09-14 Cali headliner/windshield trim panel removal? (to fix leather)

I would take it to the dealer.

 

Ditto. There is a place in DFW called Tin Lizzie Affair. I have not used them, but people I have talked to have really spoken highly of their work. They do work for Boardwalk Ferrari per their web page. I am sure Steve Fordham @ Boardwalk could give you more info, suggestions...T

 

I have seen posts on removing various panels. I’m sure it can be done. Did you search the forum?

 

I find the search function here clunky. I usually find it better to go to Google and enter:

Site:ferrarichat.com ?????

where ????? are the keywords of interest

Good luck...T

 

Personally, I would leave this sort of thing to the experts unless I had extensive successful experience removing and reinstalling interior trim. It's hard to avoid mistakes or broken clips when you're doing trim the first time.

In case you're still working on this, I notice a couple of eBay auctions of this piece of trim (401009892514) (122149044728). I copied the photos attached to the auction.

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You're welcome! I'm always curious to learn along with the rest of the gang on FChat. I suspect the folks who install car stereos and dash cams probably have various plastic pry bars they fashioned themselves for nudging such panels loose, without scarring the leather or plastic surfaces.

FWIW, the minor wrinkles I see from your photo don't look that bad to me.

 

Mark, I see what you mean. Yeah, you gotta fix it. Maybe the folks at your dealer service department could recommend someone. You may want to check the rest of the upholstery just in case there's more.

Summers up here can get hot for a few days but it's generally mild so I almost never have my car outside my garage on truly hot days (33°C/91°F) since I always drive with the top down - can't use my Cali30 on days when I could get sunburn. Austin is significantly hotter in the Summer so it's different for you.

I had a bad experience one time when I was young, drove down to Dallas to visit my GF. I had just bought a beautiful new '82 silver VW Scirocco and we had a blast driving around DFW that spring. A few months after I got home, the beautiful blue dash and glovebox cover lifted and bubbled (bigly). I started using sunshades after that.

Nowadays, I put up a sunshade whenever I park regardless of how warm/cold it is outside, for UV protection of the dash. I ordered a custom sunshade made by Intro-Tech from CARiD as soon as I got my Cali30 back in 2013. It's a perfect fit, slips under the "lip" of the trim around the windshield and stays up without any support from the visors, which are too small anyway. If you don't already have it you might want to get one so at least the windshield trim, dash are shielded and the car interior/seats stay cooler.

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I reupholstered my A-Pillars last year. I don't remember looking at the headliner assembly when the pillars were off because it's ok still. A pillars were really very simple. Sorry, no pics but here's the info:

I did some research online and I was able to determine the pillars simply snap onto the metal frame with 6 spring clips. The bottom of the pillar is molded with two square tabs that engage into holes below the dash.

Here's the fix: First pull gently but firmly at the top side of the pillar next to the windshield glass. You may get both top clips free but If you only get one clip free, grab the top of the pillar with the other hand and pull gently towards you with both hands. When the top clip is free, it's likely the lower clips will release as well. Then simply lift the pillar up and out from the dash. The clips may stay on the metal of the car or may come off with the plastic pillar. I had some of each. You should pull any clips off the plastic pillar and put them back on the car except the two at the very top - they should be attached to the plastic pillar. You may need to use a pair of needle nose pliers to tighten some of the metal clips where they attach to the car frame and also bend the "teeth" that keep the clip secured to the car so they get a good "bite". Make sure the clips are oriented correctly or the pillar won't go back on properly.

Once the pillar is free, it should be pretty easy to separate the leather from the plastic on the side which was closest to the glass (where the pilar was most exposed to heat and UV which is what likely led to the adhesive breakdown). I pulled the entire length of leather back to about the middle of the pillar - just past where the leather was sagging. I laid the pillar down on a table with the plastic side and the pulled back leather exposed. After watching several you tube videos I purchased DAP Weldwood contact cement for the adhesive. Using the supplied brush, apply the cement to both the leather and the plastic but not the edges that wrap around the pillar. Be careful not to let the leather and plastic touch until the cement becomes dry - about 15 to 20 mins according to directions. And make sure you don't get cement on the good side of the leather, it might stain it. After the cement is set up, CAREFULLY pull the mid point of the leather edge with one hand and with the other apply pressure to the leather (again mid pillar) to adhere the two. Start in the center and work your way out to the edges and ends of the pillar. The edges of the leather will wrap around the edge of the pillar so once you've got the surface of the panel smooth and tight, flip the pillar over and apply the contact cement on the backside of the pillar and the tabs/ rollover pieces of the leather. Again, let the cement set up for 15 mins or so and then pull the edges tight and secure them to the back of the pillar. I put a few clamps on some of the edges to make sure the adhered well. Left the clamps on for an hour or so.

Let the pillar dry and outgas over night unless you want that toxic smell of contact cement in your car! Put the pillars back in place by lining up the square tabs with the holes below the dash. Simply line up the pillar with the angle of the metal pillar and press it into firmly place. Viola! Mine looks like new.

 

Using soft tools that are kind to the materials you want to protect is important just as identifying the "better" component on the assembly to first remove and the "best" location (requires the least force, least noticeable impact) on that component to begin the process.

I think you are committing the requisite time and careful thought to the task. Good luck with the honey-do spring list Mark.