Crazy California PP after 20k Miles. CC Brakes ? Can Anyone Help

I'm going to suggest you run away from this car. 70k in repairs? Interior falling apart..oil leaks..say good by and find another. There are plenty to choose from.

 

Agree, run away. Looking over that quote though, 114.50 to adjust the washer squirters, gas cap tether 587.13 LOL

 

You seem to be trying to talk yourself into this car and rationalize all the wrongs. RUN, do not walk, away from this car/purchase.

 

I'm trying to find the part of the PPI that accounts for the $1500 charge.

Edit: ah, ok...they did do a compression test... that definitely does take longer than looking at a few buttons and writing down "they are broken."

 

And this is why I sold my <10K mile California when it went in for a service and they found nearly $20k in repairs was needed. Parts from other sources amounted to about $5k. Ridiculous for a 5 year old <10k mile car. I'll stick to old Ferraris and other brand late model cars.
ps I heard the brakes were suppose to be a lifetime item unless tracked

 

Suspect with those prices the dealer is hoping you will help fund their employee retirement plan for the quarter.

 

It is funny because often we got those threads about buying a salvage Ferrari. Looking at these kinds of prices is exactly why with minimal damage these cars get totalled so often. Look at that $17 remove and reseal engine. Can you imagine in a crash the belly is scratched and the shop says remove and replace engine to change scratched part $17K.

 

5 years ago I had a PPI done by Ferrari of Fort Lauderdale. Took the car to another Ferrari dealer and got a very different PPI. So beware.

I also note that many of the problems are cosmetic and electrical. There are many lower cost solutions than the full on remedies they are suggesting. Just as an example, Ferrari of Fort Lauderdale put a 3M bra on my car that started yellowing. Instead of replacing it, I had a detailer sand it and then ceramic coat it. It looks perfect. Under prior ownership of my car Ferrrari of Fort Lauderdale had also replaced my instrument cluster (is there a consistent theme here?). Rod Drew out here on the West Coast does instrument cluster repairs for far, far less and is well thought of (I first found him through Taz).

If you are really interested in this car I would take it to a reputable independent and get a real PPI and then make some decisions.

 

The CCM wear at 4% is very normal, I see this daily, they are supposed last “100k miles,” that’s only the rotor wear not the pad wear. Also, keep in mind that for a shops need to cover their own ass when it comes to PPIs. If it’s something they failed to mention in the PPI it could come back to bite them in the ass especially in Florida and a few of their states around the country.

 

This is disgraceful and a black eye to the brand. What a load of BS.

 

$14,600 for a headlight and a “reconditioning” of the other ?

God I thought we 456 guys had it rough !

 

Does a PPI REALLY take 10 to 15 hours these days? THAT would account for a $1500 charge. Or? Is the $1500 a CYA fee, in case something they missed turns up, and you jump on them?

 

The whole thing is basically fraud

 

Well, there are specifically some issues I have with the report itself.

The first form with the checkboxes is a generic dealership form; we have a similar one. It takes less than 10-15 mins to examine a car to fill out the form. However, the form as completed directly contradicts other information later included. Under "Inspect for Visual Leaks", they've marked "engine/etc" as Green - meaning no issues. Yet later, they identify a $17,000 valve cover leak.

In addition, they have listed at the bottom of the form that Tire Wear Indicates that the tires need balancing. While possibly noted visually, it's something I very rarely see - and usually on tires with much less tread depth, and older than 20K miles. Perhaps it has the original tires, in which case all manner of things can be expected on EOL tires. If they tires are indeed original, then they should be replaced - not balanced and rotated.

They've listed the battery spec as 700 CCA. I've done hundreds of battery tests; I cannot recall ever getting a single result that the actual measured CCA was identical to the spec. Which leads me to question if the battery was tested at all.

The additional details list "compression test performed, results normal". Odd that the results aren't actually listed on the report.

There are many issues that would make me walk away from this car, but I'm not thrilled about the shop's reporting methods either.

 

My favorite part was saying the car wouldn't start, so it needs a new starter for $3440, yet somehow they still managed to "test drove the car and no overheating noticed at this time" Oh, and recommending a $1429 replacement for the key because the buttons are worn.