cant work out camshaft timig.

That dont sound correct to me, sorry i dont have the cam timing settings for the 2.0L. You cannot alter the cam timing if the following is done

Get #no3 in its firing phase and the mark on the crankshaft set at TDC. check all four timing grooves on the camshafts and cam caps at the front. They MUST all line up perfectly.

You have fitted the cams correctly, ie "S" equals exhaust and "A" equals Intake. They have a stamp about halfway up. Sorry if it sounds obvious. DO NOT TRY TO START ENGINE UNLESS YOU ARE 100% SURE ITS OK.

Tony

 

I would ask Jim Selevan on this ...he has helped me a 1000x on this and explains it well. I had to re torque my heads after a rebuild and it was a real pain. Jim was able to explain it in such a way as to make it less painful. As Tony said DO NOT start until you are sure that everything is correct. It can be done...good luck!

 

Are the timing chains on their sprokets with the timing chain tensioner set right?
Kevin

 

Do you have some reason(s) to not believe the specs given in the Dino 206 26/68 OM page 30?

Intake opens 40 deg BTDC
Intake closes 52 deg ABDC
Exhaust opens 53 deg BBDC
Exhaust closes 31 deg ATDC

How are you defining the "open" and "close" events? If you are (wrongly) using "first and last motion of the bucket/shim when at the operating clearance", that might give you roughly the numbers that you are reporting (if that crazy "81" is really a "61" ).

 

Someone at FAF motorcars told me a long time ago ,when installing a new chain, to put the timing marks slightly to the inside of the cam cap marks so as the new chain wears in and stretches a little it is moving to the correct position. Sounded like good advice to me.

 

Yes, that's one physical way that works just fine to make the measurement per the specification (and is probably the least confusing way to explain it to someone else), but the specification is really a mathematical expression for using a location on the cam lobe that is operationally 0.5mm above the minimum base circle of the lobe itself. The downside IMO to using the "set the physical clearance to 0.5mm and then the open and close locations correspond to detecting any motion of the bucket/shim" method is that you need an assortment of sort of oddball shims. Post #2 in this thread:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328/225031-checking-setting-308-cam-timing.html

describes how to find the exact same location on the cam lobe that corresponds operationally to 0.5mm above the minimum base circle of the lobe, but leaves the valve clearances at their operating values with the operating shims in place.

 

be careful what you do when you set the cams, you only have about 1.5mm clearance on the exhaust valve, use timing marks on caps and cams, open and closing you only need to check if you race your engine

 

Exactly, why are you all trying to complicate matters. That's why you have marks on the cams &cam caps.

 

maybe some pictures would help, it is one thing to know what to do or what the book says, quite another to try to imagine what has been done.

 

Bertspeed.
That is a lot, its far to complicated to use a cam degree wheel and complete waste of time for what you are doing. Its interesting to do it and you are now wiser because of it but thats why you have the cam marks, it all been done for you

Use these marks on the cams and covers and make adjustments using the sprocket vernier holes. You need to make sure both pins are in place as the cam sprocket will move if only one is in position. Its is tempting to leave the 2nd one out because you either hit lucky first time or really struggle to find one that lines up. Keep rotating the sprocket untill you do find both holes that fit, torgue up & use new tab washers when you refit.

You can get new pins etc from Superformance UK.

Cheers

Tony

206 / 246 CYLINDER HEAD Superformance ferrari dino ferrari v6 ferrari v12 specialists 308 246 206 fiat dino 355 328

 

Sorry i dont have any otherwise i would )

i am sure there may be threads somewhere on the 246 section which show these. A search may reveal something.

 

How do you hold the camshaft to tighten the sprocket bolt?

 

I use fairly thick note paper, cut it roughly 2" x 2" pieces, then fold it in half in order to double the thickness, I would have to measure the total overall thickness of the paper, but it ends up being slight more than the oil clearance between the cam and cam cap, maybe .004-005". I then loosen two bearing caps on each cam and insert the paper between the cap and the cam in two places on each cam. Then tighten down the bearing caps until then cams are clamped. This is enough to torque the sprocket bolts to spec.

 

use a airgun, never tried the above suggestion but two molegrips work (not on the lobes though! )

 

Here is the modified socket I made to turn the cam. I used something like a matchbook cover clamped at the last cam journal opposite the cam wheel. Not too much clamping is needed. I tried vice-grips with heat shrink tubing over the jaws but it was awkward and still marked the cam.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Here is the flat bar I ground to fit the chain wheel. It lays across the head and fits in the chain wheel so you can torque the bolt. I kept it in place and torqued the other bolt.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I'm paranoid of dropping the little pins into the engine.
Anyone have suggestions?

 

Try post 6 in https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/cylinder-head-removal.228842/
I made and used this simple tool with success.
Kevin

 

The tool is perfect for removing those pins and works on the car (engine in) except exhaust 1-3, the chassis is in the way and you need to make a smaller one.

I use a polyester cloth and wrap it around the cam apertures to stop the pins dropping into the cam cover

Tony

 

Nice tool. I always used a spark plug with the small aluminum cap nut removed. Correct thread and pitch.

 

Ingenious