Exhaust was just finished. Fabricator has 80 hours into it. Charging up the draggy and going to pick up the car later today. It's funny, I always thought the 550's spark plug wires looked prettier than the 575M individual coils. Just put up a teaser from outside the car on my IG story.
Did some data logging with the car today and the exhaust netted a full second off 60-130. Image Unavailable, Please Login GT3 & Viper are still faster. The 575M is getting a LOT of wheel spin in lower gears and now it gets wheel-hop in second gear and breaks the tires loose on the 2-3 shift. The new suspension and some sticky tires will definitely help drop the time. So I decided to install the Fortune Auto/Muller coilovers today. Was a bit more involved than anticipated, getting the front coilovers out and dealing with the sway bars (really explains the car's handling characteristics) but overall was easy to work on. Image Unavailable, Please Login Some install pics Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Got a shot of the new coilover and Ti exhaust Image Unavailable, Please Login Dropped the left rear wheel arch. . . and was showered in sand/dirt. Awesome. Image Unavailable, Please Login 5.5 hours later.done.need water. Image Unavailable, Please Login Weighed the OEM coilovers to Fortune/Muller. Dropped 16.625lbs Up next is dialing in the ride height after these settle (100lbs of tools in the trunk). Then have to deal with that offset. Woof. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Coming along great... those coil overs look nice and the price is fantastic. Is it possible to dial in the ride height close to OEM? or will it always be lowered?
It won't be close to OEM, but it will not be this low. I find installing coilvers around where the factory sets them while building to be much easier to install (because the body is short). But they need to be adjusted up quite a bit. The rear wheels need to come out about 55mm. Depending on how quickly wheels can be found/made I might pick up some spacers.
minor updates. While the front end was apart, decided to do some heat management to the airboxes. Took forever to apply, so if I did it again, would ceramic coat (header coat) the airboxes instead of gold foil. But this should help and can barely see it when installed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Set up the ride height to a decent low level. Screwed around and threw the rear wheels on the front. Looks like I found my new front wheel specs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login If anyone has some 575M rears lying around, lemme know. Might run a square set up for a bit.
First, awesome build and props to you for your innovative thinking/approach. Second, be really careful with that wheel hop - the diff's in these cars aren't bullet proof and are expensive AF to repair/replace.
Lol it'll be like the Murci sun gear fiasco all over again. Yeah the ride height looks great, the tires are still clear of the arches. Odd they tuck in the way they do, definitely need spacers. There's no rubbing in the front with those massive tires?
Thanks! Not many cars can survive wheel hop. Good to know about pricing though. I didn't check at full lock for rubbing. While the wheels/tires are larger, they aren't that much bigger and with the offset pushing outward I assume there is quite a bit of clearance. Generally speaking, a 295/35R18 is .1" taller and 1.7" wider than 255/35R19. I could drop to a 30 series tire or 275 width tire for more clearance up front.
Knocked another .1 off the 60-130 (with A/C on), so 1.3 seconds behind Viper. Still dealing with significant wheelspin in second gear, 2-3 shift and 3-4 shift. Lighter wheels & sticky tires are up next. Should knock those times down significantly.
Pretty easy way to gain a few cheap ponies, especially considering you've already given the girl her voice with the exhaust. Can fire over your ECU flash file to 360Trev if you pull the file off yourself. He can do some nice little tweaks like removing the throttle pedal delay as well as dropping in a new map for best torque through the rev range. He can help with a manual conversion too for when you want to cross that bridge.
Just found out the car is on tires with 340 treadwear . . . explains those traction issues. I just hit him up for a tune. The manual swap is so tempting.
How difficult was it to remove the sticky areas on the steering wheel covers? Jus alcohol, oven cleaner or others?
That took a bit of elbow grease to clean it compared to the other parts. I used a microfiber cloth with a significant amount of alcohol.
For what it's worth I'm running the following: 19x9 +32 19x11 +32 (325 width) with a spacer...I think either 10 or 15mm max. No rubbing lowered on factory coils.
Took the car out today and it will spin the rears with moderate throttle input in first. These tires are a joke. That looks amazing. I went with HRE 305M 18x10.5 +32 18x11 -3 Mine are going to be quite aggressive. Debating on running 305/35 at all corners, going with 100 treadwear so it should be plenty sticky once they are warm and allow for slip when I want it. Front will be real grippy.
Thank you I think it would look gnarly if you did a square setup like on your Viper. Something different for a 550...the power steering on the cars seems to be overpowered so should be easy to drive still. Question is will it rub. I'm running 265/35 on the front and 325/30 on the rear. I'm curious how yours would drive with your new suspension. I pretty much hate the factory setup...it's too soft on standard setting and barely any better on sport mode. I'm likely going to send the OEM suspension to Delta-Vee at some point though to have it overhauled to a more aggressive setting on standard and more biased towards a "Race Mode" type setting when on sport.
The rear will handle wheels up to 13" with no problems. Mine had 9" F and 12.5" R NF2s with 25 mm spacers on the rear. No rubbing, but ride was compromised somewhat at the rear because the big NF2s are heavy. Plenty of traction, even on P Zeros (355/25 19 NLA).
You obviously know that tire spin is a safety feature and will keep the increased torque from breaking something a lot more expensive. If you get big enough rubber that you can hook in 1st, something more expensive in the transaxle is gonna let go...... I would think the diff end will handle it, but probably not the tranny end. I would tune the suspension to where your wheel hop is eliminated then install something like the old Racelogic traction control systems. Or get ready to adapt an Xtrac.....
What an awesome thread @white out - thanks for sharing! Oh, and impressive results thus far in the 60-130 logging! Clearly what you’re doing is working!
Those wheels look like FIKSE FM 5. I always liked the look of them on a 550. Funny, I think I have a spare set in the garage. Maybe I should get a 550/575 to put them to good use Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Close! They are the Profil 5 from Fikse. I had the centres refinished in the factory wheel paint code (I believe Argento Nurburgring?) and have a 10-15mm spacer on the rear (I can confirm if anyone really cares to know). I love the wheels just need to figure something out for centrecaps at some point.