to alert the mopes, just no need to program it. The defaults are perfectly acceptable.
Has anyone installed the third brake light (CHMSL) kit with the flasher unit from Scud Ing? I think I discovered the source of the issue: The printed instructions. The flasher relay can not be placed within the heat shied. It must be placed to one side of the light mechanism outside of the heat shield. That helps explain why the wire leads are so long. PSA. The real heat shied has two holes at the back where the light unit bolts pass through. You must put a washer over the bolt outside the heat shield because over time the nuts which secure it have widened the holes to the point where they no longer hold it tight against the bolts. Age.
I installed the flasher module and had a lot of trouble with StefVan's instructions. It was necessary to replace the existing heat shield with a replacement from Ricambi as I tore the mounting slots of the original rather badly when I tried to fit the flasher module inside the engine lid. Moreover, I found working with the "micro" nuts to be a real pain in the neck . I used a variety of means, e..g., taping the nuts to a 1/4 " drive socket to guide them into place in order to get them started on their matching studs. I likewise found it necessary to add small washers because the slots in the heat shield would expand caused the heat shield to work loose . It was an attempt to address this oversight in the instructions that caused me to destroy the original heat shield, As I recall, the washers were necessary because the ends of the heat shield were slots (not holes) so keeping everything together while I attempted to place the washers and start the nuts on the studs was damn near impossible. Because of an understandable concern for high engine temperature and the "too hot to handle" hatch after a drive, I purchased some ceramic fiber insulation and some gold reflective tape and enclosed the module in a sandwich of these two materials. I carefully stuffed the module inside the hatch. An unforeseen benefit of this was the module did not rattle inside the hatch. In spite of my effort to control rattling, I found that the "Ferrari" logo on the hatch rattled. I devised a system of Teflon spacers under the mounting studs and tapped the studs for the use of small nuts with accompanying washers. The tapping had to be carefully done as the logo is made of soft "pot" metal, and it would have been easy enough to snap those studs off the logo. A job I thought would take a couple of hours lasted an entire day, not counting the delays in getting a new part from Ricambi and the heat insulation materials. The flasher does work well and the increased brightness of the LED taillights made the effort a worthwhile upgrade. The system has been 100% reliable. However, I would not want to undertake this project again.
I had played with the idea of buying the flasher unit but after hearing the install issues, no way do I want to tackle that. I’ll leave well enough alone. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
I think the way to do this, unless you have very tiny hands, and my hands are small, is to remove the shroud below the glass, which is only a dozen bolts and disconnecting the struts. That way there is room to maneuver. I will include a photo of where *I* installed the ECU which may not be a good place in terms of heat. I'm installing the Capristo exhausts brackets now. And fortunately, I removed the diffuser first because that's where every dropped bolt and washer winds up. I also replaced all the stock incandescent bulbs with Stef's LED kit. That was the stations of the cross because space is very limited. But the biggest PITA was that little handle to open the fuel door. You have to reattach an "E" clip to keep the cable from retracting back into the car. It is extremely difficult and time-consuming. I recommend starting with the right side first. That lets you get a little experience before tackling the more difficult left side. Other than the tight quarters, it's really just six nuts (don't lose the washers) and four screws per side. The finished product is incredibly bright, including the backup lights which give a whole new meaning to "bright". The instructions need to be clarified. But that does not detract from the product itself. IMHO. Ray
If the instructions are clarified it would be a lot quicker and easier to install. Despite the agita, I'm happy with the end result. Ray
Here is where I positioned the flasher ECU unit. I may go to home depot and see if the have suitable insulating material and remove, wrap it, and reinstall. Image Unavailable, Please Login
