How to replace F1 accumulator and bleed system | FerrariChat

How to replace F1 accumulator and bleed system

Discussion in '360/430' started by FlyingHaggisRacing, Oct 4, 2015.

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  1. FlyingHaggisRacing

    FlyingHaggisRacing Formula 3

    Jul 2, 2013
    1,368
    Can anyone advise on the proper method to change the Accumulator on the F1 power unit and then, i guess, the system will need bleed as well.


    thanks.
     
  2. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    Any luck with figuring out the procedure to change the accumulator? I am looking into doing the same thing on a 430.
     
  3. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    brief version:
    release pressure by disconnecting the battery ( lots of other methods too). And wait for a few hours.
    physically replace the bulb
    bleed point at the RH side of the RH intake box. usually just bleed this point is enough. there are 2 other points of bleeding. if not ok, come back and let me know
     
  4. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    Image Unavailable, Please Login I removed the RH rear access panel on my F430 coupe (the one we generally) remove to check F1 fluid level. The bulb is tucked away in there pretty deep. I cannot get the 37mm wrench in there. Any idea as to which panel I should open next?
     
  5. gatago

    gatago Karting

    Jun 28, 2019
    119
    Full Name:
    Marco
    The front right panel is easy enough to remove. I would start there and see if it gives you any more access. Just remember that the hood can't be held up by one strut alone, so ask someone to help hold it or remember to prop it up before you disconnect it.

    I have my panels off for maintenance so if it helps I can take a few pictures for you.

    Im interested in replacing mine, so please let us know how it goes!
     
  6. APA#1

    APA#1 Formula 3

    Nov 5, 2003
    1,311
    Central Florida
    imahorse likes this.
  7. gatago

    gatago Karting

    Jun 28, 2019
    119
    Full Name:
    Marco
  8. frankgoodson

    frankgoodson Rookie

    Dec 25, 2008
    42
    Why are you replacing the accumulator?
     
  9. gatago

    gatago Karting

    Jun 28, 2019
    119
    Full Name:
    Marco
    I'm not answering for OP, he might have a pressing need.

    The reason I'm interested is that hydraulic accumulators do not last forever. In the F430, I believe it's either a membrane or bladder type. Either way, it wears out after time (typically 10-12 years depending on design) and will eventually fail. If the part is sub $100, and you have the car down for maintenance anyway, I would ask why not change it?
     
    UrbanHero likes this.
  10. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    In my case, I was getting the "Yellow Slow Down light" and car shifts into neutral when coming to a stop. I plan to change the E-diff solenoid and the accumulator shortly thereafter. I have the parts, but just trying to find the time.
     
  11. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    There are a few ways you can do it.
    1. you can remove the rear panel which is holding the rear 4x lights. heck, I think to remove this together with the rear bumper is easier.
    2. remove the rear RH wheel well.

    OR, you can manipulate the shape of your wrench by a hammer or torch heat
     
  12. Sled Driver

    Sled Driver Formula Junior

    May 13, 2010
    494
    Stokesdale, NC
    Full Name:
    Emery
    I used a oil filter wrench on the body. The base of the accumulator with the wrench flats has limited accessibility when installed in the car.


    , Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Can't hurt to replace the pressure switch (item # 32), just below the accumulator, while your there.

    To test the operation of the accumulator get in the car & shut the door.
    Turn the ignition key to the 1st position (don't start the car).
    Cycle the paddles between 1st & neutral.
    You should get three to four shifts before the pump cycles ON to re-pressurize the system.
    Do it multiple times to get a good average of shifts to pump cycle.
     
  13. gatago

    gatago Karting

    Jun 28, 2019
    119
    Full Name:
    Marco
    Was there a need to bleed the system? Was the bulb a direct fit or are adapters needed?
     
  14. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    you do need to bleed it.
    at least one point has to be bled, its at the RH side of your right hand air intake box.

     
  15. Sled Driver

    Sled Driver Formula Junior

    May 13, 2010
    494
    Stokesdale, NC
    Full Name:
    Emery
    Talk with Daniel at Recambi. Only the 355 needed an adapter.

    I bled the system by running a clear hose from the bleeder screw, near the airbox, back into the tank.

    Key ON to cycle pump. Open & close the bleed screw. Watch for bubbles in the return hose.
     
  16. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    I just did mine. Absolutely no adapters needed. The fiat / alpha Romeo one was completely identical. I forgot release pressure. So had a slight mess. Nothing on the ground. But very easy with a strap wrench.
     
  17. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    Yellow slow down light and shifts into neutral when I slow down. I first ch aged the e-diff solenoid. That did not solve it. I then did the accumulator and now it’s gone!
     
  18. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
  19. gqmd

    gqmd Rookie

    Jul 25, 2017
    45
    Do you have a pic of which bleeding screw you are referring to? Is it the one I posted above?
     
  20. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    oh yea.

    Interesting angle. Never thought I can access from there, I usually just take off the side panel in the engine bay.

     

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