Spider Top Cylinder Replacement | FerrariChat

Spider Top Cylinder Replacement

Discussion in '360/430' started by IDriveM5, Aug 11, 2014.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. IDriveM5

    IDriveM5 F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2012
    2,675
    Central Ohio
    Full Name:
    Raj
    #1 IDriveM5, Aug 11, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 17, 2014
    Hey Fellas,
    First, big thanks to Mark Ptolomey for offering his advice on this matter.

    My '01 360 Spider has a small leak in the Spider Top Cylinder. This piece is essentially an aluminum rectangular housing with a forked / pinned piston at one side, and hydraulic supply and return lines on the opposite side. I believe this cylinder assembly controls the action of the spider top latches, and is located in the leading edge of the headliner of the top.

    I've been working with my mechanic to source a replacement part for this product, but it has been hard to come by and is a bit pricey. So, Mark kindly pointed me to the following company:
    Cabriolet Hydraulics - Products - Convertible Top Cylinders
    (non-sponsor link, apologies in advance to mods and others if that is not allowed).

    My question is this: Can anyone else report back on rebuilt spider top cylinders? Specifically, the quality of the refurb part, ease or difficulty of removal/replacement, and longevity of the refurb part?

    So far, I am hearing good things, but I wanted to open this up to the community for some additional feedback. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. MPtolomey

    MPtolomey Formula Junior

    Jun 8, 2014
    538
    Odessa, FL
    Full Name:
    Mark Ptolomey
    As mentioned,

    I used them to rebuild the cylinder on my R230 (SL55), which is the exact same part! That cylinder has lived through the heat and cycles of 5 years of hard use throughout FL & TX with no issues.

    I also installed one in my 360 just a few days after I took delivery. (Fortunately I caught the leak early before the oil destroyed the rubber seals of the top) The leak was missed with the PPI and the dealer service!!

    I highly recommend this route and also using the couplers (quick connects) as it eliminated the need to dismantle the top and interior as the line connections are at the pump. I estimate that it saved me at least 5 hours of labor (probably more).

    So far no issues....

    Ps. I would love to know what Ferrari would charge to R&R this part, I'm thinking about 3K??
     
  3. IDriveM5

    IDriveM5 F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2012
    2,675
    Central Ohio
    Full Name:
    Raj
    Thanks Mark for your input on the subject. I am hopeful we'll hear from other members as well!
    :)
     
  4. MPtolomey

    MPtolomey Formula Junior

    Jun 8, 2014
    538
    Odessa, FL
    Full Name:
    Mark Ptolomey
    #4 MPtolomey, Aug 12, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  5. IDriveM5

    IDriveM5 F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2012
    2,675
    Central Ohio
    Full Name:
    Raj
    Thanks Mark. Wow, nobody else has any input on this subject?!?
     
  6. Stout

    Stout Formula Junior

    May 9, 2013
    259
    Helotes, TX
    Full Name:
    Victor
  7. rsmerin

    rsmerin Rookie

    Sep 28, 2012
    16
    Hong Kong
    Hi Stout - did you cut the lines to your old cyclinder, sent off to them and re-install using a 'hyraulic hose repair coupler' from their company too?

    I have 5 cyclinders that have developed a leak (not sure why they all went around the same time). It's numbers 3,4,5,8,9 from the Service manual. 6 and 7 seem ok.

    I was hoping to disconnect these myself and send off for refurb but i'm not comfortable unrouting all of the hyraulic lines from the car.
     
  8. Stout

    Stout Formula Junior

    May 9, 2013
    259
    Helotes, TX
    Full Name:
    Victor
    The folding cylinder, number 5 in my case, has removable hydraulic lines. So no, I did not cut and splice these lines. Not even sure if that is possible. FYI, no problems with the rebuild.

    I know this company can build these lines. Maybe there is a splice kit available. Keep us updated. If they have them in stock, I wonder if there is an exchange program so you can remove and replace these parts right away.
     
