Hey All- TR has developed some assumedly fuel related issues. 1987, 28k miles. Car starts fine but if I try and pull it out of garage, to warm up outside, too quickly it will bog down from 1000rpms to 500rpms and inevitably stall. This seems to be a reoccurring peoblem until its at least 10min warmed up. However even after a full warm up (30min driving etc) it still has a tendency to stall when blipping throttle to engage clutch or during clutch engagemwnt. It doesnt stall when reving up, it stalls after the blip when the rpm’s fall. Additionally, it will rev up fine after the basic warm up, but the longer I drive it the more it tends to hesitate in 3rd gear and above as it revs about 4k. Its as if it just loses momentum then eventually catches up and goes again. From what ive researched here this is pretty common. Ive seen people replace the coils. Any tests that I should conduct to help with diagnosis? Thank you, T
Sounds like a bad ignition module. Those are the guys that sit on top of the coil with the large wide connector under the protection shield. You can buy them from trutlands for about 130 bucks or so. Replace both at the same time. If one is failing, the other won't be too far behind.
If the ignition module is the issue, check the cross reference thread as IIRC there's a listing for aftermarket replacements for considerably less money. I did mine about 10-11 years ago with aftermarkets and no issues since.
See post 24 in this thread. I replaced both of mine a few years ago, got the XM631 from Rare Electric for $50 bucks a piece. The DAC 6093 coils are also very inexpensive and readily available. I played around playing the swap the 1-6/7-12 coil and module game for a while, if you modules are the originals I would just replace them both. Good Luck! https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/testarossa-coil-and-module-thread.279017/
Thanks everyone! I’ll go through my service records to see if they were replaced and also inspect to see if they are original. Hopefully it is this simple.
Hi, Im having the same issue at the moment, turns out its the Alternator, figured this out by switching everything on, lights, air con, radio, etc then dipping the revs to see if it stalls. ill get mine re-built next time the engine is out as its a pain to get to. Good luck sorting yours...
This could make total sense for me too. Is it normal for a TR to show the battery symbol when the car first starts? Then it disappears once you blip the throttle? That's what mine does.
Not sure if it's 'normal' per se but my '85 has done that since I've owned it. Even after an alternator rebuild 3 years ago.
Yes it's normal for the battery light to illuminate when the key is in the on position, it should quickly go out once the car starts. It's "not" normal for you to have to touch the throttle to make the light go out. If it is tuned correctly the light should disappear quite quickly whether the car is cold or hot.
Ok. The not normal condition is exactly what is happening with my car. Tuning or alternator? Seems like a charging issue. Is there a way to trouble shoot the alternator to determine its health?
The search function is great on fchat as most of these questions have been answered. Here is a great post that should point you in the right direction. Good luck and please keep updating your thread. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/testarossa-battery-light-on-with-engine-running.527242/#post-144799313
when you start the engine and it will run under 800 rpm then the battery light may stay on. but over 900 rpm the light has to go off, if not then it is a problem of the alternator or connection somewhere. but this is normal technical stuff, nothing special for TR.
I had someone check the power output of the Alternator, very simple test with a vault reader and someone who knows what they're up to. I think he only charged me £40, needed help so we could eliminate other potential issues, bad earth, etc...
Im showing two receipts for new coils, one OEM (oem price anyway) and one aftermarket with a wiring adapter kit. Inspection of the car reveals the same. Still worth replacing them? They were done about 13 years ago. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Did you check the modules as Tom suggested in post 2? Are they original? Have you confirmed you have spark on both banks? Do you have access to a timing light? Don't needlessly buy parts until you have done more diagnostics. Others will continue to chime in just keep posting.
Here is some light reading for you. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/88-tr-bad-running-issues-need-help.299441/page-2 https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/testarossa-cold-idle-ok-but-car-stutters-when-engine-is-hot.556440/ https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/intermittent-surge-and-then-no-power-then-ok.552033/#post-145376237
Check out the voltage protection relay for the fuel injection. I had a blown fuse and it caused my car to run really lean and wouldn't move under it's own power Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
I get exactly this behaviour from my 1986 Testarossa, but don't get any running issues (drives and runs great after warming up) and the thorough PPI I got didn't flag any issues. Hope it's normal and not a sign of a failing alternator
Not trying to be rude here but can we keep this particular thread about these conditions only: 1) starts and idles fine but stalls when blipping the throttle for backing out of garage or doing standard low speed parking manoevers. 2) hesitates under full throttle acceleration in second and higher gears when warm. I have no idea if these problems are related but these are the two problems that I started the thread about.
I'd start from the beginning and do the idle speed adjustment sequence and balance the vacuum on both banks. do you have the service manual? the process is in there.
I agree with James. Tim - what is your idle RPM sitting at? I find with mine if it is stone cold and I literally try starting to reverse it out of my garage, it may stall and it's a bit lumpy the revs. Give it a few mins of running and a couple of small blips of the throttle it settles down to a nice rhythm, then no problems reversing/moving the car. My vacuum lines I recently changed to silicon ones and also replaced the 1 way valves - made a positive difference, it starts better and runs very strong now including when warmed up.
Well well well. Removed ignition wires and look at these readings. Wow. Have replacements arriving today or Monday. Image Unavailable, Please Login