in a climate controlled facility. Wld you drain the oil? wont be able to change it.
Drain oil and gas if possible. Lower tire pressures and cover the interior and exhaust pipes so no animals decided to make it a home. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looking at using vp fuel or will drain. Its more the oil that I’m torn on. Shelf life of oil and filter is 5 to 10 yrs so Wldnt the metals be better off having the oil present? Stored in climate control with no temp fluctuation and no humidity is a pretty tame environment for the oil to hold up in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Before we make any kind of recommendations ....How many miles on oil ..were all trips prior mostly short trips or did car come up to full oil temp ? Although sounds long .. 3 years is not that big a deal in a climate controlled environment Tires , battery, bugs, and mositure is your biggest concern Tires should be put on thick foam and slightly over inflated to avoid flat spots.. even if you get them they will eventually work themselves out Battery on a good charger will most likely make it 3 years but not sure about 5 especially if it already has miles on it If on concrete .. put something down to avoid mositure from rising to underbody of car unless you have a exopy covering Oil ( based on Blackstone analysis) does not get old just sitting The reason I asked above if the oil is already contaminated it may change my suggestion If oil is fairly low mileage and always was brought up to temp when driven .. just leave it in .. And even if old .. by draining it you won't remove it from bearing .. they will hold the oil(designed that way) so not much benefit .. If you can drain it .. why not just out fresh oil in an start it up and run it before storing Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
I'm thinking some people think that used/contaminated oil would have acids in it which would/could corrode the inside of the engine, pan, crank or whatever. Most of the oil would be in the sump so that would be the area most effected and perhaps the crank. There would still be some oil/film in contact with other engine parts so its impossible to really get all the oil out so IMO not sure why one would do it either. As for gas I can tell people for a fact I have had 5+ year old gas treated with stabil in cars and zero issues upon pulling it out of storage.
I’ve never drained the oil when storing for that length of time. Don’t know anyone else who does either. I would drain the gas unless it’s treated.
https://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/how-to-prep-your-car-for-long-term-storage.html Change oil before storage and leave it in there . Fill up gas tank completely to prevent moisture from getting it. Set the car on jackstands so that the tires don’t get flat spots. Remove battery and keep it charged.
- the car has been serviced annually and will have fresh oil before it goes into storage. - going to fill the tank with VP - i change tires every 5 years no matter what so that's fine. - i agree draining oil doesn't make sense - once i left synthetic oil in a piece of tupperware out for 4 years in my garage and it didnt degrade at all.
I think you will be fine .. I assuming you are taking battery out as well ? I have another post in tech q/a about the question that comes up after the storage .. what to do to get it going .. maybe we can some thoughts on that The question of what to do once you come out of storage always comes up at local meets because many do not intent to not use cars for a long time and then "boom" 3 , 4 years have pasted and not sure how to get it started without damaging anything Some say just start it ... to pull plugs and put oil in cylinders and rotate engine SO far thread has gotten little response Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Definitely remove battery, careful with the vp fuel if your car has cats. Ethanol free fuel with stabil, but after 5 yrs wont be very good, so fill with fresh fuel after storage. I wouldn't drain oil, but crank engine over with fuel pump fuse removed for a minute to get oil back into the lifters and bearings before running again.
change oil -- use oil high in acid neutralizers. lift suspension so tires do not touch the ground empty gas tank drain coolant remove battery cover car Coming out of long term storage: inflate tires install new battery fill gas tank add coolant flush brake fluid feed the leather <optional> remove spark plugs and inject 1cc of oil into each cylinder Key car on and wait 60 seconds before attempting to start car. <optional> remove fuse to gas pumps turn engine over until oil pressure gauge reads 30 PSI install spark plugs install gas pump fuse attempt start car.
Considering our linings are not cast iron would there ever need a prelube in cylinders ? Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
1) where you going and can i come with ? 2) fresh fluids, ethanol free gas with stabilizer FULL TANK 3) preferable to leave car on a trickle charger 4) i prefer to have the weight of the car on blocks (tires touching okay) inflate a bit higher 5) i prefer to stuff a micro filter rag in the exhaust pipe 6) a BIG money roller like you should really spring for a CARCOON
Here is my short list: 1) Car on jack stands so the tires and suspension are suspended. 2) Drain all fluids. 3) Take battery out and do something else with it. 4) As others have mentioned be aware of potential rodent issues.
I agree. Also protect it with a cover and put a desiccant everywhere. Mothballs smell but keep out nasties. Matt
A. Full tank of non-ethanol gas + stabilizer B. Drain/empty tank/block filler Sort of equal responses.......discuss? (... have horror story of 1/2 tank ethanol for 2 yrs = 5 figure repair bill.....lets not go there....)
The point is not about ethanol free and cats, its about Racing fuel (VP) which can be leaded and cats. They do not mix. I never put any ethanol fuel in my car, it is made to be pumped into your car and burned immediately. Any long term storage turns it into a green mess the ends up contaminating the entire fuel system.
Vp makes fuel specifically for long term storage, in addition to their racing fuels Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
here is the summary from my 93 cobra which sat for about 4 years in between oil changes: "After less than 150 miles, most of the metal is likely just carryover from the previous fill. Still, lead stands out next to averages (based on oil run ~3,500 miles). We're not convinced it shows a problem, though. Lead can come from the bearings, but it could also be from octane boosters or leaded/track fuel, if you've used anything like that recently. Monitor for engine knocking just in case it is bearing wear. The viscosity read in the 5W/20 range, insolubles are good, and the TBN is strong at 7.7. Check back on lead in 500-1,000 miles."
Response from blackstone about oil decaying while just sitting: “The oil won't go bad on you just sitting in the engine, and it only accumulates metal with use, so keeping it in the crank for years at a time is fine to do. And that goes for all oils, not just synthetic ones. We've yet to find any one oil that out performs another, so you can expect similar results (at least as far as wear metals go) with whichever brand you choose to use.” Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk