348 - My 18" wheel thread | Page 2 | FerrariChat

348 My 18" wheel thread

Discussion in '348/355' started by Ferrarium, Jun 7, 2020.

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  1. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    One bushing is collapsed close to 4mm, so that side will ride 4mm lower as the weight of the car pushed on the top of that bushing on what can be described as soft freaking rubber. New bushing design is much harder. The issue with pressing the bush out of the shock is the bung has so little material to support a mandrel and using a large socket just digs the teeth into the shock bung. The solution as I see it is a custom mandrel I'll have machined. On the front side a 1" socket works fine to push, the the support on the back side.


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  2. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    You can see the collapsing bush, Its probably OK to put back in actually, but is is failing so now is the time. Guaranteed under load is squished another mm or more

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  3. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

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    Good info, I think this will be the next job I’ll be doing to my car. All the suspension bushes, get the shocks checked.....
     
  4. QSA

    QSA Formula Junior
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    Im in the process of replacing every bushing and ball joint f/r, having the shocks rebuilt, and rebuilding the steering rack as well. Going to have the top F-car mechanic in the area do aN alignment and set the ride height (where I want it). Can’t wait to see what she feels like when done.
     
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  5. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    #30 Ferrarium, Jun 20, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2020
    I did all that but did not do the shock at that time. New ball joints and tie rods and fresh rack makes the driving so much more enjoyable. You'll say ohhh that's what they were talking about with amazing steering.

    Ok so back from machine shop just now. They made a tool for it. They made a backing mandrel and a plug to push out the bushing. Then they made a sleeve the same OD as the bushings outter sleeve mandrel used to press out the pushing, put mandrel in that sleeve and use that to press the new bushing in to the bung.

    And here is the finished bushings pressed in. Big difference.
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  6. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

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    Very nice, that tool you had made is simply awesome!! Looks like it made the job very straight forward.
    Do you have a CAD of that? I’d be very keen to be able to get this machined up for when I do my bushes.
    I am happy to compensate you for it of course.
    Have a think about it.
     
  7. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    #32 Ferrarium, Jun 21, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2020
    No actually i do not have CAD for it he made it beskpoke on the spot, but I can make a cad diagram for them easily no charge. Been using CAD and doing CNC for 10 years. Yep the bush pressed right out and right in damage or marring. What format do you want the cad files in? Actually I have a few cad file for thing I have made maybe I will put them on the site.

    Like these https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-seat-base-tilting.587357/
    Like these https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/updated-gauge-trim-rings.597806/
    Like these https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/radiator-shroud-project.611147/

    and a few other things
     
  8. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Quick update, it looks strange driving with the front end up, so used to it overly raked. Looked awful, freaking looks dynamite now, still have to dial it in and put 15mm spacers in the rear but...

    so previously my shocks has the from saddler the same threaded height on the shock but one side was 1/4 lower. I took them off as you you know, did some math with the height I want and adjusted them both identical. Put them back on, slip marked all the bolts etc then took a it for a spin to settle. Pulled into the garage and low and behold both sides are identical height. Now I need to set the back again as the weights changes with the front end up. Then adjust them all around for -7mm from factory height on all 4 corners. Then I have to align it using plates and camber gauge. I am expecting I will have to shim for neg camber. Will post it when I am done, this turned out to be a suspension thread not a wheel thread pretty quick didn't it.

    Anyhow I am not alone I am dead sure this condition is prevalent. I will be doing rear shock bushings in the winter. :)
     
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  9. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

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    Oh that would be great, just a .dwg should be fine, accompanied with a pdf for easy reference....
    Thanks, I’ll check out the links here too...
    If you want to PM me we can do a drop box or google drive transfer as I imagine the file will be fairly large....
    Thanks again!!
     
  10. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Here is how you compress the fronts without taking the shock out, 2 compressors of different kinds. 2 pictures of each from different angles.

    Car is getting close, I can't do any more as my garage floor is not level at all, I got it close, I need to lower the front a tad but I need a level surface and accurate measurements at this point. I may drive to the work garage (adjust toe first) as its 8 levels of poured concrete, certainly better than my garage, I get different measurements backing in and going in front ways. Get measurements then adjust coils again.

    Then I need to check camber it is reading 1.85 and 2.0 and then I need to check toe again with plates to get it close then drive to a shop for final height adjustments and alignment.

