Ok so for those of us who drive the cars you must know that this car puts out massive amounts of heat just like my 512 TR does The main difference is that the 512 has a vented engine cover and the bottom of the car is open as well There is none of this on the 575, and if you ever shot an IR gun at you engine compartment you will see temps in the 190-250 range So after every run when I park it I raise the hood to vent the engine compartment I even do this on the 512 Heat trapped heat kills all those small fiberglass connections you can’t see on your car The 355 360/430/550/612 etc crowd has the same issue Just a recommendation It’s what I do and I’ve been around the cars for a long time Highly recommend you doing it as well
Just be careful with repeated regular use of the hood release. It's not very well engineered and gets a bit fragile with age. The lever/grab handle assembly will snap where the cable attaches to the lever....ask me how I know. Replacement parts are no longer in production and essentially unavailable.
I have a Japanese car, so in kms.... 57500 kms as of writing and a fresh major as of last week! Many more miles going on it in short order Would rather have a hood latch issue then hose, rubber, electrical issues any day, not to say they wont appear, however, may improve / delay those gremlin affects, time will tell Thanks for the advice, never considered this Happy driving
On my 550: In place of the "standard" heat barrier between the coolant overflow tank and the battery (long lost on my car, and unobtanium), I put in a simple flat piece from a Styrofoam cooler. There is so much heat in there that the Styrofoam warped.
I was able to get a shield that goes around the battery to insulated from the engine compartment heat which is excessive And it’s not only on the V-12s it’s the 8s as well the 355/360/430/458/488 all have this trapped heat issue that bakes those components
I do the same with my 550 hood after each drive. The heat raises the ambient temperature of my 3-car garage to uncomfortable level.
The guys that really have a heat issue are the late model V-8 crowd 360-458 Most if not all of the back end is covered with little or no where for the heat to go The bottom is sealed off as well And that hot engine is right on top of the transaxle with all those hoses The transmission becomes a huge heat sink with that F-1 transmission is right there and those bullet proof electronic connections I am sorry that can’t be good At least the 550/575 has its own transaxle radiator Every time I meet up with one of those owners I show them how much heat the engine compartment retains I am bringing my IR gun next time so they can see it
You are absolutely right. The heat have no place to escape. This is also a fact during slow speed driving. It reduce the speed of the air through the radiator aswell. I just put on a digital temp gauge (temporarily) to see the actual temps. When running 100 kph. the air is just slightly warmer than outside. In stop and go traffic, the temp inside the engine compartment is 70-95 degrees Celsius!! And it stay like that forever after the engine is switched off... Actually the car should have had louver vents somewhere to make the air circulate. Not easy to make with a good looking result. But all modern fast cars have it. Another thing on the 456/550/575 is that because of the angle of the radiator, the heat is also pushed down under the engine!! So the whole car is heated. Making AC neccesary even If the outside temp is not very high....Try to hold your hand outside the side fender air outlets. Not much heat comes out...
Your assessment is spot on across the board And I want to thank you for doing that on board testing with your remote temperature sensor I only hope others who have these cars take heed about the high temperatures that these cars and definitely the V-8 models make with no where for the heat to escape At least when you are driving you create a minor Venturi effect to assist in venting some of the heat out Even when I fuel the car I raise the hood to allow the heat to escape, any chance I get the hood comes up after vehicle operation I never really took in consideration of the slanted radiator effect, interesting The underside engine cover has small vents, but not large enough in my opinion to assist in venting the engine compartment while the car is moving, but I guess something is better than nothing I personally think they are there in the event you experience a leak you can eventually see it on the floor Actually this engine installation reminds me of the Jaguar XKE with the V-12 in it, very tight, but with one exception Ferrari at least got the engine cooling right. I’ve been to New Orleans this summer with OAT of 98 and heat indexes well over 100 and the engine temps of the car remain normal even in stop and go traffic, they seem to have gotten it right even with the A/C on But silicon hoses are a must since in this car, since in my opinion that will be where a failure will occur, a burst hose due to heat stress I will be driving my car in northern climates in about 40 days where temperatures will be below 50 degrees OAT or lower Will be curious on under hood temperatures in that environment I know this will sound strange but I am hoping for light snow and sleet so I can see how this car handles the weather environment So stay tuned I will post it on the 550/575 forum I’ve already started a thread there 575 on the move Once again thanks for the test
I live in Las Vegas where it really gets hot and have a 550 Maranello, so to keep the engine and compartment cool I used a hole saw and made 6 holes in the under tray rite below the exhaust manifolds. Now I can get caught in stop and go traffic on a 110 Deg. with the A/C on without the engine getting hot and the interior of the car staying cool, This was tested on a ten mile stretch between Jean Nevada and the CA. state line and it worked fine. Chuck Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You can get the louvered screens at Lowes for about $2.50 each unless you insist on getting them in yellow boxes, and in that case I can get them for you for $98.00 for the pair and I will even paint them black. Chuck
Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Ok so I made a heat shield for my battery on the 575 Image Unavailable, Please Login hopefully the picture came out better But here is the real issue I uncovered My battery was replaced when I bought the car, so when I installed my heat shield to the battery I noticed the high voltage line was routed under the coolant recovery tank Guys this wire is just wrapped in tape and is crucial to the operation of the vehicle, with it laying on the very hot coolant recovery tank it would only be a matter time before something went south electrical wise Image Unavailable, Please Login Here is how I re routed my cable around the coolant tank. I would highly recommend you take off the shield and see where that wrapped cable is located by In fact I plan to wrap mine with reflective heat tubing this week since it’s so important to the vehicle operation
Agreed Taz, however that wire bundle is also in the vicinity of the engine heat which is substantially more than the 200 degrees With the age of theses vehicles I can’t see it hurting anything shielding that wire bundle that is so important to the cars operation For me it’s worth the effort knowing that I am giving it a little more of an edge in surviving in such a heat intensive environment The same goes for the battery
He got it from me however that unit is not applicable to a 575 due to the 575 having drive by wire throttle control. You might try these people http://www.rostra.com/custom-drive-by-wire-aftermarket-cruise-control-by-rostra.php
Good call I just bought a complete replacement unit part # 6608900 from https://www.eurospares.co.uk/cars-breaking-for-spares/ferrari/ they had a new one They currently have several 550/575’s that have almost every part one could think of for a 550/575 A great source for these cars I’ve bought from them before excellent service Hope this helps
Did yours snap at the cable attachment or the legs? I've seen several that snap above the horizontal bar (breaking the legs off). I have a CAD model of one reinforced in the leg area. sjd
These cars should have a secondary fan system that sucks heat out of the engine compartment for 10 minutes if neccesary. It would also help to get flow go faster through the radiator. I would like to do the same for the cabin. When the car is left in the sun, it become so hot that it damage the interior and it is very uncomfortable to get in and drive. That is also why I have two batteries in my 550... Because when the parallell switch is off, the «cabin ventilator fan» shall be able to ventilate the cabin continiously and draw power from the rear battery. That way, If it goes flat, the car will still have the same amount of power on the forward battery and start like normal. That no car have that is beyond my understanding.
