I had to manually disengage the clutch into neutral using the method mentioned in the workshop manual(see photo). Does anyone know if i have to bleed the system after this procedure? The manual doesnt mention anything about doing so, all i did was use the specialty pump to release the gear into neutral. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great post as you are the first I know that did this. When you disconnected the coupling did you lose a lot of fluid? I've not had and confirmation if that fitting has a check valve on each side. If it does not, and fluid poured out, yes - you will need to bleed. Where did you get the pump? Please post pictures.
No fluid came out of mine when I did this so i think it does or if it does not still not fluid came out much nd you the sytem likely had bled down because it was a few hours between running and the disconnect.
The easiest way to bleed the F1 system is to open the bleeding valves, connect tubing for flow back to reservoir, open the door or turn on the engine. The F1 pump will become activated (if the electric motor is functional), and because hydraulic fluid pressure will not rise due to open bleeding valves, it will keep pumping fluid and getting rid of air bubbles. Make sure you have enough additional hydraulic fluid to prevent the system from "sucking in" air from the reservoir.
I personally would not flow from the bleed screws back into the system. I would just have fresh fluid filling the reservoir. Like bleeding brakes - you would never pour the fluid bled back into the reservoir.
It is on the same block #2 shown in the diagram (Fig.15; D25), just opposite of the fast disconnect junction #1.
The WSM states to use the same bleed screw as manual cars (left side of pumpkin). I believe the actual pump body as a bleeder too. Only posting observations as I've not bled an F1 system before.
Ya kinda hot here like 25 so beer tasting really good. I am not really sure what i was trying to say.
Yes it did but from the line coming from the f1 pump. i found the bleeding procedure in the manual, it asks for the sd1 but i doubt thats needed. Im going to try this ill get back to you. I've located the bleed screw its under the bottom of the car, to the left of the gearbox. see photo Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well, that unfortunately means the nipple (item 1) is not check valved - I did not think it was, but was hoping. My John Deere tractor had hydraulic quick disconnects and they had check valves so only a couple drops of fluid lost each time... Yep - that's what I posted above via the WSM
Update! Had been out with work the past few weeks but managed to get back on working on the car today. So hooked everything up, after starting the car the pump kicked in and i was able to engage the gears. Turned off the car and then back to position "II" and now i can engage all gears. The problem im having now is that i can only engage the 1st or reverse by first applying brake then holding the "UP" paddle OR R lever and then getting on the accelerator while continuously holding the "UP" paddle/ R Lever. Letting off the accelerator OR the paddle/Lever automatically pops the gear right back to neutral. I would then have to repeat the above procedure again. Same thing with reverse. The f1 light on the cluster is NOT on. Is there something im missing?
fair enough, he probably end up taking it to a dealership then. But also was wondering, there no way around the SD1 then when it comes to F1 bleeding Watson? I tried the same thing as above but it also made it worst than building up more pressure
You should confirm what you are bleeding. This quick coupler is for the clutch only not the f1 system unless you lost so much fluid it got back to the main housing with all the solenoids. Yes I have bled the clutch without an sd Or Leonardo.
Yeah that's true, i just found out the seals in the f1 throw-out bearing is leaking and the air might be coming into the system from there. If i do go replace the seals is it better if it just disconnect the quick coupler before hand? replace everything and then reconnect and bleed?
Yeah i spotted a slow leak in the back of the car near the clutch housing area sadly, small drips of some sort of red fluid on the ground so i double checked the colour of my gear oil and F1 fluid turns out it was the F1 fluid Its going to be a tough job replacing the seals you think?
Like all things 355 skill and experience helps a lot. Can be difficult to get seals on without damage to them
