well said, this guy is not or will not tell the story . is going to end up with a half ass fix . i have basically the same set up and tune and love it , the service was excellent and fast . dealt with then on my GT4 they bent over backwards to get parts for me as we had a short time time frame . and before anybody thinks i have anything to with fabspeed i don"t
It is pretty obvious that there is incorrect installation here. The unit was stressed from impacts from surrounding objects (i.e.: heatshield) which caused it to shear. Fabspeed was doing standard due diligence of inspecting the unit but the OP, knowing likely that his improper installation would void the warranty, threw a hissy fit because he wanted to Fabspeed to "just replace it" without any inspection therefore circumventing any improper installation. Obvious situation and likely why OP is unwilling to share information or any details.
I was following this thread as I have a somewhat similar setup and therefore curious as to the mechanical events. It would be so much easier if the guys that have really nothing to add except to attack the Op would just leave this thread alone, you don't know everything as I don't so stop acting like you do and prolonging the discussion on something that is over with.
I live in FL so there is no emissions testing, however I was getting CEL warning so I took my 360 to Mase Engineering in Jacksonville, FL. He deleted the O2 code so that is no longer an issue. With Dyno data, he was able to bump the rwhp up 17 more hp and speed up the throttle response some. Well worth the effort!!!!! The back story of my bung fracturing off. This happened while doing a SCCA PDX event at Sebring on the short course. After three twenty minute heats with high heat, high Revs, vibration, etc, etc... While coming back to the pit area, the exhaust note sounded way different. A inspection showed one bung completely broken off the high flow CAT and the other bung partially cracked through. I think that the high flow CAT was red hot while on the track and the metal just could not take it.
Thank for going into depth about what happened. If I would have know that it would have been a problem I would have definitely skipped the mini-cats. Hopefully, I can have my car ready for a September track event held by Ferrari of Seattle .....but it's usually raining by then. So, are your welds holding up now?
Off topic somewhat but very interesting to see an old-school approach to customer service. I would use your services if you weren't so exclusive or so far away!
Had some time to take off the test pipes. See Pics. The first 3 pictures are of the complete failure with the bung put back on. The red circle area is where I think the crack started where the stress I believe was. The other pictures are of the left side. I didn't notice anything when I took the mini-cats off but when I took a picture of just the O2 sensor put back on and I noticed a tiny crack in the picture.....and sure enough the left side is starting to fail as well. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It look as if the weld didn't have enough heat in the area where I circled in red. I wonder what filler Fabspeed used. 304 ..308. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yikes...Flea7 - it is weird that it would be failing on both sides. I was getting ready to order the 02 extenders. I think the amount of heat generated by these things is so great, that it is definitely an issue.
Tailwag, It's not really that surprising. If it failed on one side with the same set up.....it will eventually fail on the other. The mini-cats were used. O2 extenders are a little different and I did run those on the primaries but I took them off. ... And yes, a lot of heat runs through the pipes. You can see the bluing of the stainless.
I'm no weld expert - can additional welding be added around or over that area when the product is first bought to provide additional strengthening for future purchasers? (I know that shouldn't be the answer, but, say, for personal peace of mind)
No expert either in Tig welding but I have to say it's pretty tough to weld those two very different thicknesses of metals together. The amount of heat to get a good penetration on the bung is probably way overheating the thin stainless tubing and is surly suffer annealing. A "saddle" mount as pictured by one poster here is probably the best solution-- using a thicker material than the tubing but not as thick as the bung. Kind of stepping it down to a closer successful "matching" of heat for a secure and effective weld.
Very correct KC360. I did get the saddle mounted bung and it covers the hole but it does not sit on the pipe evenly due to the weld going across. Quite a gap.... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've TIG welded quite a bit - built somewhere around 200 dragster chassis.... Perhaps I'm not seeing it in your photo but the weld looks like it's penetrated the bung to me. Had it not, the bung probably would have broken off the weld vs the tubing breaking.
Agree with Dave. You could always use some stainless filler rod too. Little more tricky, but a certified welder could probably do a really nice job of it. Maybe just tack it in place first and then turn it over to a real pro if your a little squeamish about it. ;-)