HELP! 1984 308 Keeps Shutting Itself Off While Driving | Page 2 | FerrariChat

HELP! 1984 308 Keeps Shutting Itself Off While Driving

Discussion in '308/328' started by Dr Tommy Cosgrove, Dec 4, 2017.

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  1. Albert-LP

    Albert-LP F1 Veteran
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Sep 1, 2010
    7,779
    around Modena, Italy
    Full Name:
    Alberto Mantovani
    I would exclude the ignition switch and the fuse box too, as just the engine ignition is up and down while all the others electric parts always work. I would inspect the high voltage part only.

    Ciao
     
  2. racer

    racer Karting
    Professional Ferrari Technician Silver Subscribed

    Nov 17, 2003
    193
    Atlanta
    Full Name:
    Ron
    Tommy
    I think three things could be your problem. The fuel pump, the bosch protection relay (right rear trunk area), or loss of power/ground to one or both of the ignitions circuits/coils. Which could be the reference/timing signal sensors (there are three) or the connections to and from the sensors, the grounds on the engine or connections/electrical signals at ignition computers left rear area of truck. These types of issues are the most difficult to diagnose and can be very time consuming.
     
  3. Dr Tommy Cosgrove

    Dr Tommy Cosgrove Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 4, 2001
    35,281
    Birmingham, AL
    Full Name:
    Tommy
    #28 Dr Tommy Cosgrove, Dec 11, 2017
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2017
    Thanks to everyone for their input. Every post is appreciated

    Ron - if you recall I am running two Bosch Red coils since 2006 and I have two new stock units in my trunk. We need to R&R those anyway. Back then I replaced the failed crank position sensor for the rear bank. That was the only sensor I replaced of the three, therefore the other two are 33 years old although I doubt the one on the forward bank is the culprit since the entire engine is shutting off, not just 1/2 like back then.

    Back in about 2012 or 13 I had a gallon jug of water leak onto the FI box down in the trunk. I started a thread on this. The relay was a rusted gunky mess by the time the problem presented itself. The fused relay in no longer available but a similar one used on a 928 for some years was available. I don't recall at the moment but there are fewer legs or something on the 928 fused relay. I rewired the thing to work according to instructions here and it has been fine since (until this IF this is the issue).

    Remember back in 14 or 15 I had to leave it with you when it wouldn't start for an event in Atlanta. Flatbedded it to you and rented a car. You called me when I was at the rental place saying it started and was running fine. It started for you and took a while to act up again while you had it.

    I am going to have to flatbed it to you. I don't trust driving it.
     
  4. Qvb

    Qvb F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 9, 2003
    2,827
    Newport Beach Ca.
    Full Name:
    John Dixon
    I have a similar but, more than likely, different problem. Sometimes when I am driving, the alarm system (ancient Clifford) will get set off, which shuts off the car just as you describe. If I quickly grab the remote and push the button, I can then restart the car with the key. It is freaky, and potentially dangerous, but obvious what the problem is. I was thinking maybe you could have some remnents of an old alarm system but then I think you would need the remote before you could restart, so seems unrelated to your issues. (My mechanic thought we may have fixed the problem with a new car battery, as the old one had a bad cell, but the problem has since returned)(I need to get that alarm out of the car)
    Good luck!
     
  5. emcauto

    emcauto Karting

    Jul 1, 2009
    244
     
  6. emcauto

    emcauto Karting

    Jul 1, 2009
    244
    Been here before exact problem chased it for a while as your driving wiggle key should simulate it............Hope it helps
     
  7. ME308

    ME308 Formula 3

    Nov 5, 2003
    1,542
    Munich, Germany
    Full Name:
    Michael
    understandable, could be dangerous ...
    unfortunately this would be the best way to measure anything directly after the fact

    but have you tried to replicate the fault (sudden engine cut out) while beeing stationary ?

    if not, just start the engine from cold ... and wait
    let it run for 10-15 min ( so a little longer than the it takes until the fans came on)

    if it is a fault within the ignition circuit and also has anything to do with heat ... it should manifest itself within a certain timeframe
    with a little "luck" engine will shut off :cool:
     
  8. Dr Tommy Cosgrove

    Dr Tommy Cosgrove Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 4, 2001
    35,281
    Birmingham, AL
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    Tommy

    After I got to the show area I parked the car and went to lunch. I was gone for about an hour.

    When I got back I started the car and drove it up on the flatbed. It died again when I was sitting on the truck idling with my foot off the throttle.
     
  9. ME308

    ME308 Formula 3

    Nov 5, 2003
    1,542
    Munich, Germany
    Full Name:
    Michael
    hmmm ... from all the descriptions above, still both seems possible:

    a) fuel is running out (at least for a period of time ... )

    b) +12V to both coils / ecus is suddenly cut off completely (although all other electrics seem to work)


    I would try to replicate the fault again ... and once the engine cuts out, leave everything as is, don`t even move the key

    in this situation,

    a) measure if there is +12V on the yellow wire at the most forward coil

    b) unplug the blue-green safety switch at the CIS-Distributor to check if you can hear the fule pump (you should hear it with key still in the "ign on" position)


    this way you can at least check if you have battery power at the coils and the fuel pump running

    if either check fails, you have a clue where to look next ;)


    (a couple of years ago, it took me 3 months of testing like that and at least 20+ starts from cold ... to finally find the failure in the ign circuit...)
     
  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,038
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    One other place to look is the top of fuses #1 and #2 at the fuse block. +12V power from the ignition switch comes into the top of these fuses (on a light blue wire IIRC), it then goes down thru fuses #1 and #2 to run a whole bunch of stuff; however, it is also connected to a yellow wire that exits from the top of fuses #1 and #2 to run the ignition system. Anyway, just trying to illustrate how everything else electrical can seem to stay working, but the ignition system not work. IMO, you should add a better electrical connection between between the top male terminals of fuse #1 and fuse #2 than just the stock rivets and plate on the backside -- even if that isn't your present problem ;). It's also an easily accessible place to confirm/deny if the ignition switch is the trouble (i.e., if the light blue wire stays +12V when the engine stops running = the ignition switch is not the problem). Do you still have unmodified stock fuseblocks?
     

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