Hello all, As previously stated, as this registry still does not yet reside on a web site, I will continue to post updates here at Ferrarichat.com and have it on google at https://drive.google.com/open?id=1g6jT6V_T6Uya1y4vup5NU09jfApKwjqW . Again, the registry’s overall objective is to one day possess information on all known Ferrari 365 GT 2+2. Its sole purpose is to be a reference for those who either possess these cars or are interested in its history. To date, I have only reported cars whose VIN I validated through for sale ads, chat postings or owner’s information that was provided to me. On this revision, the total number of VINs has grown from 169 to a total of 323. Of this total, 110 of these represent cars that were (or still are) for sale over the past 10 years or so. Naturally, on these cars, a good amount of information is available (which I am hoping to publish with the registry once a site is up and running). Of course, it would be fantastic if each car on the registry had substantial information in its file (but that is not the case). I welcome any and all input on any 365 GT 2+2. If you wish the list to be updated, if there are errors and/or omissions, please provide the required information to me via email to [email protected], with the heading: "Ferrari 365 GT 2+2 update". The ideal, ultimate objective is to identify all models ever produced (running or not, existing or not). Naturally, it’s a lofty goal…I believe appropriate considering we are talking about a real Enzo’s era Ferrari! Sincerely, Stefano [email protected] Explanation of Registry Data The information on the registry is based on picture(s) observations or description of the car available from statements made about the car. Thus, empty fields signify that I did not have either any picture to review or could not find any description of car. While good information is available from Raab’s, Ferrari Serial Numbers Part I, at this stage, I have not opted to cross reference the two. Registry Fields · Chassis = Serial number of car · Exterior color = existing current color of car · Interior color = existing current color of leather seats of car · License Plate = license plate · Km/miles = mileage either from picture or description · Wheels = Campagnolo, Borrani, 5 Star Ferrari Cromodora · Version = European, Right Hand Drive (RHD)or USA (US version). At the moment, conversions, automatic or ? not being called out · Where = Presumed location of car based on information available Please note that I have removed the year. Both for sale ads or other available information seems to contradict a production year criteria, so I am at a bit of a loss at the moment.
One correction: 12327 is now silver (argento), and is no longer red. Argento was it's original color. Did you start with the listing from Raab's book?
Don, thank you. I have updated the registry and next time I publish it the corrected information should be reflected. I did not initially start with Raab, only because part of the exercise is identifying/finding the cars that are still around (the list is still very incomplete). However, I am now checking those i find against Raab to see if he lists them, and, so far he is (as was to be expected) 100% accurate. Is the new gray the original grigio metallizato? Lastly, would love to get a picture or two of the car as it looks today. You may also opt to send them to my email at [email protected]. Sincerely, Stefano
Stefano, I'm the owner of Ferrari 365GT #11927 (Marrone Metallizzato/Black, Campagnolo wheels) since 2013 and have just sent you an email with my car details. Thanks for your effort!
Hi Stefano, a few days ago I published this post on 365 GT 2+2 chassis number 11975 (Dutch registration 57-81-PR). I don't know if you already knew the car. There are many photos of this car on the net. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/149119801/
This Swiss Queen Mary just became available after 16 years: https://lutziger-classiccars.com/fahrzeuge/ferrari-365-gt-22-15-03-1969-silber-118170-km/ Supposedly the 215th built and originally delivered through S.A.V.A.F.
11753 was displayed at the recent Swiss Classic World in Lucerne, Switzerland. It's been with the same owner H.L. for the last 16 years. Marcel Massini
I'm awaiting news on an offer I've made for a 1969 365GT 2+2 - visually and acoustically my teen-dream car. I'm attempting to anticipate what I will need to do to if the offer is accepted: 1) Drive from Santa Barbara to Seattle - the scenic route - if the only scenery I see is the back of a Winnebago, then I may just beat it home. I plan to have a co-driver that isn't my spouse - either my nephew or a fellow that I used to rally with. Average day 300 to 400 miles. Serendipity expected, but all my other road trips as a single adult have been aimed at minimum elapsed time. If I've got a beautiful car - it's time to "stop and smell the roses" but I'll probably revert to my old 600 + miles per day. Yes I do have AAA, and I will have insurance coverage for liability and comprehensive before I drive anywhere except for the acceptance testing. What auto products or tools would you pack for a leisurely 1200 mile vacation-like trip?2) Keep the car garaged in best condition with monthly 100+ mile runs to get the engine temp up and hold it there for at least an hour. 3) I doubt that this car has been re-plumbed to accept 10% EthanoI, so I plan to use Shell V+ premium, as it's the only ethanol-free gas I can find. I have all kinds of questions about lubricants and things like keeping body gaskets from going brittle and failing. I've been thinking that I would use a synthetic 20-50 for the oil and change it every year, but it seems that for the driving regime planned, I would be better off using good ol' SAE 20-50W.This would be my first "hobby car" - but it's a hell of a car - Ferrari V-12, 5-speed manual, wire wheels, RED! I can see that this isn't the most active forum - I hope some of you will find this. If the WEBMASTER/moderator is listening, it would be great if the threads were listed with the most recent first. Paging through 2 pages of threads from 2013 should convince anyone of this. Wish me luck/smooth sailing on the purchase, etc. Best - Ed
365GTs are awesome. I'm coming up on 30 years of ownership of mine. Regarding the gas, I wouldn't be too worried about ethanol. Sure, avoid it when you can, but assuming the carbs have been rebuild any time in the last 20 or so years, they should be fine. When I bought my car, the previous owner insisted that it had to have leaded gas, and he had a special station which (in 1993) still sold leaded premium. Well, a year or two later, no more leaded premium... yet the car is still here.
