P1530 on a 360 - has anyone fixed it or made the tool you need to remove the solenoid

yea, i fixed it.

i made a tool myself.
the factory tool doesn't work when the engine is in-situ. It is too big and there ain't enough room for it.
The tool in the photograph you posted isn't the factory tool I got. I suppose the tool in the photo would work but I never got one from the dealer( i used to borrow tools from dealers)

just machine a socket yourself.

 

Returning to your description of the car at tick-over being "lumpy"......

That solenoid only gets activated when the revs are above a certain level, so at tick-over it should not be doing anything to the exhaust cam.

 

Coil packs?

 

I actually went out and bought a big-ol socket for this job that if I need to do it I'm going to grind it down with a dremel to make it fit on the socket and then machine it down as needed.

 

First off, the solenoid is probably unavailable right now. You can get to the solenoid, but you have to pull to the side the power steering pump and the water pump. The space between the solenoid and the head is very tight, and the socket to remove is around a 33mm. The special tool is almost a requirement, and it will take a breaker bar. The special tool is like a O2 sensor socket due to the wire/connector. It's possible to have the tool made, but you won't be able to make it before hand.
If you have a Scan Tool, select Camshaft Reference Angle Relative to Estimated PMS (Desired) and Exhaust Electric Fuse Angle (Actual) and they should be the same as you rev the engine, any difference will set the code. I may have those two (actual and desired) reversed. The ECM commands the solenoid and than has a feedback signal to see if it actually happened.
Before you go through the agony, make sure your oil is at the proper level and you have good oil pressure. The system is operated by oil and if it is low, the system will not operate properly.
One last thing, the Phaser has a locking pin which locks the Phaser at shutdown. At start up, oil pressure unlocks the pin to allow movement of the Phaser. If the pin is not locking at shutdown or it's slow to unlock after start up that would require you to replace the Phaser.
As you can see, regular oil changes are important as any varnish in the system will affect operation. At a minimum, once a year or 5K miles. Also proper wt (5-40) and the correct spec (Ferrari approved). Both Penzoil and Valvoline are Ferrari spec.

 

I have one of the original tools in stock. The biggest problem with it is the manufacturing process leaves the flanks very (too?) thin.

 

I had the tool made by a machinist. Basically a deep thin walled socket with a large hole on the side to let the wiring pass through. We used quality tool steel instead of mild steel because of the thin walls. You still need quite a lot of force to break loose these solenoids.