  9. PATLEW

    PATLEW Formula 3

    Dec 3, 2007
    1,004
    Marvin /Waxhaw
    Full Name:
    Patrick Lewandowski
    unfortunately the fittings are pressed in making it difficult to do a self repair. As you see in the photo of the part it fishes through the entire top making it such an expensive fix. I looked at the replacing mine but choose to just add fluid. Part was $1200 and estimate of $1800 to repair it at the dealership. I love convertibles but after two I now have a coupe. I have been reading that the California is starting to have issues with its top now.
     
  10. MPtolomey

    MPtolomey Formula Junior

    Jun 8, 2014
    538
    Odessa, FL
    Full Name:
    Mark Ptolomey
    All,

    Cabriolet Hydraulics has a splice kit. I have used it on my 360 front cylinder which made it a piece of cake to replace. You would simply cut the lines with a razor blade (sounds scary) send the part off for rebuild (which is to better standards than stock) which is approximately $50. The splice kit (couplers) are $25/each and they have them in 2 sizes.

    Cabriolet Hydraulics is the designer/manufacturer of the coupler (patent pending). Mine installed easily and has not leaked at all. As I have mentioned, it turned an all day job which would have been almost 3K at the stealer to a job that took me about an hour to R&R at a total cost of a little over $100.

    I'm NOT affiliated with this company in any way, just passing on usable information to fellow enthusiasts. I apologize if I have disclosed one of the stealer secrets as I know they have supplied many of the independent dealers/shops with their parts.
     
  11. IDriveM5

    IDriveM5 F1 Rookie

    Jul 2, 2012
    2,675
    Central Ohio
    Full Name:
    Raj
    I basically did what Mark did as well, since he helped me with my process. So far, so good for me!
    The refurb kit came with two "quick connect" couplers for the hydraulic supply and return lines in the headliner of the top.
     
  12. Stout

    Stout Formula Junior

    May 9, 2013
    259
    Helotes, TX
    Full Name:
    Victor
    Well there you go. Cut, rebuild, and splice back together. The cylinder rebuild the place I used was more than $200, so Cabriolet Hydraulics may be the way to go.
     
  13. MPtolomey

    MPtolomey Formula Junior

    Jun 8, 2014
    538
    Odessa, FL
    Full Name:
    Mark Ptolomey
    The larger cylinders are a little more, but they are very reasonable.
     
  14. Stryker1808

    Stryker1808 Rookie

    Jul 10, 2015
    40
    Hi all,

    I'm having problems with the hydraulics on my 360 Spider (2001). I've been told i need part # 66454700.

    - Is Cabriolet Hydraulics still the most cost efffective solution?
    - using couplers to go with it?
    - how much for each hydraulics?

    Thanks,
     
  15. Slow poke

    Slow poke Rookie

    Jan 25, 2011
    33
    Miami, FL
    Full Name:
    Mark
    #15 Slow poke, Nov 28, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2016
    Yes, they are the best solution for cylinder repair using the couplers. I would suggest you also do the LH & RH secondary top cylinders while you are at it. They are easy to remove and do not require cutting the hydraulic hoses since they have two small screws to take off. The secondary cylinders usually fail as well and make an oily mess. They only take about 30 minutes or less to remove each one. Total cost should be about $250 for three cylinders to repair. Just did mine and saved a lot of money!
     
  16. DanNE

    DanNE Formula Junior

    Jun 7, 2013
    596
    Sorry for the 4-6 year old reply everybody --- I'm looking for a rebuild of the 360 front cylinder and I saw that this is the same part as the SL or SLK cylinders? Yet when talking to Top Hydraulics and Cabriolet Hydraulics they are telling me that these are different parts?

    Anybody know for sure? I was surprised to see the 360 cylinder rebuild is $260 and the SLK (?) cylinder rebuild is $60 so what gives?
     
  17. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 8, 2005
    1,728
    Canada, Florida
    Full Name:
    Fred
    Ferrari tax, perhaps ;)
     
    robertjskelton likes this.
  18. DanNE

    DanNE Formula Junior

    Jun 7, 2013
    596
    Yes but this would happen primarily at the OEM/dealer channel rather than aftermarket parts and service? :) I would find it surprising if the rebuilders charged different costs for the same part depending on which car it went into?
     
