recently had my battery go low, put it on my tender and did a recon to restore the battery. The car has all power and all accessories function fine now and the starter clicks, but the engine wasn’t/isn’t turning, so it doesn’t seem like an immobilizer issue. Pulled the battery this morning and had it tested and it’s good. Any recommendations on next steps for diagnostics (relays or modules)?
When they said your battery was good, what was that based on? If they just measured voltage then it might not have enough cold cranking amps. Oftentimes a battery could have adequate or sufficient voltage but not enough amperage. Amperage is what's needed to start the engine.
Buy and install a new battery they only last 2/3 years based on climate. Try it and report back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
More or less correct but it is really a complicated subject. Voltage is the potential to do work BUT it doesn't tell you how much work can be done. Current (measured in amps) represents the movement of electricity but it doesn't tell how much work can be done. Power is measured in Watts and represents the work actually done, not how much can be done. It is very difficult to measure potential energy (how much work a battery can actually do at any given time). Suffice to say, batteries do go bad and load testing is the only way to know if a battery is good or not. Many shops have the ability to load test batteries but it is doubtful that you can do that at home.
You forgot laziage, the difference between the potential to do work and the amount of work you actually choose to do.
I'm having a similar issue, however my battery is fine and never depleted (on tenderizer), and replaced key fob battery, but still not able to turn off engine demobilizer with the key fob, so engine won't turn over. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Make sure you're pressing on the brake pedal hard prior to pushing the engine start switch. Check your brake pedal switch to ensure it's not damaged or any wires damaged. Unlock your engine bay lid, lift it up, clean the contacts of the 3rd brake light switch metal plate using very fine sandpaper, then reclose engine bay lid.I Try starting the engine again. Hope that helps. Dan
Do you have another fob you can try? Do you have the immobilizer PIN code card that should have come with the car?
- Check to see if your brake lights are working. - Attach a voltmeter to the battery terminal wire. The voltage should be 12.5+ volts. - While observing the voltmeter, try to start the car. If the voltage drops much below 11 volts, you either have a dead battery or a bad connection in the power wiring.
Battery isn’t the issue. Checked all connections. Locked and unlocked using red fob. All electrical appears good. Lights all good /13.1v
I've heard that you should turn key on and wait 30 seconds before trying to start the engine. Some how this allows the battery and the car to get in sync. Maybe worth a try....
Well...Played around with locking and unlocking with various remotes, turning the battery kill switch on and off, and wiped down the engine bay (something to do while I was thinking what this could be) then tried to started it one last time before calling it a night and to my amazement the car fired right up as if nothing ever was wrong. Case closed - chalk it up as another one of those temperamental Ferrari oddities that leaves you baffled.
Definitely not a myth and no idea why you would think that let alone try to promote such rubish. Even the owners manual says to wait. The reason is the system is initializing and establishing communications on the CAN bus. IF you hit the wrong timing on that start you can disrupt the initialization process and cause problems. They can be rectified by turning off the system and trying again but that doesn't mean they didn't happen.
