And this is the same side as the vacuum hose or does it run on the other side with the A/C lines? Lester
I have always been of the mindset that when they are apart, replace everything you can associated with the tear down. Good luck with the project.
I use nylon rope and put jell lube compound that electrician's pull wire thru metal conduit ( Lowes- Home depot) on outside of hose's when we do one of these jobs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I still don't get it.What's the purpose of that procedure with steel cable or nylon rope through the hose? Why not simply connect the old with the new hose and pulling through the new one with the help of the old one? That was the way I did the job and it worked with a helper who pushed on the front while I pulled on the rear. Best from Germany Martin
Martin, my hoses were quite dry rotten/brittle and I didn't want to risk them breaking at the join so I just attached the aircraft cable to them, pulled them out and then used the aircraft cables to pull through the new hoses. I'm sure your way would work >95% of the time.
Martin- we use nylon rope as a backup if you have one of those - Oh s**t moments. Nylon is pulled thru first with a phising wire, and is there as a backup in case hose's come apart. We also go from rear to front. But to each their own
Afternoon Martin, Nice hearing from you. I use a steel cable because it's a tight pull, specially because you have the gas tank in the middle and there is a curve on the hose at that point. How would you hold both hoses together... with a fitting and clamps? That would end up tangled up somewhere inside, and now what!!! As said before, it's a tight pull...could be very tight. Just my experience when I replaced mine and I did need help feeding the new hose into place. Best from Spain... hitting for the coast this afternoon it's like 39 Celsius. John
… I have been following this thread with great interest. The connection of this hose to my engine was weeping and when redoing it I discovered that the hose is in terrible shape. I can't quite find the courage to try to replace the hose.
Thank you everyone! I'm thinking of replacing the coolant and vacuum hoses running through the bodywork (like in Todd's Post 29) since I have things pretty far apart at this point. Based on what I can find on this forum, the long vacuum hose is 1/2 inch (13mm) ID. I'm unsure what the coolant hose diameter is, but will post that up once I figure it out. On the other work, I received the brass fuel injectors and some other parts this week, still waiting on injector seals and some other gaskets / hoses I ordered. I had to go to 4 different sources to obtain all the hoses for replacement (fuel, coolant, EGR, evap etc.). I'm hoping to get the timing belts/tensioners installed this weekend, then start putting things back together. Planning to not re-install the A/C compressor as the system is currently devoid of gas and I don't plan on running the marginal AC here in temperate Oregon (I have a separate post going on this topic). I'll post my (slow) progress over the coming weeks in the hopes it is useful for others now or in the future. Thanks again!!! Mike
Also, Brian, the long coolant hose on my car was crumbling on the engine-side, but looks pretty good down by the wheel and further forward. You might be able to just splice in a couple feet of new hose on the engine side of things and call it good.
Hi John, I turned a sharply barbed connector on the lathe, which literally did bite on the inside and which was impossible to remove again by pulling. Had to cut it off after the hose was pulled through. Best Martin
I installed a metal water line coupler that was about the inside size of both hoses and after drilling several small hole's thru the hoses and the coupler tied the new hoses to the old with steel wire then wrapped in duct tape so no wire sticking out to get caught on something. After lubing the crap out of the tight corner in the engine bay with dish soap, I fed from the rear with the hoses coming into the engine bay from above, and pulled from the front. Every couple of feet I went back and pushed a bit from the rear. I had the hoses pulled in about 15 minutes by myself.
Mixedgas, I sent you a PM concerning your broken hose barb , # 26 in your previous post in this thread.
Hi there, making slow progress on repairing the leaking coolant hose under the intake plenum. I only get about an hour or 2 each evening - slow and steady. Also, I decided to change the timing belts/tensioners "while I was in there." I had the radiator rodded out / cleaned up and replaced all the hoses with the SRI kit (coolant as well as fuel). I installed the coolant drain / auto bleed kit from Robert on this forum as well. I had my machine shop install the new stainless nipple for the culprit leak, so that is progress. Planning to button up the cooling system in the next couple of days, then reassemble the plenum, replace a few more hoses and fingers crossed fire the car up! I really enjoy working on this Ferrari. After several years working on Citroen, the Ferrari seems simple and superbly designed! Lastly, a million thanks for the wisdom and kindness contained in the pages of this forum! -Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login
View attachment 2805255 Image Unavailable, Please Login View attachment 2805257 View attachment 2805258 This is how I did it, on a GT4, vaccuum hose. Cut away half of the material, insert something that can grab on the inside, two small hose clamps and some tape. Same outer diameter as the hoses. Pull. I used a threaded tube from a lamp i had. /Peter