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  11. Ferrarium

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    Getting closer, I had to pull car out of garage for solar install so I figured I'd snap a pic. Rear is a bit low I think, but I need to drive to work to use concrete slab parking garage to get measurements, my garage floor is just too uneven it varies 3/4 inch from side to side.

    Man the stakes look great.
     

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  12. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

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    Looks very similar to mine now, I think your there......maybe verify on your level floor and you're good to go!!
     
  13. WATSON

    WATSON Two Time F1 World Champ
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    How did you do the front end alignment?

    It is something I would like to check and / or adjust on my own versus taking it in....
     
  14. Hubs348

    Hubs348 Karting

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    Looks great! Nice work and thread. Thanks Eric
     
  15. Ferrarium

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    That is a great question actually and it is pretty easy to DIY spot check and adjust toe or even front camber. If I recall 1mm shim = 1/2 degree. I have Tenhulzen toe/camber plates. If I had a level floor, the adjustment of the camber shims is pretty easy (it affects toe for the rear also). Front toe is very easy.
    I have yet to hear anyone who lowered the rear where a show adjusted the rear shims and I only went down 6mm front went up almost an inch. Pretty sure front toe in is needs adjustment back out some. What I will do will get the toe close to neutral to prevent tire scrubbing then take it in for toe adjustment mainly because my floor is so freaking uneven I have zero chance of getting it right. If I had a 4 post lift I would do the whole thing. I had 4 wheel alignment done at the most expensive Indie ship in the NE last spring and they made no shim adjustments btw.

    There is millions of diy alignment videos out there, for example .
    I was at a Rolex sports car race in Phoenix years ago and in the pits the teams were tuning alignment with string and plates in the paddock. Pretty sure the alignment machines just make it faster and easier for passenger cars. I can't count the aliments I have had over the years with tire changes or on wifes mini van when when I drove out the car tracked worse and the steering wheel was crooked. My guy in Scottsdale that used to do it for me worked at Audi Scottsdale, he did it all manually to correct what the machines did. After that I just went to him for every car. Remember machines don't align cars people do, most suck.

    Actually my rear looks lower because I am on a slope with parking brake on. On level ground it spears 1/8 in higher than rear looking at fender arches compared to that picture. I will get the stance amazing and and still drive able to avoid scraping like I was doing, when I do I will post the geometry using factory measuring points.
     
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  16. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    Got to get it in for alignment at Ferrari service. Here is the specs before they started, notice the front toe I circled, that was done on may garage floor that is not level with camber plates. I started out with 3/16 toe before I adjusted to prevent tire scrubbing driving to alignment shop. Not bad huh, first time no less. Notice the ride height. Yes I know that not "Exactly" where the factory says to measure I was trying to see a variance between sides using the same spot I marked with paint marker ahead of alignment. So in my case with new shock bushings, front coil overs set to the same height side to side and rear coil overs set to the same height side to side, the ride height is dead nuts. rear is 6mm too high to match factory rake so I will adjusts rears a god-dam-gain. My kingdom for a damn level floor! ha ha.

    On my garage floor all corners are different heights with coil-overs identical height so I was convinced my car was in an accident and had chassis damage not reported to insurance. For 2 weeks I have been panicking. Turns out floor has to be 100% level which makes sense as wheels will sit higher or lower (my floor is 1/2 off side off side btw) but it it turns out my chassis is actually straight as an arrow my uneven floor was throwing measurements off. Yet I still set toe accurately with old school plates.

    The height adjustments did affect the rear far more than I thought so they reset camber thrust and toe. Dives so good and with the Spirax GB oil its a joy. I need to adjust the rear down just a scoche then I will post pics and the final measurements for others in case anyone cares or ever needs to know or has questions on 348 ride height and 18's "slightly lowered". Its roughly 7mm lower than the factory setting.
     

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  17. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

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    Thanks for taking the time to follow this up, I find it very interesting, and a reminder I need to send my car in for alignment too. I have too much negative camber on my car and its much lower than standard.
    However it does drive extremely well on the limit the way it is..
     
  18. Ferrarium

    Ferrarium F1 Veteran
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    I went for oem specs with the exception of 1/2 degree less as the max on the rear and on front trend towards lower end of spec. This is because I plan on driving extensively on the highway is all. Here is my every so slightly modified specs with some notes.

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