Wax removal question

50 percent alcohol and water

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That, or you could spend a little on something like Griots Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner. The alcohol/water mix should handle a thin coat of most any wax/sealant

 

I’d do the opposite. Wash / dry first, then wipe with the alcohol mix using a quality microfiber cloth.

 

Wash
Iron remover
Clay
Polish first to remove swirls
Alcohol
Ceramic


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Hope that works out.

Scared me though.

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I’d like to remove @wax from all FerrariChat questions, please.



Matt

 

Just to add to my posts here - white mineral spirits is something that I heard works very well ..some professionals say better than alcohol
Although you think these is no need .. i would highly suggest the iron remover and clay bar before ceramic even if you feel you do not need to polish

MY 2 Cents

 

I also forgot .. Dawn mixed with car soap will also strip wax



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Dawn is damaging to clear coat. It has micro beads which are abrasive and generate fine scratches and swirls.

 

Just polish it to remove any wax or sealant.

 

I think we are speaking about two different formulas

I can add that duplicolor wax remover can be considered as well

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Companies like Pro Form produce a product called “Wax and Grease Remover”.

Products like this are specifically designed for the purpose intended. They are powerful enough to remove the wax, but gentle enough to not damage the substrate. Given the many paint manufacturers and paint types on the market, ALWAYS conduct a test patch to confirm there are no adverse effects to the paint.

These products are reasonably priced and available through most autobody supply companies.

Hope this helps.

 

Dawn dish detergent works very well removing wax and grease, then after it's dry you can use 91% Iso alcohol you can buy at the drugstore for a final wipe.

 

Here's the thing... Dawn will remove wax through the physical, not chemical properties of the liquid.

Wax removers use the chemical properties, not the physical. They also flash off quickly and are neutralized with water or soap and water.

 

Stop. Before you even think about applying a ceramic coating it takes a rigorous prep to clay, buff and prep the surface of any microscopic imperfections so as to avoid sealing them into the paint with the ceramic coating. Wax is not the only issue you have to worry about, it's want imperfections are under the wax now, before you contemplate any ceramic coating.I have been doing this my restorations for years.
Let me give you an example that will undoubtedly prove my point, first take the cellophane wrapper from a any pack of cigarettes, then place your pointer finger an the one next to it inside the cellophane, and gently wipe the paint surface of your car. YOU WILL BE SHOCKED... your paint and current wax job which you feel looks great will turn you stomach when you feel all the imperfections on the surface you just wiped.
That alone should give you an idea of why I recommend you make an investment and take your vehicle to a professional detailer that has experience with the application of ANY ceramic coating. You will remember reading my reply the moment you do the cellophane test.
The car is a work of art and as such you would not try to frame any work of art on your own, you would use a frame shop.
Follow my thinking? Do the test and you will be glad you did.
Hope this works out best for you,
Jack

 

According to my detailer here is what he says about this:

D'elegance Detailing 619-718-0031

"First lets address the "wax" assumption. Does the owner know without a shadow of a doubt it is wax, and if so what kind of wax is it cause there are different types of waxes? This will determine what methods can be used to just remove the wax. Now if the owner is talking about doing that for the purpose of putting a ceramic coating on it, I would highly recommend taking it to a professional because every amateur I have ever come across and even a lot of self proclaimed professionals do not know how to properly prep and install a ceramic coating. It is often times a meticulous process.

Now assuming it is a wax and you are prepping for ceramic coating, usually 9 times out of 10 even after I remove the wax it usually exposes scratches cause most waxes contain fillers which hide imperfections to the naked eye. So usually machine polishing/paint correction is needed anyway which that in itself removes the wax. So usually what I do is wash the vehicle with a shampoo that is designed to strip wax (if owner wants a waterless wash then I use a panel prep product that also helps strip the wax). Then I address any decontamination needed via the proper clay bar (most people use the wrong clay bar, and use it incorrectly which causes an abundance of paint marring which means more paint correction work that is needed), next is the particulate dissolver application which gets rid of contaminants a clay bar can not get. Once that process is done I do the paint correction application process which is tailored specifically to each car because every application is different. If you do not know what you are doing I highly advise you do not try to tackle this. If you do not have a good PTG, experience with correcting Ferrari paints, and solid experience and training behind polishing machinery then please do not try to do this on your own. Please take it to a professional. I can't tell you how many times I have had to fix those amateur jobs that they tried to DIY."

Hope that helps.

 

I kinda summed up what professionals say above

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Except it is not accurate and neither is the order. Well according to a professional anyway. It goes:

"-wash
-clay
-ferrous particulate remover
-paint correction (not just polish cause most applications will need much more than just polish hence why we dub this: paint correction)
professional panel prep solution (better than IPA) or a complete wash again. I do not just use IPA cause often times it does not fully remove all left over residue -from the paint correction application. Best way in removing residue is another complete foam bath or if you need to go water-less utilize a professional panel prep solution.
-ceramic or whatever paint protection you want"

 

I saw the title and wondered what you'd done now!!

 

Not debating you but if you look at some professional classes on detail I have the correct order ..searching the web it does seem like a common debate ..

My word "polish" meant paint correction .. but you are totally correct in clearing that up .. I may have caused confusion

A later post of my does mention using white mineral spirits or duplicolor wax Remover

So I think we pretty much agree on everything you said except for the clay vs ironx sequence

Any reason one should go before the other .. my thought is remove iron particles before clay to avoid more contamination on clay and possibly scratching car

Let clay remove any left over

And to be clear to everyone.. I am sure we both were including a rewash after clay ..

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Sorry I did not see your previous posts and was just going off of that one. I asked my detailer (D'elegance Detailing) regarding the clay and iron remover sequence. I have been through a lot of other detailers, and they are by far the best I have experienced. I think he has been in that industry for over 20 years and highly certified. Multiple certs from the IDA, Rupes, Meguiars, and multiple coating certs. So this info isn't coming from some newb in the industry.

"I know this has been debated widely across the board. I along with other industry leaders have personally done both ways for experimentation purposes to figure out which sequence is truly the best. Over several different types of vehicles, different applications including different paint types, different clay bars, different refold sequences, different temps, as well as different methodologies using both clay lubes and soapy water from the car wash sequence we all have found better more effective results doing clay first as opposed to a particulate dissolver first. Now there is always exceptions to the rule. That exception is if the vehicle or object you are working on has seen a high level of ferrous contaminants. Examples of these applications can be: train cars, vehicles that park right near train tracks or ferrous emitting industrial plants, and even equipment like tool boxes in a fabrication shop. These applications I would go straight to a particulate dissolver because of the abundance of high concentration ferrous particulates. So yes there is always exceptions to the rule, but overwhelming majority of applications would call for the clay app to be first. This is another reason why I ask these questions in my customer questionnaire process so it helps me in the diagnostic process.

Now why is the clay first? Because often times the ferrous particulates have embedded themselves into the paint and other contamination is covering that particulate. So if we were to do the particulate dissolver app first it would not even reach the underlying ferrous contaminants. So what we have seen is once we were done with particulate dissolver then clay we noticed an abundance of left over ferrous particulates. This is why we strip the application of all other contaminants first so the particulate dissolver app can be more effective."

Hope this helps.

 

Thank you

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