  19. 360fly

    360fly Rookie

    Sep 4, 2015
    6
    Canada
    Full Name:
    Kevin
    Nothing like jumping in on old blogs. I have just taken my 2001 360 spyder out of winter storage, went to fold the top back and found the dreaded leak at the windshield, dripping hydraulic fluid. I called the local Stealers, they had never heard of it. Well long story short I won't let their green guy learn on my car at $200/hr. Can anyone tell me how to do a step by step to get the cylinders out of the car? I am thinking that even though I only have one leaking I should get all 6 rebuilt, thoughts?
     
  20. mwstewart

    mwstewart F1 Rookie

    Feb 5, 2014
    2,625
    England
    Full Name:
    Mark
    Great info, thank you.
     
  21. DanNE

    DanNE Formula Junior

    Jun 7, 2013
    596
    I replied this in the PM as well..

    I have no idea how to remove all cylinders...I hear there are 7 of them in the car with the most critical being the front one and the two side cylinders above where the window closes at the top in the roof rails.

    My front one is leaking -- Cabriolet Hydraulics recommended I send the 3 front ones but from the instructions I gathered the top has to be in different locations when removing the front one versus the two side ones. So I'm doing the front one first - it's quite easy, you start to open the top and the first front flap folds backwards onto the middle flap. At that point you stop the mechanism, get out of the car and there is a trim piece that just snaps in across the entire width of the convertible top. If you take this out gently you will see the cylinder in question.

    The biggest problem is removing the E-clip between the cylinder piston connector and the gear mechanism that drives all the latches. I had to buy a dentist kit since there is no slack to get any small screwdriver in there and got it out.

    I cut the lines and sent the cylinder to Top Hydraulics because I think they have better pricing; will use the Cabriolet guys' reconnect kit (on EBay).

    Haven't gotten the part back yet but will post when I do.
     
    hessank likes this.
  22. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 8, 2005
    1,728
    Canada, Florida
    Full Name:
    Fred
    Thank you Dan
    My top is working at 100% at this time so I think I'm gonna do some preventative maintenance and replace the front one when I am away from the car later in the year.
    Then I will do the other two. Please post when you get to those two. I haven't looked to see where those other front ones are.

    Much appreciated. Thanks for sharing!
     
  23. kingrooz

    kingrooz Rookie

    Feb 22, 2017
    16
    California
    Full Name:
    Sasha
    Hi All,

    Regarding the secondary cylinders ( i.e. one on each side), is there an easy way to remove the pin on the cylinder fork end without ( #2) removing the canvas top?
    As you can see from the picture the pin (pin #2) needs to moved towards the frame to release the fork but there is not enough space so it needs to be lifted up somehow.
    Removing the pin in front ( pin #1) is easy as it slides out with no issues.
    I think it was mentioned that each side cylinder can be removed in 30min so I was wondering if there is any shortcut for pin #2 removal?

    Thanks,
     

    Attached Files:

    hessank likes this.
  24. hessank

    hessank Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 8, 2005
    1,728
    Canada, Florida
    Full Name:
    Fred
  25. EastMemphis

    EastMemphis Formula 3
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    May 25, 2019
    1,719
    Memphis, TN
    Full Name:
    John
    #25 EastMemphis, Nov 21, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2020
    The secondary cylinders are EXTREMELY easy to remove. Pull off the plate (you've done that) that sits in front of the pin and the pin literally slides out. Note the number of threads until the lock nut (return to that position when reinstalling), loosen the nut (12mm?) and the fork unscrews once you have the cylinder freed from the top and the lines disconnected. No need to do anything except stop the top right after the front forks deploy.

    I see you already have the plate off in the second picture. Just push the rod out from the back. That's it. The cylinder swings free and you can spin it to unscrew it from the fork. Leave the fork in the car. Remove the lines prior to removing the pin as the little nuts that hold in the lines are hellaciously torqued. You can kind of gently turn the lines a bit to get to the nut. I used a stubby wrench to do that and could get under the line. No stubby? Just turn the line a bit.

    Before you operate the top after refitting the secondary cylinders, be sure the reservoir is topped off or you may drain the tank. I prefilled my replacements with fluid so I wouldn't have to go through that step. If your res is already too low, then it wouldn't matter.
     

Share This Page