Steve, Please share. I also would love to hear how you bleed the system. I bought one of those air powered vacuum things that collapse the lines to prevent air (I never tried it yet, I don't know how well it works). I'm not sure that it will work well with the Ferrari because it has hard piping going from the front radiators back. I'm due to do this service next year, and would love to have a plan before I dove in.
Ok; here it is. I only used it once. Hope someone else trys it, and I can edit as required. It looks more complicated than it is, because I'm trying to: 1. Bottle the old coolant, instead of letting it drain into the ground water 2. Actually "flush" the system, as opposed to just R&R the fluid 3. Avoid trapped air 4. Not bleed the coolant while the engine is running (for safety reasons) If you don't care about the four items above, there are much easier ways R&R the coolant. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks, that's great info! I don't need to change it until next year, but I'll definitely reference this when it's time. The only difference is that I'll probably go the drain and refill route with the same coolant. I feel like if it's changed frequently enough, I probably don't need to do full flushes. By the way, I couldn't see it in the instructions, but how do you get to the bleeder screw? I never tried to look for it, but is it accessed through the top, or does one remove the under panel and reach up? Or is it accessed through the panel behind the seats?
The bleeder is accessed from the engine compartment. I put a picture at the top of the second page of the procedure; does it not render on your screen? Here's what it looks like to me: Image Unavailable, Please Login
I saw that, I just wasn't sure if it was reachable by a human. If it's in the front, under the power steering reservoir, It's going to be tough. I find it hard enough to check the steering fluid without leaning on the car. Does one have to actually crawl into the engine compartment first? I didn't go out to look at the car, maybe I should just look, then ask if I don't see it.
It's an awkward reach, for sure; somewhat similar to checking the PS fluid. Here's another illustration, to give you an idea of the spatial relationship. You won't be able to see it; you have to feel it. The T-handle tool makes it a little easier to manipulate the bleeder. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I bled mine through the engine access hatch behind the seats, but it wasn't easy. For one thing, the top edge of the access hatch is well below the thermostat, a disappointing discovery for me. The problem is that the "bleeder" is just an ordinary bolt with a sealing washer under the head, or at least the one on my car is. There isn't any kind of hole drilled through the bolt and it doesn't act like a valve as you might hope. It's just a bolt plugging a hole at the top of the thermostat housing. That means you have a choice of either trying to back it off and hope some air will escape around the threads (which I doubt will work) or you can remove it. Don't be fooled by the beautiful drawing of the part implying that it's as easy to access as the thermostat on a Chevy. The Ferrari bleeder screw is very well hidden and removing it along with the tiny sealing washer requires that the mechanic has some fancy fingers while working blind plus a prayer or two hoping you don't drop one part or the other. Cursing helps.
I was able to bleed both air and fluid by backing-off the screw (without removing it); FerrariDublin reports the same. BTW: The T-handle tool concept (for bleeding) is courtesy of FerrariDublin.
Thank you, that second photo really helps! I can probably put a boroscope in there and work like a surgeon. Lol I think loosening the bolt without removing it is more than enough to leak air out of it. It doesn't require much to create an air leak. I do have to admit that they should have designed it where the bolt was slit down the side to assist with the leak.
The 360 should get annual coolant changes (Zerex G-05). It's really the only way to check for heat-exchanger failure and cross-contamination with the gearbox. If you see anything floating in the pan, you'd better change the gearbox as well.
Use an Airlift, or similar, tool to create a vacuum to draw in the coolant. Collapsing the rubber hoses just indicates the creation of the vacuum and has nothing to do with hard or soft pipes. Just follow the directions that come with the tool. Very easy to use and no worry about air left in system. Can be used on any vehicle.
I always loosen the clamps on both pipes under the car and also remove the left side block drain. It is hard to avoid getting wet, but there is a fair amount in the block. There is also a drain plug on the other side, but it is obscured by the alternator. Once you have drained the left side, there won't be a lot left anyway. This gets most of it out. You can also drain the radiators, but there won't really be much left in them. Of course if you discover cross-contamination it will be time to change out the heat exchanger and flush absolutely everything.
Are there any airlift tools that do not require a compressed air supply? I do not have (or space for) a compressor.
The least expensive method might be to buy a cheap vacuum pump ($100 on ebay). These pumps weigh about 10 lbs. and can generate between 26-28 inches of vacuum. The oilless diaphragm pumps are the most reliable. One change you'll have to make to use a vacuum pump is to have an accumulator jar between the pump and the source or coolant will enter into the pump, destroying it.
Even for a small portable? For under $200 US Amazon and Home Depot both have pretty good uits. You can use for tire inflations etc.
I was assuming the air lifts needed a decent air flow rate to create the vacuum...... I need to be less lazy and see what the spec sheet says in terms of flow rate. I was hoping there was something like my Sealey pressure brake bleeder that I could hand pump. For those wondering about my lack of space comment I have about 12” all around the car in the garage and push it in.....the Uk is a lot more crowded
