Differential side cover outer bearing race removal

Hi all,
I am just starting the differential swap with Newman's billet carrier and am replacing the bearings-
What is the best way to remove the outer races from the side covers?
-just heat the whole assembly and smack down on a wooden block
-create molded ice insert for race- cool and tap
-welder...

I'd really appreciate the best option

 

Thanks will do it today!

 

Easy with enough heat- I heated the surrounding covers to the point of the old oil just smoking- about 375 degree F and they drop out easily. On another note- Just how "tight" should the limited slip clutching be- I resembled the components in the precise order with clean engine oil in Newman's billet carrier. torqued the bolts to 3 Nm. Pretty darn stiff to turn- takes about 60 lbs ft of torque (estimate) to "differentially" turn the stub axels. I do not see any spec as to what this should be in the extraordinarily detailed shop manual. I am assuming that with all of the clutch and plates in virtually as-new condition that this degree of "stiffness" is normal. Is there any spec for what the static turning torque should be?
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

sorry I meant 3 kg M about 21 lbs ft
but how much force should it take to turn the stub shafts relative to each other?

 

Yes, I assembled this exactly as described and will, of course, check/ adjust backlash when I start reassembly in the transaxle . I just used engine oil in assembly and the spring washer was flush at the edge-seems right. I was just concerned at what should the appropriate amount of torque be at this stage between the stub shafts. I may very well reassemble with the moly grease as Paul mentioned. Overall, I am in the process of reassembly of all components and so the jobs are a bit out of sync. I still need to inspect the gearbox re syncros etc.
On another note, It would be interesting to know the assembly order of the BBi s when they were originally manufactured. What is the most efficient way to assemble and maintain the best access to each added system. An example being that I am completing all the suspension components and then plan to install the refinished wheel well/fender components. It would be fun to have a time-lapse sequence of this from the past
In the late 60's I had the opportunity to tour the assembly facility for the Lamborghini Miura s type and it was really cool to see the hand assembly in one location. I had a private tour as my Uncle knew Mr. Lambourghini's mistress at the time-all very normal....
I also went on a long and highly energetic drive with one of the factory test drivers on the public roads and he proceeded to scare the cr*p out of me at times- overtake a large truck when another is coming straight at you. You wouldn't really go for it, not enough space or time, OMG you did and OMG we made it. Quite the experience. The sounds and sight of the row of webbers with their velocity stacks howling inches behind the headrest were impressive.
I digress.

 

Yes, this is an effective technique in some cases but for the boxer, just a torch works great, I just had to have the courage to bring it up to a hot enough temp- a good indication is when the oil starts to smoke. The race will then just drop out- If one has to set up this shim it is conceivable that you are doing this a few times. I was fortunate enough that with Newman's diff the L shim was nuts on in terms of the crown gear/pinion pattern and the only thing I need to adjust is the R side shim to get the correct preload- I need an additional 0.40 mm to achieve this. Romano has been kind enough to custom grind a shim which I very much look forward to.