Gents, Thanks. I hear the pump cycling but no pressure builds. It may be as simple as a blown high pressure hose, I just could not see (or smell) at night. There were no puddles either. It's getting towed today so hopefully it is just a hose. We will see. Boaf
Doubtful. PS - I don't believe there is a warning light for the hook open - it's a buzzer. So, the light you may have seen is the pump warning light.
If you had a leak you would know it.I guess the first thing would be to check the F1 fluid... If your F1 light keeps flashing and is trying to build up pressure non stop sounds like you may have an Accumulator problem.I've replaced a few with the same problem.Just my guess. Michael
Bob - it may be one of the many system components. Also, lot's of good independents in FL - so call me if you wish - I can try and point you to someone. If the car is back in PA - get it to these guys and tell them I sent you... https://scuderiaperformante.com/
Hydraulics are not that complex. Its either pumping and making pressure or its not. My light was on and.the pump wasnt coming on. Heat soaked it. Ia it possible the pump he hears is the AIR pump?
Actually with it unplugged its as per the manual and thinks its closed so works fine. You owe me 1 us dollar or about 50 k canadian ha ha.
Ill pay up. I was thinking of when the bonnet is open and engine running And going off memory and thats always dangerous. Thats why It was only a buck. **** So unplug the switches and it works just fine. Check.
Yes, like I listed before to help out other f1 owners there are only a few things that can shut us down. Brake switch, fuses, tyco relay, sdl, and of course I too suffered from the heat soak. Nice thing about knowing this is a bucket of water later and I was atleast driving home. Cheers
Looking at one manual, the F1 has two indicators which look like a car with an open hood (bonnet). One is on the far left (a red warning light), one is around the middle (amber) but has "AUTO" written under the open hood symbol. Both are for the F1 system. The issue is confusing because Ferrari uses a car with an open hood symbol as the warning lights for the F1 system. About the warning light (red) and buzzer: The failure warning light comes on while a buzzer operates. The buzzer also operates in the following cases: a) Engine switched off, but gearbox in neutral b) Engine running, car is stationary, a gear is engaged and one door opers without pressing the brake or accelerator. c) Engine running, car is stationary, one gear is engaged and the engine hood opens. It just seems odd that the clunk happened when the door was opened (Depending on whether the gearbox was in neutral or not, that should have knocked the car into Neutral ). Was it just coincidence? I assume the pump sound is coming from the engine bay and not somewhere else?
They don't show the symbol for the switches, just for the splices (black rectangles) and earth. I'm trying to combine two diagrams into one to make sense of the circuit, but I'm missing a few details e.g. the brake pedal circuit. I don't know if the F1 uses a different switch from the brake lights. F1 Wiring Schematic
All, Quick update, I should hear from my mechanic this afternoon. When the tow truck driver came, I turned on the ignition and felt the Power Unit (Page 028, part number 177686). It was cycling on and off trying to build pressure. Gosh I hope that is not the problem. Expensive, and per some of the threads, may no longer be available. We'll see and will let you know. Boaf
That's why I asked. The F1 warning light has been confused as an open rear deck lid light. Clearly it is not. A local shop spent three hours trying to diagnose an "open rear deck lid" after my engine out service due to that warning light on the dash. I plugged in the F1 pump and the light went away. As Phrogs said, the system is pretty simple by today's standards. It either has (or thinks it has) pressure or it doesn't. Been down this path a few times with my car. It's not that bad. Just annoying.
Did you try the soft reset? Foot on brake Move key too position II With foot on brake wait 5 seconds With foot on brake remove key With foot on brake start car. Sometimes when the car is shut off while still moving, the sensors get confused. This re-set will try and align them. It has (and has not) worked for me and others in the past.
If I understood your car "symptoms" correctly and your F1 pump continues to cycle constantly without switching off, then the engine lid (hood) being open or the the latch switch malfunction are unlikely causes. Constant cycling of F1 pump is typically due to inability of F1 pump to generate required pressure in the hydraulic pressure accumulator, which can be due to the following potential reasons: 1) gear pump head in the unit has become leaky and can not generate enough pressure (i.e., bronze bearing holding gears has failed; one of the cover gaskets failed, etc.); 2) pressure sensor (that measures the pressure of hydraulic accumulator) is malfunctioning (may be as simple as wire or connection problem in the electric harness/connector); 3) pressure accumulator is malfunctioning (i.e., the inner membrane has failed) 4) On/Off solenoid switch is malfunctioning (usually due to O-ring falure of burnt electric coil) 5) leaky high pressure line (check your F1 fluid level when the engine is cold)
Thanks, I will try it When I get to the dealer who towed the car. Will call him this morning. The pace here in Florida is not east coast at all. The call it "Island Time". Boaf
Thanks Juri. I should (hopefully) get some news today These are good points so I can double check the mechanic. I really need to start taking this car (if I do not have time to fix it myself) to F1 in Naples. Visited their shop and met with the technicians. They seem right for the tasks. About F1 Imports Service Center Bob
To update all, the dealer indicates that one of the bonnet latches is at fault. If I read everything correctly in the forum, the F1 will not retain pressure if the Bonnet, Deck Lid or the Drivers door is indicated as "Open" via computer. After replacing the latch, is there some type of coding that needs to be done? He is borrowing a Diag tool, but that may be to better diagnose my Suspension Light. Just curious. Boaf
Top be clear, the system will pressurize with the deck lids / door open. It just will not hold gear. When I leave the deck lid open and try to select first gear, the display will show 1st breifly, then beep and drop to "N". Remeber these are normally closed switches. That means when the lid is down, the switch is open and the TCU needs to see them as open or it thinks the offending panel is still unlatched.
Okie dokie then, thanks. Hopefully I'll have it back today. A bit boring driving a scooter with 9 horses...
