$1275 is an amazing deal for a new unit. Who ended up scooping it?
Auto mode works on my CS TCU. Also, the proprietary software on the TCU itself gets more respect at a dealer or independent. That's part of what you are paying for and no hassles.
Thanks, mine I see 50794 so I must have the 211023, and according to what we have discussed here the latest TCU but no RACE maps, correct? I have mixed answers about the automatic mode lost with the CS TCU Do you lose you it or not?
Cheers! Literally. I actually have a glass of whiskey on my hand right now. Hanging out at local joint, it's Friday!
So sent out my TCU to Eric to have re-flashed to the CS. Very excited! I had CS TCU in my 2001 a few years back and it was the best upgrade. Since my clutch was replaced last year I was also planning on replacing the F1 motor with the bigger newer pump with cooling fins. I think you also have to replace relay with 70amp relay and fuse with 50 amp. Should i do this before having the TCU installed and calibrated by the SD2/3? Or does it make any difference. Thanks
Installed Eric's flashed TCU much improved! Great speedy service! Highly recommended! One question after installing the TCU should you turn of power to car over night so the ECU can be reset. I am assuming the ECU's are adaptive and car will respond better? Thanks
You should drive for about ten miles while never going over 4,000 RPM. That allows the secondary emissions sensor to recalibrate. I could not get my car to pass smog after installing one of Eric's flashed TCU's until I did this. Jim
Yonks old post but thought I'd chime in as I've just got round to installing it Few observations: - in "Normal Mode" when the car is cold, my car will actually blip on the downshifts? But alas it doesn't last long and the changes are a little more subtle once the car / trans is warm Anyone else noticing this? Be fun if it blipped all the time, no? - the changes in general are less "slippy," in Normal Mode, but I do feel as though a slight lift of the gas pedal would still make these changes even better? One thing I have noticed across all cars and TCUs is that when you lift off and quickly time a change, you get something of a clap coming from either the plates or the actuator? Anyone else noticing this? - in "Sport Mode" with good throttle the changes are fabulous. Having seen recent footage of the Aventador on YouTube (I wish I had driven one..), it feels like the changes are on par. The up shifts are seamless and bullet fast. Immeasurably faster than before / any manual car One key observation.. Lifting off in Sport Mode is an absolute NO NO. It absolutely spazzes the TCU (presumably) and even knocked me into neutral when combined with a particularly bumpy road. I just don't think the software has a clue what lifting off is, so I'm guessing this is just best avoided. Takes some time to un-learn the process of lifting off - which admittedly I found quite fun, as it reminded me of manual driving - apparently the PIS in my car has been set to something like 4.6 or 4.8. The thing I am less impressed with so far is pick up and pull away. It just isn't any different for me? My car needs at least 2k revs to get it moving without looking like a learner driver. Pulling away at 1-1.5k revs just initiates a heavy sluggish crawl and multiple bites by the car. I realise this may call for a lower PIS but at what point do you lose the ability to engage reverse gear? What's the lowest / best PIS for both easy pick up / pull away and successful reverse engagement? My one modification wish (and I know it is possible via Eric Decoux's mod) / general wish is for a bumpy road mode. I want those constant Sport Mode blips without the horribly crashy ride. Does anyone know if there's someone in the UK is doing that suspension switch / bumpy road mode mod?
You need to set the PIS when the transaxle is hot and the output shaft is at zero revolution. That is the correct way to set it without interfering with the reverse gear engagement.
Thanks Mello. All beyond me but yes, I think I need to take her to another shop to get the PIS actually sorted.
It's not much effort to set it correctly as long as the mechanic have the right diagnostic tool and knows what he's doing. I use AutoEnginuity and set the PIS after a good 20 miles drive on the highway. Setting the PIS only takes about 5-10 minutes. Wish you the best of luck.
I should also add.. When cold, my car flares like a total bish reversing out of the drive. It's not an uphill reverse, just normal road camber I just bump it as best as I can and get to 1st as soon as a turning circle is available I was expecting that to be WAY better but alas, I still have work to do here
No surprise on the RPM. Idle is 1000-1100 so setting the PIS such that it bites there it is WAY too tight; when the system is hot it drags all of the time wearing the clutch and interfering with R selection. The Clap when you lift to shift is no surprise either. That is the actuator slamming it into gear and the gears aren't in sync because you confused the TCU. The clap sound is the gears hitting with a less than graceful engagement. Pretty much a sure way to accelerate transaxle wear and/or chip gears. You observed this in R but somehow expect different behavior in normal mode? PIS around 4.6 is in the ballpark. As for your R out of the drive. I think most use way too much throttle. Ease it on and back up. It will slip but you wouldn't hit the gas and modulate the clutch to control speed so why do it in this car? When people say use some gas to get engagement they actually mean don't be too timid, get it rolling and then feather off to engage. They don't mean, hit the gas then back off. Of course in R it doesn't fully engage so ease it on and let it coast bumping as needed to keep it moving.
Cheers Skid! More positive news than negative here, I think! Yes, that is true. I noticed idle was at 1k. Forgot that bit! so perhaps it makes sense to use 2k to pull away? I have sport cats and valves disengaged, so perhaps it is just a little more noise than it feels like it should be as opposed to too many revs? Obviously with a new clutch, it's natural to want to baby it at first Interesting re the clap noise. There's a ton of conflicting info re lift off or don't.. Hearing this, I'd say lifting off should just be avoided full stop. Certainly no clap noises when you keep your foot in And yes, guess I'll keep on bumping and creeping as needed in reverse
Cheers! you are on the right path. To start moving, I ease on, then feather off to promote engagement. From then on, shift without a care. Neutral throttle (not on or off) will create no clunk and a smooth shift. When I am on it hard, I assume it will grab and not be super smooth. FWIW I had my 360 for 13 years before changing to a 599 and I used it as my DD so I have a lot of experience with the F1. R is just a really tall gear (much too tall for R) so there isn't a great answer; you can only mitigate. Of course the guidance to set up the PIS when hot and to just enough that the output shaft doesn't move is the correct answer. Most don't set up their system correctly so they get poor clutch life and there are never ending threads on that subject. Last thing, it doesn't engage or shift great until it is warmed up. Enjoy the car.
