Bellhousing trouble TR

I would try to jack up the front of car or engine (if engine is out of the car). Then I would pour or squirt in a mixture of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid every day in every crack and hole, between clutches and pressure plate. With luck the solution would travel down hill on the shaft to rusted spline and bearing. I would do this every day and it will eventually give. If you search on this solution, you will see test results as it has been tested against retail solutions and it works better than anything you can buy. I always use it a week before I work on rusted nuts and bolts and apply it every day and it works. I find it reduces the amount of time I need to use a torch.

From Machinist work shopr article:
*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

 

Did you remove th transfer case?

 

Not sure how to phrase this. In putting the pressure plate back, I couldn't get it to go. Even tried the old plate and it didn't seem to fit. Problem was that the alignment is so precise!! I lightly removed the rust and applied a small amount of oil to the positioning pins and when aligned properly and with a few taps from a dead-blow hammer, no problem.

Similarly, with the pressure plate nuts removed, there is nothing to hold the bellhousing in place other than friction. However, you will need an even and direct pull to prevent binding, and support the weight of the transfer gear assembly. Lubricate as much as you can on the mounting studs. Most importantly, from my limited experience, support the bellhousing and don't let it sag against the mounting studs.

HTH.