F430 E-diff solenoid replacement | FerrariChat

F430 E-diff solenoid replacement

Discussion in '360/430' started by gqmd, Feb 25, 2020.

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  1. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    My yellow slowdown light came on and the car shifts into Neutral when slowing down. After reading some great info on this forum, I am now in the process of replacing my E-diff solenoid. Eventually I also plan to do the accumulator.

    I did some searches and did not find a detailed thread on this. So I read the workshop manual and got some ideas from users on this forum about new torque setting of 7 N-M, where to purchase the solenoid, etc and started on this journey.

    Here is my progress so far:

    I disconnected the battery and let the car sit for a day to depressurize.

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    Above pic shows the solenoid wrapped in an insulated foil cover with a blue zip tie.

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    Above pic shows a blue zip tie on the E-diff solenoid connector side.

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    Above pic shows the insulated foil being slid off after removing the two zip ties.

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    As in the above pic, you can now slide down the larger foil covering the two hoses, exposing the E-diff solenoid.

    I realized that the torque wrench I bought will not fit in that area. My torque wrench is about 14 inches long. The largest wrench that will probably fit is about 9 inches. I am in no rush and will buy a smaller torque wrench with the proper 27mm attachment before continuing. If anyone has suggestions on a suitable torque wrench, I'd love to hear them.
     
  2. BruceC

    BruceC Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 26, 2018
    249
    Tucson, AZ
    FWIW, I just went through this for the same issue, replacing the ediff valve, accumulator (more for preventative maint.) and while the leak rate on the valve seemed to indicate that was the problem, the real issue was the bleed screws. I have the Scud Ing Swiss solid state relay with the display module. It was constantly reporting pump runtime errors, but went almost completely dead silent after the two of the bleed screws were found loose, retightened & system flushed.
     
  3. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    Today I was able to finish this procedure, as follows:

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    These two quick-coupling oil delivery pipes AS SHOWN ABOVE were disconnected from the
    transmission block, which is located on the RH side close to the F1 fluid tank.

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    As above, the pipes were disconnected. I placed a cloth underneath, but not much fluid leaked from these pipes.

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    As above, I attached adapters to a 27mm crows feet to adapt it down to 1/4 inch.

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    Above is the package showing the new E-diff solenoid.


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    Above, I attached a 1/4" ratchet to the 27mm crows feet to loosen the old E-diff solenoid. Not much fluid leaked when I removed it. Just in case, I did place a rag underneath to catch any fluid.

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    Above, is the opening with he E-diff solenoid removed. There was not much debris there, but I cleaned the area just in case.

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    Above is my 1/4" torque wrench ready to go (attached to the 27mm crows feet with adapters).

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    Above are the calculations accounting for the 2" crows feet. You can find these conversion websites online.
     
  4. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    continued...

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    Above, the torque wrench tightening the new E-diff solenoid. I was surprised as to how little torque this actually takes.

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    At above, I reconnected the two quick-couplers/pipes at the block.

    Now...on to changing the accumulator and then bleeding the system.
     
    catdog and Flea7 like this.
  5. scuderia09

    scuderia09 Formula 3
    BANNED

    Sep 6, 2007
    1,045
    #5 scuderia09, Feb 28, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2020
    have you scan the system first , have you check clutch reading wear % have you check pump pressure and flush the Ediff system
     
  6. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    I think you may be right. I was initially thinking of just changing out the accumulator as preventative. But now I may bleed the e-diff first and see it it works okay with this newly replaced solenoid. The car is 12 years old but with low mileage. It’s worth a bleed and check first.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    scuderia09 likes this.
  7. scuderia09

    scuderia09 Formula 3
    BANNED

    Sep 6, 2007
    1,045
    I would check on the %of clutch wear make sure car running to bleed Ediff. system maybe also need a Snanner to purge system
     
  8. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    After replacing the E-diff solenoid I did bleed the E-diff by pressuring pump to 55bar, supplying 12 v/1.1A to the E-diff solenoid, opening E-diff bleed screw, bleeding until pressure went down to 43bar, and then repeating cycle.

    This process of changing out E-diff solenoid did not solve my Yellow Slow Down light and E-diff light (which would come on even at idle).

