430 Do I need to replace my flywheel?

It looks rough, but going from photos is not really the way to evaluate it.

Whatever you do I advise changing the rear main oil seal and the crank spigot bearing - it looks like your seal has already started to weep. They are cheap parts that can and do fail and require another gearbox off job to change.

 

Is it flat over the face, is it showing signs of overheating, is it worn. If not i would use it again.
Beware of dealers trying to flog u a new one if not needed

 

It provides additional support for the end of the gearbox input shaft.

 

In the US, it's called a pilot bearing. It gives the long input shaft of the gearbox something to rest on and not gets bent out of shape. As for the flywheel, if you see micro cracks, replace it. Otherwise, measure its thickness after machining to see if it is in specs. There is a flywheel thickness spec.

 

When my 360 needed a clutch, I considered a Kevlar clutch. I called a company in Western US (sorry I cannot remember who it was) to discuss the Kevlar vs. stock. We spoke about the flywheel and his comment is that "90 percent of flywheels are just fine and do not need any work". Hope this helps.

 

Whether you think it's fine or not, the prudent thing to do is send it out for resurfacing. You always put a new clutch on a perfectly machined surface.
The Kevlar clutch guy is an idiot.

 

I went ahead and replaced my flywheel along with getting a new clutch plate. At 25K miles, it was a better-safe-than-sorry decision. On my BMW bikes, the clutch plate and pressure plates are always replaced at the same time, so why not? It's not a million dollar part and you already have the transmission out anyway.

 

Nonsense.

The flywheels warp badly. It turns bowl shaped. The old clutch wears to the shape but putting a new clutch on it is a real mistake. It will never work right.

 

Well, I pulled out my receipt from when I had my clutch on the 360 replaced by the dealer (I went with a stock clutch not Kevlar and had the work done by a Ferrari dealership). The work order does not state any flywheel work. My clutch was replaced over 11K miles ago and worked great until I traded the car in last month. Is there not a way to test the flywheel to see if it is warped before spending money?

 

Interesting- that has surprised me

 

They are always warped.

Resurfacing a flywheel has been SOP during a clutch change forever and is a very small part of the bill. Why would anyone interested in doing quality repairs skip such a simple, basic and standard step for the sake of a few dollars?

 

Sounds good. If it was a small cost, they may have just buried it with labor or another line item.

 

If memory serves me, my new flywheel (360) was 4,500 Canadian$ eight or ten years ago. Just for the flywheel. That was at F of Vancouver. That said, there is nearly 50km more on the car now for a total of 80km and it still works perfectly. It sees red line lots every time I drive it, just not at launch. While it's apart replace it all and forget about it. Peace of mind in these toys is priceless. (Gated)

 

I guess those that think that it is not necessary to resurface or replace a flywheel when installing a new clutch also think they can just throw new brake pads on a used brake rotor without replacing or resurfacing the rotor. Yeah right

 

I almost always just replace the pads if the rotors are normally worn for street cars.
If you bring the rotors in for resurfacing most of the time the shop says they are worn beyond limits. I think the mfgs set the limits not only to reduce liability but to sell parts.
Carrol Smith advised replacing rotors OR pads not both.
Obviously if both are really worn replace both.

Yes a simple resurfacing of the flywheel is cheap and easy while the engine is out.

 

I believe it is tapered.

 

The flywheel on a 360 was tapered at one time but then changed back to flat.
Refer to the following. Post 23 has a good explanation
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/360-f-1-off-the-line-clutch-actuation.560514/#post-145580848

 

Or the shop wants to sell rotors. I almost never see a rotor worn beyond limits. You see, I actually measure them.

Not surfacing may be just fine with a human at the controls, we can adapt, the computer controlling the clutch has no such ability.

 

So what causes a flywheel to warp, and then what happens when you face a warped flywheel resulting in non-uniform thickness?

 

I can’t comment on the flywheel but it’s is not necessary to automatically replace rotors when replacing pads. If they are warped, cracked or worn beyond limit then sure but otherwise just clean and carry on.

 

Maybe I am old school. Any time new brake pads are put on any of my vehicles, the rotors are resurfaced or replaced. I have never seen a used steel rotor which did not have surface degradation of some sort. If you want 100% surface contact from the brake pads then the rotors must be a machined flat surface.
Resurfacing will also remove any high or low spots on the rotor thus eliminating brake peddle pulsing.

My two cents worth.

 

You’re free to do what you want but manufacturers stamp the minimum thickness on rotors for a reason. Unless damaged or warped they only need replacing when approaching that thickness. Brake cleaner will remove old pad material and if you follow a proper pad bed in procedure then not only will material transfer happen correctly but any light grooves will be adopted by the new pad ensuring 100% mating. I’ve been maintaining and racing cars for 30 years and rotors typically last 3 or 4 pad cycles. If you’re experiencing excessive rotor wear you may be leaving pads in too long causing the damage.