"How to: dash lights", finally

Paul -

Maybe it is my turn to help you! I had the same problem with my original steering wheel screws when I wanted to add a spacer. Someone turned me on to SockItOut (see my photo.) I got up the courage and used a hammer to drive the proper socket into the old screw. Then used a wrench on the SockItOut tool to get the screw to unseat and come out! Worked great. Hope it helps.

Chip
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

While I was traveling this summer [84 QV] I ran into the dreaded water temp gauge reading 15 or so degrees too high. I have checked that out completely now and can verify that the gauge is definitely the culprit, or more likely the connectivity to the gauge. I was wondering how to get all that out of the dash so I could clean up the wiring and test the gauge. I've already refreshed the engine bay side.

This thread gives me all I need to know as well as a lot more info on freshening up the lighting while I am in there.

Thank-you, thank-you, thank-you!

Paul

 

Did you ever resolve your Speedo/Tach lighting inconsistency? Several of us over in the Dino forum are planning to upgrade our instrument lighting with LED's and find what you've provided as invaluable.

 

Nice guide!

But I still can understand how you get the dashboard back on...! How do you manage to get thoose screws back in?

Also, imho it is very limited space when you want to pull out the dashboard. Please be cautious.

joy

 

Great post...I will be doing this!

 

Over the years, I have had to remove my steering wheel several times..my solution to the perinnial problem of these screws actually accumulating corrosion in situ, is to spray some penetrant on each screw head, let the chemical do the work, and then tap each screw head smartly once with a center punch..this has never failed me..clean the thread holes and repace with stainless screws and paint them black if you prefer..with a miminimal of Locketite, if any....Problem solved permanently. I hope that my online ettiquette is acceptable here...Thank you so very much. Jacques.

 

Great step by step instructions. Well done Antonio!

One point for those of you wrestling with taking the steering wheel off. I found myself in the same situation and I didn't want to wreck the screws holding the steering wheel on. At that point, I didn't have the advice that is given above for their removal. So I used the tilt adjustment to lower the wheel to its lowest position. (Yes, the 308 has a tilt wheel) Then I was able to remove the instrument panel without having to remove the steering wheel.

At some point I may do this instrument lighting replacement, it looks really nice. I don't really drive much at night, so my dim instruments haven't really been a problem, but maybe one day I will get a life and venture out after the sun sets...

 

Joy,

You get the screws back in by using one of these ...... < $9.00 from Craftsman. They come in different sizes and in Phillips heads too. Other makes/brands are also available.

Beware. The brackets on the back side of the instrument cluster can be easily broken off. DO NOT over tighten.(Don't ask how I know)

Just "snug" is more than good enough.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I am going to update my interior lights with the help from Magnum's posting. I have organized the post as best I can into chart form with specific model numbers. After I install the leds I will post pictures of the entite gauge cluster at night. Here is the chart in a PDF.
The model numbers are from a specific supplier.

A note about model #'s. This is only a guide so far, I do not know yet if these all fit until I do the install. I will update the progress and fitment ASAP
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I removed the four screws holding the Speedo/Tach plate and found I had a mix of screw types (M5 x 25 and sheet metal). Does anyone know what the proper screw type would be for a 1976 308GTB Vetroresina (USA)?

 

I found this a few years ago 2011 I think, I did this on my 328 and the results was good ! nice bright red numbers/ letter etc on tacho and speedo !

I found the LED bulbs at car accessory stores and some car electro mechanic dealers also keeps them.

 

Crowndog suggests Superbrightleds.com on Post #36. They are US based and I have used their bulbs when doing a LED conversion on my Alfa Montreal lights some time back. Domestic shipping is easy for us here in America, I am not sure what source you need to use from overseas
Wonderful work Antonio - MAGNUM! Thank you!!!

 

This is where I got my bulbs. Fit great. Good and bright. The t5 bulbs I had to make the stem of the bulb a little shorter with a bench grinder, they where a little long.
10x BA9S 1815 57 SMD LED Dash Instrument Panel Super White Light Bulb | eBay


2X T5 74 5 SMD SMT LED White Cluster Dash Board Instrument Panel Light Car Bulb | eBay

 

My dash illumination (but not warning/turn signal) lights went from dim to out altogether after having the leather replaced on the instrument binnacle

I'm guessing the problem is either a fuse or related to the rheostat connection.

While I'm in there... (famous last words), figured I'd do an LED swap since they were frustratingly dim before anyway. Three questions

1) Are LEDs dimmable or do you always bypass the rheostat as part of an LED swap?
2) Can you mix? I'm thinking of just replacing the night illumination and not the other lights.
3) If using the LEDs from superbrightleds.com (thanks for the chart crowndog), do you need to worry about or change polarity?

 

1. should be dimmable but you may find they shut off when you start to dim quite a bit (which you'll probably never do) as opposed to traditional bulbs that will just keep dimming down to nothing.

2. If you mean just changing the door handle lights or reading lights to LED without other lights, yes, no problem.

3. Depends on the LED circuitry that may or may not be built into the bulb base. Some can go in either way and others you just have to rotate the LED 180 degrees to get it to light. If the bulb holder is not symmetrical you may have to do some minor re-wiring to get the + and - where they belong.

 

I've posted this before but for those that missed it. Bipolar led bulbs are only needed for the red dot indicators within the gauge. Not the gauge lighting bulb.

 

I want to resurrect this thread to ask fellow Fchatters whether anyone opted to use color LEDs rather than "cool white"?

- Sam in Saratoga

 

Sam, I tried very hard to keep with in warm color the warm color spectrum. There were a couple where I couldn’t get the brightness. PM me and I’ll send you a spreadsheet of what I installed.

- Ron


Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat

 

Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat

 

Great write-up...well done...thanks

 

I tackled this project today. Things generally went well, except that:

1- My T5 wedge LEDs are a little too long and fat for the five lights that are mounted on the instrument cluster (hazard lights, alternator light, seat belt, cold engine warning, and heater fan light). I will try grinding to see if I can make it work.
2- For some reason, the high beam indicator and parking brake indicator do not light up. These sit on the tachometer gauge. I will reopen the gauge and take a look.
3- I did not properly mark the gold engine warning light and the alternator light. Now I don't know which is which. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an 83 QV? I want to look up the wire colors.

All in all, this is an upgrade that everyone with a 308 should do.


- Sam in Saratoga

 

For some reason, the parking brake light, the brake failure light, and the high beam indicator (all three sit on the bottom of the tachometer dial) do not work.

I will try to see if it is either a fuse or a related issue.

If anyone has thoughts or feedback, I would appreciate it.

- Sam in Saratoga

 

Sam since all three are out I would suspect a lack of proper ground. If not that then whatever bulbs you used are either reversed polarity or not making proper contact .


Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app