Centre Console Controls Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Door & Rear Inserts Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Door Pin Sleeve Replacement Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Horn Restauration Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Milage Counter Gearwheel Repair by Rapid Prototyping - the brown gear wheel disintegrated, consistency similar to wet sand... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Headlight Stalk End Split.... Thank you, Verell!!! Great someone produces such types of spares. It did take some patience to get the graphics back on... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
New fuel lines to fuel distributors - Thanks to Verell for supplying fuel hoses and a local Bosch shop for crimping the original hose ends, after polishing, see pictures. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fuel Line Replacement - Thank you Verell for supplying modern hoses - Thank you, Dad, for producing the tool to replace the hoses! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
New Brake Hoses - together with new front disks (OEM) and pads, repainted calipers front & rear plus handbrake restoration Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Front End Clonk & Loose Steering Feeling - Notice the gap between the bushing on the lower A-arm and its seat? Big enough the have the spot weld fail repeatedly... replacement A-arm solved the issue. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Coolant Tube between Banks - Pinholes leading to slow coolant loss. Replaced, incl. some nearby hoses, one with animal damage. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Central Locking Failure - 1st indication: Pax door would lock and reopen when returning driver's door key to neutral position for key removal. 2nd indication: Light humming noise from driver's door for about 30 secs. Function: Driver's door lock position sensor does: inverse polarity of power to pax door motor, and limits time power is supplied. Troubleshooting: Remove driver's door sensor module (grey box) and directly inverse polarity by joining the appropriate wires (that's why you have a colored diagram made by me) > drivers door locks and unlocks normally, so problem is in the driver's door sensor, a ultrasound welded waterproof box... Enters Dremel and voilà, the innards reveal a burned out capacitor. Ordered online for 2 cents and replaced the unit worked when the microswitches were pressed by hand, but NOT when the box was reassembled! Locking was incomplete, leading to the integrated relay humming, and probably to the capacitor failure after a few attempts. I searched and found IDENTICAL microswitches from the same company, for $2.50/each, online. Replaced both, and reassembled the box with additional screws (oh my, not original!) and sealed it with aluminium tape around the Dremel cut. It works perfectly since... by the way, the unit is a Peugeot 205/505 Vachette/Valeo part. Sidenote: Ferrari is an Italian car, using a French door lock sensor, which includes a Taiwanese capacitor, a Swiss microswitch, an American chip and many more "nationalities" - That was in the 80s. Today? Does anyone really believe it's possible to buy a product made in ONE country? Hahaha. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The rear window's rubber seal extending along the buttress next to the engine bonnet was not flush with the bodywork on one side. Turned out one of the inserts was missing the central pin. Lathe job and hammer on the end Parts were galvanised by the way. All fits neatly now: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fuel Door Hinge & Switch Refresh Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rear Upper Quarter Panel Fixation - original fixation weak due to set belt slot, and inaccessible behind B-pillar trim without removing it (= removing headliner...) Broken original support cut off and replaced with own design; now solid as a rock, won't move even when hot repeatedly by passengers entering and exiting the rear seats. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Completed Re-dye Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Headliner Retrim - I got hold of a NOS roll of original Ermenegildo Zegna wool fabric, which unfortunately, was cut in half by the seller to double the price... My aunt, a professional tailor, re-joined the two halves perfectly and also re-produced the sliding roof trim using the original Vinyl side trim and new Spandex rear section... amazing work. All got put back onto the restored roof panel: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The size of the fabric was minimal, no error would be tolerable on cutting the nla material. I checked if the basic size was large enough to cover the headliner plus the rear finishers and C-pillars trim. It looked just ok... Note the color change of old vs. new. I detrimmed the headliner from its courtesy lights and roff switch surrounds. Then I peeled off the fabric... no way back at that point. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fabric Pattern - I stretched out and measured the original fabric sections to create the correct layout in respect the fabric direction (it's a cavalry twill with a 20° slant to the left) for all parts, referencing to the originals. From that I produced a drawing showing the correct layout. I then laid out the parts in real according to the drawing and cut the corresponding parts away. Note the color changes on the originals. This wasn't as visible in the car as it is here. Should someone want the original fabric as a pattern, please feel free. It's yours at shipping cost. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Headliner Finisher, C-pillar, B-pillar and additional trim re-trim - I started off with retrimming the almost flat rear finishers, then the highly complex C-pillar - with a support bracket sticking through the trim. You need to pre-cut it and then place it correctly ONCE using contact glue, by 3M. Those are the first parts to be installed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great thread, and congratulations on sourcing the correct headliner fabric. Save some scraps since some will need it reproduced (hopefully) in the future.