All: Having recently acquired my F430 Spider from Dan L / Whatheheck, I've decided to do the first annual myself, for the most part, so that I can learn the car really well. I also intend to do a very thorough deep-clean with the wheels and under-trays off, etc. I don't want to find myself waiting for parts because I didn't anticipate properly, so I'm hoping y'all can help me eyeball this list and tell me what I may be missing (or if you think I've made a bad selection). Engine Oil Change - I'll get the Oil Change kit with filter & crush washers. There's also an O-ring for the Filter-Screen. (If the screen looks clear and there are no signs of leaks, I'll probably leave it alone). I'll order 12 qts of Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40. For the Gearbox Flush - I was tempted to use the Redline MTL, but there's a lot of contradictory talk on this forum about whether one needs the Friction Modifier added to it. I think I'll order 3 qts of the Valvoline SynPower 75w-90, as it seems most are happy with it? I'll be sure to check & clean the screen filter. Regarding the Engine Air Filters. Dan L replaced them with the BMC filters about a year ago. I don't know if these are a reuseable-type filter, so I'll dive into them. He sent me the OEM filters he removed (brand new) but the air filters look easy enough to access, I'd probably order some replacement BMC filters if they need replacing. The Cabin Air Filter - They're really proud of the OEM unit (65384300). If anyone is aware of a better or just-as-good-but-cheaper unit, I'm all ears. For the Brake-Flush - I'll use the ATE 200 SuperBlue. It's cheapest to order 4 liters, and I'll use it over the next several years. I already own a Motive Power Bleeder, which should do a fine job, I'd think. I'll also be installing new rotors / pads and some braided-steel lines that Dan sent to me with the car. F1 hydraulic system - was flushed less than a year ago. My understanding as a newcomer is that this also encompasses the E-Diff fluid, yeas? I'll want to check the level, top-off if necessary. But there's SO much info, and I can't seem to find a concensus: Pentosin CHF-11S? Tutella CS? Dexron Vi? I'd love some input here. What will mix best with the "Spirax Synth F1" that it was flushed with? Power Steering fluid - It looks like most common best-practice here is to swap-out most of the fluid in the reservoir at every service, keeping the fluid new-ish. Again; what will mix best with the "Spirax S2" that it was filled with a year ago? Engine Coolant - was drained / flushed / refilled 13 months ago. However: the car has now moved to an environment where freezing weather is not uncommon. The car will be stored in a climate-controlled environment, but climate-control-failure is not unheard of during power-outages, sever storms, etc etc. So I'll probably flush and replace with new, to be safe. I see some have been using Honda coolant, and some have been using the Zerex G-05 Phosphate free. Any other recommendations here? Preferences? While I'm under the car I'll obviously be inspecting / re-torquing fasteners, suspension / steering parts, etc. etc. The only thing really remaining in my mind is the Timing-Chain wear inspection. I just crossed 43k miles, so it's due. My workshop manual makes no reference, and I'm not finding any threads here about that. Maybe I'm using the wrong search words? Can anyone direct me to the procedure? Is there anything else I'm missing that oughtta get done, or checked / inspected? Thanks in advance. I'm excited to tie-into this. I'm going to clean everything whether it's visible or not..... it'll look and feel like a new car driving down the road when I'm done.
If you like I can PM my number to review this all in a phone conversation .. then gather other thoughts from members and then choose what suits you ..some have multiple answer and we can go into on the phone Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
I would recommend against using the Blue-dyed version of the fluid. It will stain the plastic reservoir. And I don't believe you can buy it anymore in the US anyway... Stick with the gold version of it (ATE TYP 200). It is the same without the dye. Buy pack of 4 for less than $60 on Amazon...
If you don’t already have an oil filter cap wrench I recommend going to the classifieds and picking up the Hill Engineering one that’s available. I bought mine a few days ago otherwise I would have picked that one up. None of my other dozen oil filter wrenches worked. I spent many hours going through everyone’s fluid recommendations and here’s what I needed up ordering: - Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40 from Amazon. Didn’t have the Ferrari logo but not concerned over that given the annual 2K mile or less oil changes. - Motul RBF 600 brake fluid. - Zerex G05 coolant. I’ll be changing coolant every other year. - Redline 75W-90 NS for the gearbox. Every two years. - Tutela CS Speed 75W for the F1 system. Every two years. - Mobil 1 112980-UNIT Synthetic ATF for the power steering system. Every two years. Mine will all be complete flushes using the Launch X431 for brakes and F1 fluid and the Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker for the coolant.
Might I suggest you "nut and bolt "the suspension , inspect your wipers ,and most importantly... treat all the body seals in order to keep them soft and pliable. The last suggestion helps to prevent water leaks and wind noise over the long term. Enjoy getting intimate with your Ferrari! S
Great suggestions. What do you treat the body seals with? We're talking weather stripping, yes? Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Here are some to look into ... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
Nut & Bolt means loosen each suspension point / fastener and re-torque to spec Body seals / gaskets are the rubber gaskets that seal the doors, hatch, trunk, top if its a convertible, etc. They need to be treated at least once a year. Gummi Pfledge in the above example is a great retail option! ( Ferrari gives us a high doller per oz option! ) Steve Added example photos of body seals.. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
One I got to mention to you when we spoke was " consider changing all the bolts that hold up the underpanel ..usually some are missing and some get a little rusty.. replace with nice stainless steel bolts and washers Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk
I'm late to this thread, but if you need an less expensive alternative to the factory cabin filter 65384300, I sell a German made alternative that even has activated charcoal for odor reduction, and about half the cost of what the dealer charges. Not sure the rules are about linking my "for sale" listing on this forum, but I have them for for sale in the appropriate forum here, and you can search the factory part # on Ebay for my listing.
Do you know the thread / pitch of these underpanel bolts? Especially the hex-head countersunk bolts at the upper edge of the diffuser? I'm going to be replacing all of the hardware, I think. Do y'all use antseize on these?
I do the transaxle in my 360 every year. The oil gets pretty cooked between the cats. Also, check the cables at the alternator. On 360's anyway, they tend to loosen up causing corrosion etc. HTH
Here is an article which describes the sizes etc https://aldousvoice.com/2014/04/08/ferrari-f430-rear-undertray/ You can use an anti seize or white lithium .. i prefer to use a little blue loctite since the vibrations cause these to fall out sometimes Sent from my moto g(7) using Tapatalk