In case you forgot, here is the layout of all the aluminum coolant pipes Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The hose needs to be cut into 3" lengths. A hacksaw does the job nicely. I chose to use constant torque hose clamps because they seem like a better made product. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I started by installing the left (driver's side) radiator. With the wheel off and the wheel well cover removed, installation is straight forward. Gently move the radiator into place and begin by installing the two 17 mm bolts with large flat washers from beneath the frame. Don't tighten yet. I used Loctite) Then move the radiator up against the rubber shroud , place the upper bracket over the insulated studs on the radiator and thread the two 10 mm bolts, flat and split washers through the bracket and into the two cage nuts in the frame. Install the two 10 mm nuts and washers onto the studs (or use a nylon lock washer and flat washer). Hold the radiator in best position against the shroud and tighten all 10 mm fasteners. Connect temperature sender to the wiring harness. Make sure the drain plug is in place and closed. Fully tighten the 17 mm bottom bolts. In my case I installed new custom aluminum radiators from Wizard cooling. They are identical in size to the original radiators but much more efficient. And way prettier. The Wizard radiators also come with a petcock instead of the drain plug. Insulated (vibration dampening) studs Image Unavailable, Please Login Upper bracket Image Unavailable, Please Login Temperature sending unit connected to harness Image Unavailable, Please Login Upper bracket in place Image Unavailable, Please Login Lower 17 mm bolts in place with large washers (from below) Image Unavailable, Please Login Gorgeous Wizard radiator in place Image Unavailable, Please Login View from engine compartment Image Unavailable, Please Login
Once the radiator is in and secure, start putting the aluminum coolant pipes and 1 3/8" hoses together one by one. A little Magic lube works wonders. In order for the hoses that go from the engine to the pipes to line up, these aluminum pipes and the thermostat housing need to be in the same position relative to the centerline of the car as when they came out. I did not make any alignment marks when I removed the pipes, but luckily the brass bleeder bolt on the top of the thermostat housing had made a perfect indentation in the soft foil insulation covering the firewall. I got lucky. Make some kind of reference mark before you remove everything. After that it's simply a matter of recreating the original pipe layout. You will need a total of ten 3" pieces of the 1 3/8" coolant hose There are two large hose clamps that suspend the upper pipes and keep them tight on the firewall. Don't attach these until the end so that you have some room to move the whole assembly when making the final attachment to the RH radiator. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Once the radiators and coolant pipes are done, install the fans on the radiators. There are two fixed studs and two studs on brackets which bolt to the radiator and in turn attach the fan. As always, 10 mm fasteners are used throughout. Once in place, connect the fan electrical harness. I chose to get new SPAL fans to match my new radiators. I could have obtained fans that pull more air, but with that also comes increased amp draw and I did not want to tax the already suspect 512TR electrical system. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
There are two other holes on the outer flange of the LH radiator. These are used to secure the weather-tech style vacuum hose. Two 10 mm bolts go through the flange and are bolted down with 10 mm nuts, then the hose clamps fastened over the studs with more 10 mm nuts. Then attach the plastic hose that goes from the fuel filler door to the fuel tank. There are rubber gaskets that fit between the plastic and the metal. Tighten with the weirdest hose clamps ever invented. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Now re-attach the wheel well cover with nine 10 mm bolts and flat washers. Take this time to do any cosmetic improvements to the wheel arch. Then go to the engine compartment side and feed the fuel filler overflow hose into the plastic holders on the inside of the wheel well cover. They snap closed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Another non-stock but logical item on my car is actually a part off the inner fender of my 1970 Pontiac GTO Judge. It is used to keep road debris off the upper control arm and out of the engine compartment and is called an "Inner Fenderwell A-Arm Seal" $25 for a pair. I use it to keep road debris out of the engine compartment. Not pretty, but functional and I had them lying around. Don't tell Shamile. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I usually shy away from cheap stuff from Harbor Freight. You get what you pay for. I bought this bead blast cabinet from TIP Industries in Ohio 32 years ago and it still performs flawlessly. The Harbor Freight cabinet does not have a foot pedal or a dust vacuum. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
yeah... the HF version only works ‘adequately’. My shop vac hooks up to the back. As rarely as I use it - it adds value. why did you choose paint instead of blasting?
Well, work on the car took an unexpected one month hiatus due to COVID-19 and getting my 90 year old Dad moved into an independent living facility (just in time, as it turned out). Such is the privilege of working on your own car. Now, where were we.. Getting the RH radiator connected to the cooling pipes turned into quite a pain in the rear. There is no room to maneuver the radiator and very little wiggle room between the pieces of aluminum pipe. I finally had to slide on piece of hose all the way over the end of the pipe, bring both pipes into alignment and then slide the hose into final position. A lot of lubricant helped. I removed the clamps on the fuel tank vent system to gain some access. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I also removed this attachment for the oil radiator to get the new radiators into position easier. 10 mm bolts. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Don't forget to re-attach the 2 clamps that hold the upper pipes to the firewall (washers and 10 mm nylon lock nuts) as well as the clamps for the fuel tank vent system (if removed). Double check that all coolant hose clamps are tight. Don't forget to replace the oil radiator support. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Connect the upper hose that goes to the front heater to the nipple under the thermostat housing. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next attach the fan to the radiator as in previous posts, connect wiring harness and it should look something like this: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Time to change the fuel filters. Begin by loosening the top and bottom fittings with an adjustable wrench on the filter and a 17 mm wrench on the fittings. There are multiple small copper sealing washers that will need to be replaced. Also remove the bracket from the frame (13 mm bolt). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Reverse the process to install the new filters. Make sure the copper washers are in the correct sequence. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The older Bosch fuel filters had larger flanges on the bottom. On the newer units the upper and lower flanges are identical. Just FYI. Image Unavailable, Please Login