Close to a conclusion on the 250 GTO body after...... ...Travelling over three continents. ...Sorting out parts to test data. ...Dealing with all the data and designing a buck. ...Working out as many options as I could that could be changed on buck according to preference. This includes wheelbase, bonnet, arches, rear spoiler etc, etc. Rough renders below. Will sort out better visuals when I have a chance. They really are basic at the moment. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Parts/assemblies that needed to fit but were not the body itself had to be bought and borrowed, scanned and then converted into simple CAD models. Much book action also. On another thread the viability of using scale models was discussed. Had lunch yesterday with a volume model maker - non Ferrari related -and he was of the same a opinion. It would be difficult to get working. For example, say you have a 1:12th scale model that is 5% out. Entirely possible. A Marchal lamp is about 170mm wide. So you could be +/- 9mm out on one small item. Also, how would you get the rear of the lamp and fixings in this scenario? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
...Bit work still to do as wood looks a bit plasticky. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I am so impressed with what you are doing, have you made any further progress?, what are you planning to do, build a complete car?, is this for yourself or a client? All the best
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Not to derail, but... Just had to go to the dentist for a broken tooth, expecting 2 or 3 visits, temporary crown, etc. However, he had a 3D printer, and after scanning me he put a block of porcelain in the printer, I listened to it go, "zip, zip, zip for a few minutes, and in less than an hour I had a new crown. The times, they are a-changin'. Now back to your regularly scheduled program.
Not sure if 3DE is still participating on the forum, but if he is, I'd like to hear his thoughts on basing his scans and model on one particular example out of 39 handbuilt examples, all with slight variations from each other. The point that made me think of this was the location of the front corner indicator lights - his scans and model have them high on the side beside the headlight buckets, yet most of the GTOs seem to have the front indicator lights lower down on the side, below the headlight bucket height, with the production teardrop side marker lights immediately behind the headlight buckets. The side gills on the front fender are another obvious point of variations, with 2 or 3 slots used on the production cars. It's pretty easy to find photos of GTOs to see all the variations of these details, here's one group shot from the 45th anniversary gathering in California in 2007: Image Unavailable, Please Login
Interesting applications eh? I hear people go both ways about this, oh you shouldn't copy art and oh you should make sure it's preserved. In my mind it's brilliant. Why selfishly hide the beauty of these art pieces from the newer generations. They deserve to be inspired as well. Keep the originals in a safe place and race these. win, win?
This is a funny old section! In this thread we have someone being offered help and suggestions on how to make a fake 250 GTO (call it a recreation/replica/tribute or whatever, at the end it's still going to be a fake GTO designed to try to fool people into thinking that it's something it's not), and in other threads, the very same type of cars are being criticised for the exact same thing!
So when it comes to laser scanning for 3D printing, it has to be more challenging than just pointing and clicking doesn't it? Is there some "post processing" to take out the blemishes in the scanned version before you try to print it? Does anyone have experience with some of the new systems that print metal? If you can faithfully scan with high tolerance and print metal, it seems like you could print off rare engine parts or even *body panels*...
3D scanning gives a "point cloud". You then have to manipulate that point cloud within a Cad/Cam package to create a smooth solid surface. It is very, very time consuming. While you can now 3d print metal parts it is still relatively in its' infancy. For engine parts and anything under stress you would be better off taking the CAD data and machining a part on a CNC mill or lathe. Recreating body panels is still easier done by hand IMO. Once I have a correct buck or form to shape aluminum from I can shape a panel much faster, more accurately and far cheaper than any type of 3d printing. It's even easier if Ii have the real car to take a paper pattern off of.
A paper pattern?? How does that work? I know a lot more about computers than I do bodywork - so a buck is that wooden lattice looking thing, right? Is the idea that you lay the metal over it and just hammer the metal into conformity (presumably the hammer contacts the metal right over the wood)?