    However, once I changed out the accumulator, I am no longer getting these lights (at idle).



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  9. Greg Larson

    Greg Larson Rookie

    Nov 12, 2018
    24
    oregon
    Full Name:
    Bob the Builder
    Hi gqmd. I noticed in one of you picks of changing the EDiff valve that the fluid is still red. Looks like you still have Donax in the system ??. I would change all that out and use Liqui Molly central hydraulic fluid. It makes a big difference in shifting. Not hard to do if you have a scanner. Launch or Foxwell will do it all except the EDiff bleed. Scud ing Swiss has a tool for that now. It works great. Also, another thing that made a big difference in shifting on my car was changing the gear box oil to Valvoline Synthetic 75w-90 and do not add any shift modifier. It really stopped the chatter and noise when shifting. It worth doing. GL
     
  10. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    What power source u used to apply 12v/1.1a?


     
  11. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 22, 2002
    18,755
    what are today's prices for the solenoid and accumulator?
     
  12. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    DC Power Supply Variable, Switching DC Regulated Power Supply with 4 Digital LCD Display (0-30V/0-5A), Reverse Polarity/High Temperature Protection, 110V/115CM Alligator Leads Included - MDC01
    by TACKLIFE
     
  13. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    F1 ACCUMULATOR BOTTLE $425.00
    E-Diff Solenoid $579.68

    This is from Ricambi.

    You can also order the Alfa Romeo / Fiat version accumulator way cheaper from Europe, usually just over $100. I am not sure what the current situation is given the Covid issue.
     
  14. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    Thanks for this info!

    I saw Steph's recommendation on changing out the F1 fluid to Moli. I am also considering that. I have to read up and see if I need to remove the actuators to cycle out all the fluid. BTW, your post on the clutch change was amazing. I am far from that, but it was a great read.
     
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  15. ttforcefed

    ttforcefed F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Aug 22, 2002
    18,755
    wow - i remember the day when these were $20K jobs
     
  16. Greg Larson

    Greg Larson Rookie

    Nov 12, 2018
    24
    oregon
    Full Name:
    Bob the Builder
    gqmd, You do not have to remove the actuator to bleed out the fluid if you change Liqui Moly. It has a return line and most of the fluid left is minimal. It will purge it self out and mix with the Liqui Moly. Not an issue.
     
  17. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    Thanks Greg!


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  18. Denzel Yang

    Denzel Yang Rookie

    Feb 2, 2023
    40
    China
    Full Name:
    Denzel Yang
    Which two bleed screws you referring to? Behind the actuator? Please do tell me, same problem drive me nuts.thanks
     
  19. BruceC

    BruceC Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 26, 2018
    249
    Tucson, AZ
    The actual shift actuator has 3 bleed screws. Our indie mechanic found the problem after I mentioned seeing multiple posts on Fchat. Initially, he thought it would be a little work to access the shift actuator, but he turned the car around in a half day, so it must not have been too hard to get to. Maybe the attached diagram will help.
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  20. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,561
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    Timings of pump on and off ..with engine on and off and driving straight @ 25 mph should point you in the right direction of issue ..also how many shifts you get before pump cycles ..

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  21. Denzel Yang

    Denzel Yang Rookie

    Feb 2, 2023
    40
    China
    Full Name:
    Denzel Yang
    I have tightened all three bleed screws two weeks ago, the first week all thing works perfectly, then I got p2016 p2017, rebleed the whole system, problem remains. Thinking remove the e diff valve and get it cleaned might help.
     
  22. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,561
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    Or a new one

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  23. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,561
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    There is a procedure (as you may know) to flush the Ediff ..need to buy a few fittings, plugs etc

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  24. Denzel Yang

    Denzel Yang Rookie

    Feb 2, 2023
    40
    China
    Full Name:
    Denzel Yang
    Painful to get a new one, yes, I will try to clean it first and use a 12v powerpro to run the e diff valve. Fingers crossed for tomorrow, if it works I’ll update
     
  25. flash32

    flash32 F1 Veteran

    Aug 22, 2008
    5,561
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    Don't put more than 1 amp

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