Using a synthetic was my first inclination, but I see that with my plans to drive the car monthly and put about 1500 miles on it - no point in using a synthetic. I wondered if 10-40W might be a better choice for a cooler climate like Seattle. The 1969 I made offer on was withdrawn from the sale. I found a nice 1970 GT365 2+2 for $22K and I've placed earnest money on it. I hope to consummate the sale next week. I don't know who my shipper will be or when she could pick up the car. I was planning to drive the 1969 car from Santa Barbara to Seattle; the 1970 car is in Las Vegas. The best routes travel a lot of 2-lane and lots of road with no cell coverage.
Excellent guess! The documentation and my exchanges with the dealer have me confident about the purchase.
The waiting is the hardest part. I've just completed most of the sale for s/n 13121 (1970) except for the funds transfer that will happen Monday or Tuesday. The shipper hasn't been selected yet, but with things like Barrett-Jackson happening in Vegas, I imagine there would be a fair amount of competition for the classic car hauling business. I know that everything "Ferrari" costs more that run-of-the mill cars. I have not had opportunity to examine the exhaust system. Is the exhaust system for 365 GT 2+2 made of stainless steel? For what new ones cost I would expect that to be the case. If the aftermarket stuff isn't stainless, then it's REALLY overpriced ($4K for parts). If the cars came with stainless steel from the factory, then I won't worry. Photos and registry when car arrives - should be less than 2 weeks.
I don't know what the factory used, but I'm pretty sure it was not stainless. However, just about any car which has been consistently driven over the years would have a stainless system on it by now, I would think. I know I put a custom stainless one (made by a local exhaust shop) on mine about 20-25 years ago.
DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC castrol gtx 20w-50 is what i use i believe all of these care were ansa systems which i believe were alum and the mufflers and resonators rust like you wont believe, in period i believe most were drilled to let condensation out. Timevalve i believe has the templates and can easily make a full stainless system for these cars. I had and "incident" with a leaky rear air suspension (frequent replacements for the koni self levelers) and a very elevated man hole cover and slightly higher than posted speeds and crunched the drivers side exhause. Timevalve was able to fabricate that section easily they are great fun and usable cars but 100 miles a month as a goal is great but.... life gets in the way (also a lot of other vintage cars do too)
New question: Car cover. The car will be housed in a residential garage. I took a look at the ceiling and saw evidence of leaks. I decided I need a car cover - probably not a bad idea if I ever take it on the road. I doubt that many companies stock car covers for our 365GT's. It would be great if I could use a cover for a contemporary car cover, but I have no idea what that car would be. If you know please tell me. Recommendations on companies that make custom covers is the alternative. I need to have measurements. Recommendations for cover composition would be useful - I know from experience that Tyvek doesn't cut it for more than a week or two. Thanks for the pointer on the oil and the exhaust. I plan to use the Castrol GTX 20W-50.
Anticipation: I just received notice that my Ferrari is supposed to be delivered on Sunday.. Now I have to wade through title, tax, license with Washington state - what a drag but it must be done. I've found a garage and a mechanic. I'll have the mechanic check out the car before I go motoring, but I think it's in good operating condition - (Gary Larsen - "On the Internet, nobody knows your a dog" - famous cartoon). My examination of the (residential) garage that I'm renting revealed evidence that the roof leaked at some time. I'm looking for a car cover, but I cant one to fit a 365GT 2+2. Recommendations welcome - Is there a contemporary car like a Subaru BRZ. I'm still trying to wrap my head around 2 gallon oil changes. I plan to drive 1500 - 2000 miles per year. Do you other 365 owners change oil by milage or time? Annual changes seem like an extravagance; I'd like to know what other cars with covers that fit a 2+2
yearly 16 quart and 2 filter change... no affiliation and my memory may be off but i think carcovers.com and a lot of those sites do have an option for the 365... they are not form fitting or sexy covers but the "cover" the job adequately
IT'S HERE! Delivered about 2 PM. I gave it a quick drive around the block and parked it in the carport. Two owners' manuals came with the car. Both in Italian, one has some English translation, but it's scanty. I'm having trouble figuring the switches on the dash board and I can't find the choke. If one of you has a "map" of the dash in English, I would be greateful for a copy. I don't know if you can do it here, so email is [email protected]. Plan is for insurance tomorrow, tax, title, license on Tuesday, Wednesday it goes to is't new home (rented garage) about a 20-minute drive away. I would really like to know how to turn the headlights on. Please bear with me - I'm a first-timer. Thanks - Ed
I change the oil in my 365GT every year, or 3000 miles depending on which comes first (usually the year). My car came with a non-fitted cover, but I agree that you should be able to find something. As for the manuals, they were famously poor translations. I believe the switches should be: M - "magneto" or ignition-- if the switch isn't on (down), the car won't start A - "Autoflux"-- electric fuel pump. Needs to be on for start, and hot weather. A blue light on the dash should come on when the switch is on. My car is wired so that the electric pump runs all the time. Dl - interior fan on the left side R - Rear window defogger Dr - interior fan on the right side Li - interior light E - emergency flashers Hope this helps!
@donv Thanks! That helps. I still don't know how to operate the headlights, but I don't plan to drive at night - but there are things like rain that make headlights useful. I need to figure out the windshield wipers as well. It arrived yesterday and I'm waiting for the Nevada title so I can register it with Washington and insure it. Nothing like having the car to find out what you missed in buying. List so far: Passenger door won't stay open - no stop/detent. Carpets are sagged at bottom of dash. Gas gage is faulty - reads 1/4 full with tank topped off. I can't find a prop or anything to keep the hood open. I don't know if these are worth fixing, but I'd appreciate advice.
