Dave and I were long distance drinking, i think he was drunk, it caught me a few days ago ha ha
You cannot replace major components (except pump motor only, not pump and head) in an F1 system without bleeding the system. There are ways to do that without an SD2, but they are a pain. SD2 or equivalent diagnostic tool makes it pretty simple. For F1 owners, it took Ferrari until 2006 to figure out the F1 fluid needed to be changed and the system bled and checked for leaks at least every 3 years. It is, after all, hydraulic fluid and we change brake fluid and power steering fluid more often than that. If that simple maintenance was done regularly on the F1 system, there would be a lot fewer problems. Does require the correct tool or something like Juri's pump to pressurize the system and do it the hard way. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Grant- I bought my techs the AutoEnginuity software for $3500 and it is capable of doing all the F1 servicing on later F1 models. Not sure about the F355. They do not list the F355 on their website, even though it does cover Motronic 5.2 and 1st Generation F1. Might be worth asking. Could be all they need is a Beta tester. My techs like the system and we did some Beta testing for the 575M.
Brian, I actually sent Nin a PM apologizing for my post. Yes, you are correct, I am sensitive about it due to the almost non-stop F1 bashing on this site. I own an F1 that operates flawlessly, 100% original OEM parts. I personally believe the F1's get a bad reputation from the folks who hack them up or don't properly maintain them.
Well said, Dave. I've had a few problems with mine in the last year or so but it's a 19 year old car and these are the first F1 related problems it has ever had (I have all the records). I now expect another lengthy period with no problems. Not bad at all and not worth the crap they get from people who just prefer manual so will always be critical of the F1 cars.
I'll also add that I've had mine for 6 years and its performed beautifully the entire time. The only issue I've ever had on 2 occasions the car wouldn't start due to it being in gear. A slight push on the door jam is all it took to realign the sensor and off I went. I've got records all the way back to the original owner and no reference to any F1 related issues ever. When properly serviced they are reliable.
I agree ni problems with mine till this year replaced with Juri's 355 motor, plug and play and all is good again. Next I suspect will be accumulator so I will replace at this engine out. Actually not true forgot when hit huge hole and motor mount failed with car stuck in gear. So 2 problems in 18 years. I am ok with that especially when get less than 5 years from a chev tranny.
Looks like the problem persists. Motor is priming every 10 seconds or so. I guess bleeding the system wasn't the issue after all. Surprised (not really) the dealership didn't notice. Something is causing the pressure to not hold. It's not the accumulator or pump as they are new. If I watch the reservoir with the key in the ON position...the fluid sinks down during prime then slowly climbs back up causing the pump to turn on again. Car shifts and drives fine. No lights on the dash. Fear of impending pump failure though if this is not rectified.
I replaced my original accumulator with a new one, and tried another OEM one off an old wrecked 355 as well. I think it's safe to say all three weren't hooped.
Wouldn't that show an external leak? The pressure isn't holding within the system after the pump pressurizes the accumulator. The reservoir fills right back up (assuming from the systems return line) after it's been pressurized...takes about 10 seconds to do so then the pump kicks on again. Does the pressure switch on the power head open a gate of some sort? Or is it strictly for monitoring pressure and telling the pump to turn on?
My understanding is it just lets the pump know to turn on. I also would have thought orings weaping or leaking pressure should show as a drip of some kind.
I would be more inclinded to say the shop did not bleed correctly. This is not to pick on shop but unless someone can explain how a pressure leak shows no fluid I still think its air. Unless you somehow cant see the fluid leak but from what you are saying it leaks a lot to bleed off that fast so I would think the leek would be obvious.
There might be some light residue around fittings but I wouldnt constitute them as leaks. The pressure isnt being held in the system...fluid is coming back into the reservoir right after the pump turns off from reaching the required pressure. Is there a flow chart available in the WSM perhaps? Seems like there would be some part of the system that would lock in the pressure between the return line once its reached the upper end of the pressure switch telling the pump to turn off. Which parts of the system open gates back to the return to the reservoir? Also, the shop is the local Ferrari dealership. I got the car back dirty, with a massive grease stain on my floor mat and my side mirror control switch rammed in. They bent me right over on the system bleed as well and tried to upsell me on new hoses for the whole F1 system for $2200. Place is an absolute joke. Not surprised by how much business indie shops take away from them but theres not many nearby that have an SD2. Borderline want to purchase an SD2 just so I never have to deal with that place again.
Like you, I wish we had an internal flow diagram of the solenoid assembly unit. I am sure it exists. I think the o-rings on the individual solenoids do hold internal pressure "in place" and if they are worn that may allow the fluid to transfer from the solenoid assembly to the reservoir reducing pressure at the pressure switch. But I am not certain. As a reference: I got in my car a moment ago and turned it on. I have 4 flashes form cold. The pump does run 4 seconds after the last flash is done. Untouched, the cycle time for the next pump run was 2 minutes and 3 seconds. The pump ran 2 seconds to recover pressure. Your experience with a Ferrari Dealership is the same as mine. Lake Forest Sports Cars is supposedly top notch. My experience suggests otherwise. I have been aggressively looking for a used SD2. Barring that I may just suck it up and buy a Leonardo. If you were closer I would split it with you. Group buy?! I wish all the best on this one. We will will all most likely be where you are at some point so I am very interested in your result and will help in anyway I can.
D20 WSM - full Hydraulic circuit (but you need to know how to read these - I do) Image Unavailable, Please Login
It's my understanding that the SD2's are not the easiest to learn and no support other than hooking up with someone who knows them and willing to help you. It's also my understanding that they are fragile and getting them serviced is very expensive - apparently they overheat?? IMO, the likely better option is the Galileo (smaller version of the Leonardo) from Nick Leonardo diagnostic tool for ferrari maserati lamborghini Welcome to Galileo diagnostic tool.com This is the tool I plan to purchase.
How much is the Galileo and does it read the F1 system just the same as the SD2? I'm fairly certain the o-rings in the solenoids on the power head are shot somewhere. Waiting to hear back from the dealer on some more information. Wondering if the relay failing closed put too much pressure on them.
Many independents use the Leonardo tool (Galileo is single model version). I've gotten mixed reviews from various independents but a 27 year factory tech has told me he can do the same as an SD but sometimes it's just slower. Regarding price - please speak with Nick as I'm not going to post what he quoted me publicly.
i would also like to say I have spent thousands with Nick at Forza and I have yet to see I bad comment about him. I believe he told me it would do everything but check with Nice he wont lie to you.
