83 Boxer major engine and overall resto | Page 2 | FerrariChat

83 Boxer major engine and overall resto

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Ludwig, Dec 7, 2016.

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  1. JLF

    JLF Formula 3
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    Thank you!
     
  2. Enzo Belair

    Enzo Belair Formula 3

    Jul 27, 2004
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    Ludwig I'm totally impressed with the amount of work you are doing on the car yourself. All is looking amazing, please keep the thread going I would personally love to see your progress.
     
  3. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
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    Ok, some progress and an" interesting" discovery.
    I finished the refresh of the spark plug tubes and replated all the misc throttle linkage etc. The heads are just about ready to be reinstalled.
    I've finished most of the installation of the differential carrier ( Newman's) and have set up the appropriate back lash and pre load with a pretty good cruise/coast pattern. The carrier is a beautiful piece and pretty much nuts on. I did not have to change the L side shim and gives me about .0035" back lash. The specs are .12-.17 mm which is roughly .003- .004".
    With the correct preload i am going to have to add another R side shim + .45mm, i currently have a .45mm in place. So i am looking to source either a .90 or a .45. Does anyone have a reasonably priced source? I am purchasing a surface grinder in the near future but not inthe shop yet.
    As to the" suprise", the engine had been rebuilt about 12 y ago with new pistons and a new liner by the local Ferrari guru. Now as i was replacing some fasteners and checking torques i found that one of the m10 case studs had been stripped. A bad chocolate in Newman's "box".
    So a couple of strayegies not involving splittong of the case-
    It turns out that there is about 10mm of untapped depth to the current hole. I should also be able to safely deepen another 5 mm which would be more than the original thread. Then a longer stud to give be the correct protrusion.
    Alternatively, i could helicoil but thi would require enlarging the id of the hole for access.
    I' ll try the tapping 1st.
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  4. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    for the thread I would not use helicoil, take time-sert, much better. but you have to take the 2 halfs of the block apart :( but then it will be perfect

    you are sure that you may use 0,45 mm thicker shim for the correct preload? this is nearly a half mm and when so much is missing the diff will move from left to right and the pattern can not be tested because of this moving. I think you mean 0.045 mm?
     
  5. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    I would bite the dust, split the case and do a proper repair using a insert. You are running a high risk removing the stud bolts without splitting the case anyway, so this was an incident waiting to happen. Nice new differential installation!

    Best Peter
     
  6. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

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    I am talking about the R side case shim-not the bearing race shim. The pattern looks good with the stock L side shim and everything tightened down. In order to get the correct preload I have to add .45 to the R side. The current shim is .45 thus a total of .90 mm on the passenger side case. This then gives me a good pattern, backlash of about .15mm and proper preload. I just need to find a reasonably price shim or manufacture it.
     
  7. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
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    I believe you are correct , I'm probably going to split the case and repair it properly.
     
  8. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Tapping it deeper with grease on the tap could work. Especially if the whole doesn't open to the crankcase. Someone reported Mopar diff shims work?
     
  9. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

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    yes -the dana 60 but this is for the bearing race shim which I don't need- it's the R case shim that looks like a metal gasket that I am looking for.
    I am still torn about the thread repair. As I have gone this far... it may not take too long to really repair it correctly-thinking about it.
     
  10. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    I might have one, what size do you need?
     
  11. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

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    I need a total of .90mm I have a .45 so either an additional .45 or .90
     
  12. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    Yeah, I remember those nuts having a torque of 90 lbs, so it needs to be in correctly. Work is coming along nicely. Too bad having to fix other folks ham-handed work. Some supposed professional or shadetree mechanics can just be gorillas.
     
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  13. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
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    the specification for the 10 mm nuts is 6.6 KgM and when I simply checked the torque the previously stripped stud became evident. Now there have been about 1000 mi on the engine since that time so I guess it is of limited structural import but it is not right. I think I have to do a formal repair. The mechanic who did the original rebuild has a great reputation but it seems I ended up cleaning up all kinds of problems -Oh well.
     
  14. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    Aluminum needs to be treated carefully. The torque specs are important or you can damage the treads, unfortunately.

    You will be happy knowing all the little things have been resolved. These are the issues so many older cars have and folks never, ever know about. Makes you feel good when it's done.
     
