94 512TR 66,000 mile major | Page 19 | FerrariChat

94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

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  1. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Cost, and the fact I never want to replace those long heater hoses ever again.
     
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  2. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    romano schwabel
    those short silicone hoses are not sooo expensive but much better to handle with
     
  3. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
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  4. JIMBO

    JIMBO Formula 3
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    Oct 31, 2003
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  5. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  6. JIMBO

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    #457 JIMBO, Mar 27, 2020
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2020
    Next the plastic shroud for the generator cooling hose gets fitted on the inside edge of the LH radiator. It wedges in the space between the LH radiator and the LH fuel tank and is attached by two 10 mm nut and washers to the studs that also hold clamps for the wiring harness. The upper plastic attachment point for the shroud had been broken off in the past, but the lower stud seemed to hold it securely. I had to remove the fuel filler hose to access the area and secure the shroud.
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  7. JIMBO

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    My plastic corrugated hose had cracked in 2 places, and there are no spares available (I found one damaged used hose in Europe for $105).
    I found a piece of flexible plastic in the toiler repair section of Lowes that fit tightly in the hose. After some trimming it was glued in place and seems to be an effective repair. The hose is then screwed onto the flange (after letting the glue set overnight). I then re-attached the fuel filler hose.
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  8. JIMBO

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    Lastly, the oil sump gets put back. On the rear of the sump is an open flange with a rubber grommet. This fits over the metal pin as the rear attachment point. You can't see it. The other two attachments are connected to threaded brackets on the firewall and the frame. A 13 mm bolt with lock washer goes through a cupped washer that holds a rubber insulator. There is a metal spacer in the middle. followed by the same rubber insulator and cupped washer on the bottom of the oil sump bracket. This whole assembly sits on top of the frame brackets. The bolt threads into the frame brackets.
    It takes some blind luck to get the rear grommet over the frame pin, but when in place, the two other attachment points will line up. It's a pain.

    Hint: plug your oil lines - there is always a little oil left in the hoses and sump that make a huge mess during installation. Don't ask me how I know.

    This is the cupped washer and one of the rubber insulators. There is a metal sleeve that fits between the cupped washers and prevents crushing.
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    This is the rear attachment point and rubber grommet that fits over the frame pin.
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    This is the frame pin over which the above rubber grommet fits.
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    Sump in place
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    Proper sequence of bolt, cupped washers and rubber insulators (metal sleeve not visible)
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  9. JIMBO

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    Carefully re-attach the hose from the cooler radiator to the sump. Make sure the hose is perpendicular to the fitting and tighten the large nut hand tight until it looks like this (fully seated). Then snug it up. Re-attach the electrical connector and ground (10 mm lock nut). There is a frame stud near the electrical connection that appears to be the only place to attach the ground ring terminal. I will try to research, but can anyone confirm this placement is correct? I will get pics today.
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  10. JIMBO

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    And we can check yet another part off our list as done. At your leisure attach the wheel arch cover with nine 10mm bolts and washers.


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  11. eziotestarossa

    eziotestarossa Karting

    Mar 28, 2014
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    Great work! Maybe you can do the major on my 90' Testarossa when its due again? :D:D
     
  12. JIMBO

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    I can say with utmost confidence that this will be my last major.
     
  13. JIMBO

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    The old AC compressor was working OK, but I felt a new unit was in order. One call to Joeand Gretchen at Polar Bear in Ft Lauderdale and I had a new Sanden unit, identical to original except it has 2 pulleys (we only need the outer one). They knew exactly what I needed. It arrived in 3 days. I guess I could swap out the pulley and clutch assembly but this seemed like a lot of trouble for nothing. I have an R-12 system. The compressor comes filled with 6 oz of ester (not PAG) oil. I drained it to make sure and refilled it with 6 oz of new oil. I could probably have skipped this step.
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  14. JIMBO

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    Next transfer the bracket to the new compressor. Remove the three 17 mm bolts and one lock nut from the old unit and then the bracket. Here I encountered a problem - the upper bolt hit the edge of the rear pulley, requiring a bit of grinding of the back pulley edge to let it pass. That pulley is not used anyway. Replace bracket and bolts the same way they came off the old unit.

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    Here is the bolt hitting the pulley edge
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    After a little grinding, the bolt seats correctly.
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  15. JIMBO

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    The new unit even had the correct electrical terminal and diode already in place. One of my original fittings had some buggered up threads and was replaced with another call to Polar Bear ($35 from Joe, over $100 from Ricambi). I also got two 90 degree R-134 fittings to make hook up to my gauges way easier. I always replace and oil my O-rings. Remember to remove the Scrader valves from the original fittings before screwing on the retrofit units.
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    Schrader valve removal
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    90 degree R-134 fittings make it much easier to connect gauges.
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    Here you can see the difference in position of a straight (red) vs 90 degree fitting (blue).
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  16. JIMBO

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    The AC compressor is secured to the block by a large bolt, which acts as a pivot, and the tensioning assembly. There is an important bushing that inserts into the cam cover mounting hole so the bolt fits tightly. Grease helps. Insert and begin threading the bolt (don't tighten) and make sure the compressor pivots easily, then put the belt on loosely and make sure it lines up with the crank pulley.
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  17. JIMBO

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    Insert the tensioning fitting through the curved slot and into AC bracket. Attach locknut and washer, but don't tighten. Make sure compressor pivots freely, then raise compressor until belt tightens and thread tensioning bolt through bracket and into tensioning fitting. Tighten the tensioning bolt (13 mm) until the belt is snug.
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    This is the sequence of the tensioning assembly (compressor bracket not in place).
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  18. JIMBO

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    Finding and setting the correct tension on the AC and alternator belts has always been a mystery to me, but that dilemma was solved by Flash32 in my thread "AC belt tension" in the Technical forum. Using the Krikit belt tensioning gauge, the AC belt is set to 50-55 kg and the alternator belt is 45-50 kg. The Ferrari Service Bulletin suggests re-tensioning to the same values after 100 miles, then leave it alone.
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  19. JIMBO

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    The Krikit is an inexpensive, fairly accurate device for measuring belt tension ($12.07 on Amazon, search Gates 91107 belt tension gauge). You want the Krikit 1
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  20. JIMBO

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    So first, snug your 17 mm pivot bolt and the 13 mm lock nut on the tensioning fitting, but make sure the compressor can move. Put the rubber strap on the Krikit over your index finger. On the bottom of the Krikit is a flange that fits against the edge of the belt. Make sure the movable black indicator is all the way down. Now place the Krikit on the middle of the belt and press gently until it clicks. Then kg of tension are indicated by the level of the front of the black indicator. Turn the Krikit side ways and note where the front of the black indicator intersects the kg scale.
    The amount of tension required was much more than I had estimated by hand. Keep tightening the tensioning bolt and rechecking until 50-55 kg is achieved, then tighten the 17 an 15 mm fasteners and recheck again. Take your time, it's trial and error. Pretty neat device. You can also draw a line on the side of the Krikit with a magic marker at the 45, 50 and 55 kg levels to make reading easier.
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  21. JIMBO

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  22. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
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    Jimbo

    Not sure if you did for picture purpose but you have the gauge on the wrong side if belt it appears

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  23. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
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    Nevermind..looking again it is correct ..the ribs threw me at first ..sorry ...my bad

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  24. JIMBO

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    No worries. 50 kg is tighter than I would have made it by "feel".
     

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