Great thread, especially because you're undertaking this project with your son. Powder coat looks better than shiny stainless, IMHO otherwise, it looks like a nod back to the 1960-70s. Sent via itty bitty electrons
Nice setup! I would personally do the hot side in jet hot light grey in an attempt to come close to the color of all the cast aluminum pieces.
If you send it out for ceramic coating, ask them NOT to polish it. They put it in a big tank with lots of nylon balls and vibrate it for hours and this polishes it to a near chrome look, but if left not polished, the ceramic coat is a white powder looking colour. Take them home and get some nylon scouring pad from the kitchen and a little creme pot polish from the wifes cleaning gear, and VERY lightly clean the white powder off. They come up looking like brand new aluminium. Not too shiny but a beautiful alloy colour. I did this with the formed heat shields over my headers and the results looked amazing. Looks like it came from the factory that way.
We decided to put the car back together naturally aspirated while the turbo pipes are being coated and enjoy what's left of the Summer. Whiteys fabrication came over and made us 3" straight pipes for both banks. He included the O2 and thermocouple bungs so we'd have no error or MILs lighting up the dash. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Once we got it back together, (the KJet had been removed)...we cranked it for quite awhile to guarantee some oil pressure. There was air in the fuel lines so this was a nice buffer to guarantee some oil made it onto the bearings...This took about 2-3 minutes pausing for some time b\t crankings to let the battery catch up... After about 5 mins I started to become concerned b\c no fart, burp, pop, nothing....I thought I was smelling fuel so I was worried something in the ignition systems might have failed or was wired up wrong. My 17 yr old son wired the coils back in, so I thought maybe he missed something. We then double checked the wiring and everything looked good, he even had the star washers in the right place. Because the engine exhibited no sign of starting, I then decided to help it catch (Southern term), I removed the 2 - 1/4" pipe plugs on the back of each plenum and squirted some gas in. We then proceeded to crank and it lit right off. It ran for about 5 secs then died. I now knew the ignition was wired up properly. We did this procedure a couple more times (purging the air from the fuel system), after about 10 minutes it was idling on its' own building heat. Once warmed up, we took it for a test drive...I thought maybe the error lights would come on b\c of the reduced back pressure and temperature. But to my surprise nothing lit up. The car ran perfect. The first trip I revved it to 5000 once I had oil temp, man that flat 12 sounds beautiful. Upon returning to the shop we found a very small fuel leak on one of the injectors, we retightened the line and everything was good. The next day I drove it 200 miles to my buddies car show, the car ran flawless! The exhaust note/drone is not too bad at 3000 rpm basically open headers. I drove it up and down Telegraph Rd (local cruise street in MI) and no one seemed to really notice the exhaust. When merging onto the expressway there's like a tunnel I had to drive thru, again that V12 is hard to beat for the orchestra of sound it creates at 6500 rpm. My plan is to make a video of it idling and going thru a tunnel and posting it up next for you all to hear. Image Unavailable, Please Login
so you put in the kjet again? then it takes a while until the air to the injectors is out, and the line to the cold start valve has to be bleeded because this valve is only open during cranking a short time. also would be good next time to bleed also the other lines ( open those lines from the injectors are push down the airflow meter and wait until fuel comes out, then tighten the lines ) but good that you drive the car now until all other is coated. enjoy the sound
As I posted earlier on the reasons why we updated the brakes and wheels/tires on the Testarossa, thought this article on the weight reduction of carbon fiber wheels vs aluminum on the new Mustang's acceleration was kind'a cool. On our Testarossa the weight reduction was close to a 100 pounds & the Mustang's was about 58 pounds. C&D tested the Carbon wheel/tire sets from the Mustang Shelby GT350R and the aluminum wheel/tire sets from the Base GT350. They did accel<script id="gpt-impl-0.7318742764512007" src="http://partner.googleadservices.com/gpt/pubads_impl_78.js"></script>eration runs from rolling starts to avoid the effects of launch traction between the different rubber. One car tested with the different tire/wheel sets. The carbon tire/wheels and aluminum tire/wheels weigh in like this: Aluminum Carbon F 61 lb F 46 lb R 61 lb R 47 lb Test results 30-50 6th gear Al 10.8 sec Carbon 9.9 sec 50-70 6th gear Al 10.5 sec Carbon 9.7 sec 30-120 4th gear Al 17.7 sec Carbon 16.5 sec 60 to 0 Coast down Al 139 sec/4944 ft Carbon 134 sec/4785 ft. So this goes to verify what I felt in my car before and after. Guess this is part of the reason for titanium lug bolts on Ferraris, haha.
Interesting data, John. Is that from this months C&D? I haven't seen that article posted online yet.......
Hi BlueBi yes pls see post #34, the dyno pull is there and post #48 compares the same engine naturally aspirated to turbocharged. JM
Hey Guys, Need some advice. On my twin turbo project, I basically have a spare engine with flywheel mated to a trans and diff. I need the pressure plate, clutch, floater and assembly that has the gears in it to bolt to the back to couple the engine to the trans input shaft. The engine is a '90 - '91. I want to change the engine and trans as a complete assembly with turbos and don't want to be stealing parts off the OE engine/trans to complete the swap. Are the rear gear plate assemblies interchangeable? I've been looking at some part vendors and they're showing different assemblies based upon car number. Does anyone know why? Will an assembly off a '92 work on a '90 engine and trans? Thanks in advance for any input. JM
Hi John, as far as I know they are the same right up to the 512M and then there is a special oil feed pipe that enters the lower casing making it a different part number. IF anything, the only difference that I could think of is the gear ratios themselves as the difference between Testarossa and 512TR but a part number check of those gears will tell you that.
Robert, Thx for the input, dying to get all this put together...what do you think would be a fair price for an assembly with about 18K miles on it? JM
Hi guys, Was able to pickup this assembly...Looks like it was from 5/92, supposedly had 18K miles on it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I spent some time cleaning it off, then opened it up to see the gears and bearings....Really glad I did because it looks like someone has taken the locking nut loose on the top gear. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I also removed the cap on the lower gear and it seems to be missing the nut to hold this in place too, WTH? The little brass ring also looked like someone may have taken a punch to the face and burnished it up a little... Image Unavailable, Please Login
I also noticed that either the input shaft or someone was trying to remove the interior snap-ring inside this assembly, and it looks like it's bent. Image Unavailable, Please Login