Almost ready for internals. Machined surfaces under starter need to be polished a bit. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Blocking the body straight. Taking the guide coat off. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Cleaned up the fuse blocks and replaced the silicone terminal covers. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Wiring harness for the doors that passes through the cowl posts. Like a lot of repaints this section gets painted body colour. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Getting closer to the original colour! I had the one soaking in peroxide outside in the sun - the UV light helps in this case. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Bundle of wires with no terminals are for the console controls. I needed to remove the blade connectors to be able to slide the new sheathing over the main harness where it had been cut open. More pics of the general condition of the harness. 4th pic is the wiper / headlight switch connection just beside the steering column. I replaced all three hardshells but wanted to show the difference by replacing the center one for the shot. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Center console wiring with new sheathing, blade connectors and silicone terminal covers. Image Unavailable, Please Login Under dash connections behind gauges, old brake pedal switch. Image Unavailable, Please Login Fuse blocks on earlier cars are better than the later ones, the bean counters in action. Image Unavailable, Please Login Front section of main harness. Top of the pic is where it runs along the right side of the inner fender then goes down through an opening with the fan ducting. It handles lighting, headlight lifting motors, horn all along the right side then goes across the bumper structure to power the rad fans (2 single terminal bullet connectors with light blue wires). 365 has 2 fans, 512 has 3. Fn ground are from the motors to the frame structure. Then at the end of the harness it feeds the left headlight, signal, rad fan switch , grounds and headlight lifting motors. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Working on the next batch of subassemblies. A/C box. Pretty sure I wouldn't want to have to find one if this one was broken. Hole in the screen is for a sensing bulb to pass through and sit inside the fins. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Headlight lifting motors, horn compressor and of course those red things are horns. Horns raise a question. When the 512 horns were hidden under the right headlight up until the 1978 model year they were medium blue. Once they went up front for all to see they became what I call Candy Apple red. So did early 365's have red horns that were hidden then Ferrari switched to blue or were these replaced with later horns? I suspect replaced. Ill investigate and welcome input from anyone in-the-know. Image Unavailable, Please Login A/C blower and heater blowers, rad fans and shifter are next. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rad fans. The first fan is a later replacement. You can see the original finish is hammertone paint on the second (correct motor) which around late 78 - 79 they changed to clear zinc. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Someone was kind enough to paint the dark grey plastic fan blades black with a spray bomb. I can't remember the last time I worked on an old Ferrari that didn't have paint on the blades. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
A/C blower assembly, I have a new one here to replace it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fans had black paint to cover the primer overspray from a previous paint job. Once the paint was off I could see shiny areas here and there, especially the hub. So polished them on my polishing wheel to bring them back. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Right half of blade is after the polishing wheel. Image Unavailable, Please Login Inconsistent look is from reflections in the blades Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I had one extra Lucas fan motor that was as rough on the outside as the original 74 motor. Once apart the original motor had one magnet out of position and the other had a crack - two too many magnetic poles. So Ill use the magnets out of the incorrect motor housing to make 2 motors out of 3. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Hold the retainer tabs up and I can slide the magnets out of the housing. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I took the heater blowers apart, cleaned everything, removed more overspray and polished the black housings to bring back the new shine. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Of course the horns have overspray on them. Horn colour. The 76 I have here had blue horns, 78's Ive worked on had blue horns. Sam (a member here) has a 77 with candy apple horns and this 74 has them as well. One of the 78's was super original and this 74 hasn't been hit so its not like they were damaged and replaced - doesn't mean they are original to the car though. The jury is still out. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Paul, rookie question: are the hard wiring connectors Molex brand? My old Alfa had similar looking parts. Digging your work always and appreciating the opportunity you give us to look behind the curtain. Thanks, John
Shifter refresh. 365 has a universal joint on both ends of the shifter shaft as does dino etc. By 1976 they had the small silent block bushings on both ends. Image Unavailable, Please Login Note large conical spring in the middle of the picture. Its the spring you depress when you go to select reverse. There's a second spring that presses against the side of the shifter pivot ball which is responsible for giving you the spring loaded centering action in the neutral gate while you play with the shifter at a red light. The large conical spring does two things on this shifter. It gives you a reverse lockout of sorts in conjunction with the gate but also centers the shifter fore and aft making the shifter always wanting to return to center. Ferrari did away with this conical spring by 76 (not sure when exactly) and added one in the bottom cup you see hanging off the bottom of the shifter. This gave you the lockout for reverse but took away the fore and aft centering the shifter leaving only the side to side neutral centering. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Took two shots because my camera can't focus on the gate and ball at the same time. What a great looking part, I think I need one just lying on the corner of my desk. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Air horn compressor almost finished too. Here's the lid for now. Horns ready for paint......red.....blue......I guess I could paint the horns purple or bug juice green and no one would know if I didnt post pics here. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I detailed the air diverters, park brake lever and linkage as well but thats not very exciting stuff to look at. Onto the a/c box now then the next bin of parts.
A/C box finished. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Based on the location of the white streaks its from the brake fluid reservoirs above thats been spilled and leaked onto the cowl and found its way inside through the blower motor hole. Its directly beneath them so that makes sense. Two solutions. Leave it since you'll only see it here on the bench or paint the box. Painting plastic is never a great solution. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
After some research I went with red on the horns, the compressor is finished as well and oiled inside. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would like to thank Ron, Dyke, Sam and Nick for valuable input on some small but very important details. Although I work alone its never a one man job.
Cleaning the brass hardware. Just like getting the yellow out of the plastic I tried a few different techniques I saw on-line until something worked. My first attempt was ketchup and it did nothing, yes I filled that container with ketchup and put the parts in it - smelled good, that's about it. Yes I could use brasso and clean each piece by hand or find something that does it while I do other things. So this mixture is flour, vinegar and salt. I let it sit about an hour then rinsed under the tap. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
All four are basically finished. I need to finish up the safety wire on two, add some yellow zinc parts like the throttle levers, mixture screws and air bleeds. Called it a day. Monday they'll be finished and I have 8 other carbs to work on. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login