  15. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
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    I split the case and did the proper repair with the True Sert system it really results in a great repair. This also gave me the opportunity to inspect the crank/bearings etc. Overall I'm very happy with the state of affairs all seems to be in pristine condition.
    The Pistons had been replaced years ago and this gave me a chance to inspect. Bores are all standard 82mm and look great- round and consistent to .0005".
    The pistons were manufactured by JE Pistons in California and are 3 ring.
    This also shows the design problem with the 14 mm bolts for the case halves. The ones that are on the top of the engine are in little "wells" that would act like little birdbaths if there is water from washing. If this is not dried promptly then water can potentially run down the bolt and result in corrosion-note the slight rusting that I then cleaned up.-I'm adding sealant at the washers and nut to perhaps mitigate this in the future.

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  16. dwhite

    dwhite F1 Rookie

    Excellent work. Your car will be outstanding.
     
  17. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Are you using Loctitie 5** sealant on cases? Can't remember the #
     
  18. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    Great work. Appreciate your updates. You will sleep well now!

    Best Peter
     
  19. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

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    Loctite 518. I finished torquing al bolts, reassembling con rod caps and torqued con rod bolts- requires some degree of dexterity.
    Now just waiting for my order of o-rings and oil seals to come in and will button up the engine.
     
  20. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
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    I am making good progress on the engine reassembly and have found a total of 5 studs that had been stripped- The latest and I certainly hope the last was one of the tensioner studs which I repaired.
    I am waiting on various hoses -GT parts say there "in the mail" from Italy -but it was August after all:)

    I'm trying to decide the best finish for the air induction plenums from the CIS to the throttle body assembly- These were not painted but I suspect would look good polished.
    I'll verify valve timing later this week.
    I have a new York ac compressor that is a direct bolt on and very close to original- I just can't see the outrageous cost for the true Italian licensed product. It also has slightly more pump displacement and perhaps I can get some reasonable function.
    The heat shields need to be refabricated as mine was badly scratched along with the bending of the hanger brackets- all since repaired.
    I will be ordering the felt for the front compartment soon and I should be able to button up the front end.


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  21. Enzo Belair

    Enzo Belair Formula 3

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    Looking fantastic Ludwig, nice progress.
     
  22. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
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    Time to refresh this thread, Its kind of amazing what some time off from work does for you.
    I have been able to make a major push and start the reassembly of all components with the exception of the interior where I decided all leather needs to be re-dyed and as such, I have removed all trim components and am in the process of refinishing them. The seats came out spectacularly well and the original leather was in excellent shape. The new dye from Letherique was a perfect match and they really look as new.

    The engine is re-installed and I am now fussing over all little details such as hose clamp orientation and correct routing of all components. I refreshed some of the original p clamps by zinc yellow chromate which I am able to do at home-look great. I can't seem to find new ones in yellow chromate.
    I re-felted the "trunk" components and have refinished the wheel wells with as good a sloppy orange peel as I could get. Headers that were ceramic coated got wrapped in the region of the half shaft boots to replace the old heat shield design.
    The CIS distributors were gone through by a local individual who put together a great test bench and has the original Bosch test equipment to perfectly calibrate the distributors as well as the WURs. Very OCD and got them virtually perfect -better than the spec tolerances.
    As soon as I get the dashboard back in and tidy the wiring harness should be able to fire it up.
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  23. pshoejberg

    pshoejberg Formula 3
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    It's all looking great Ludwig! You are about to catch up with me though so I need to sharpen up....-:)

    Best, Peter
     
  24. John B

    John B Formula 3

    May 27, 2003
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    Nice!
    Get that baby running again
     
  25. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
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    Some ongoing progress,
    I'm finalizing the wiring harness and have the ac components all connected and replaced as indicated. I replaced the compressor with a York very close match but slightly higher displacement. Will be 134a system. The dryer has somewhat different port placement and had to replace, remake lines. Now holding excellent vac.
    I remade the body pan using the old one to template te rivit holes then installed.
    The interior is mostly reassembled.
    Cooling system is all connected and I will be using Evans waterless coolant.
    Should be ready for its battery and then careful firing up.
     

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