Hey again everyone, My TR journey continues. I'm having a problem with my #13 fuse (dash lights and side marker lights) always crapping out. I bought a Short / Open detector (Amazon.com: Power Probe ECT2000 Short Open Circuit Detector: Automotive) but in the meantime I've been reading about all the electrical problems TRs have and I came across this part: Testarossa Remanufactured Fuse Box | G.T. CAR PARTS INC Have any of you bought one? What are your thoughts on it? I fancy myself as a bit of a DIYer but the idea of soldering and resoldering the 5-layer TR fusebox really has me concerned about doing it wrong. The advantage of the above part is that it's one piece, so it should just slip right in, right? Right? Right? Any help would be appreciated. Joe
Most likely, your RH engine bonnet gas lift body (which is +12V when the exterior parking/running lights are "on') is shorting to the engine bonnet (which is ground), or, we did have one case turn out to be a short in the ashtray light wiring: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/374396-lighting-problem-fuse-keeps-blowing.html A new fuse box won't fix either of these problems, but, if your TR has not had any "improvements" made to the high-current items, you'll eventually have to do something...
this fuse box looks not bad but what kind of contacts he uses? the original ones are not strong enough for the high amp for the fuel pumps,the radiator fans and the AC
Ah ha! Verrrrrrry interesting - I checked out my gas lift body and lo and behold, it shows signs of rubbing. The capper was that there was already a piece of tape on it, old and peeling off! I put on a whole bunch of electrical tape on the whole body and replaced the fuse. I'm going to take it for a drive tonight to test it further, but in my garage everything worked for the 10 minutes I had the parking lights on! Thanks!
I'll accept that as a temporary, emergency fix, but, IMO, the better fix is to move/bend the lower ball mount outward as described in post #24 here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/238053-brake-lights-fuse-randomly-blows.html Is there presently a big gap (much more than ~5mm) between the threaded end of the ball stud and the chassis on your TR? On my TR, it was ~12mm, and by reducing it to ~5mm, the contact between the gas spring body and the engine bonnet was eliminated.
FYI, the temp fix worked - I drove it today for around 20 mins and the dash lights stayed on! Crazy that they have 12 volts going through a functional part like that! I'll look at the spacing tomorrow. Thanks again! Joe
I called them yesterday but no one has called me back yet. I'll post if/when they do. They also have the Modena differential on their site too: Modena Engineering Limited Slip Differentials for Boxer and Testarossa | G.T. CAR PARTS INC Joe
Weird, he just called me back. The fusebox is $975 with exchange, doesn't come with any fuses or anything, and no instructions. (basically just for the circuit board). The Modena differential is $3450. Jow
If we read that Modena add: These have a one-piece main housing... What about all the internal parts ? They seem NOT to be supplied new also ... so .... and ... FAR too expensive !
I already have one MODENA diff in my TR koenig competition and one put into a customers car. he is driving since about 40.000 km without any problems. also I still have here one diff in stock for a second gearbox for my car. all parts inside are brand new, nothing used mel. and when you order it direct at MODENA australia you will get it a little cheaper but you have to pay transportation, custom and tax but I´m just very surprised when I have a look at the modena add: it is all polised now?? mine have been dark ( not colored, the color come sfrom hardening ) also my housing has been also 2 pieces, not only one. please have a look at my competition thread, there you may see the modena diff I have
I was also surprised by the chrome look Romano .... Can you clarify please: does Modena supply new internals with it ?
Why ? True: it is a superb solution ... but .... You can easily do something like this yourself by bringing the 4 or 5 consuming circuits outside the oem fusebox .. no problem ...any DIY can do so ...
Here is a solution I had in mind for my Mondial. Should work for any fusebox. My solution was to remove fuse 21 and use two flat male terminal to plug in fuse location to a new fuse holder to connect the new relay in parrallel. The new relay would give power to the high amp circuit and the weak terminal would only have to support around 200mA to feed the relay coil. You can adapt this to any other circuit. If you prefer you can run a new protected wire from the battery to feed the new relay. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Claude...that is what many of did years ago...for the high draw circuits, A/C, Cooling Fans, Fuel Pumps...Best to check the loads and choose which you should isolate. You can get from most auto parts places a relay "seat" already wired with whips that you can put the appropriate blade connector on that would then plug into the circuit board for the low voltage trigger and one of the main battery feeds for the high side...this also eliminates the issue at the white connectors where arcing can take place...the size of the white connector pins and the tension of the female side is so small and poor that any high amp current will arc...
The most commun relay you will find at any parts store. I call it a ISO relay(Bosch type). They are 5 terminal but just don't use the center one which is 87A. 30 and 87 are the high current circuit and the 85 and 86 the low current for the coil winding.
These guys: relays continuous duty 12 volt & 24 volt DC power relays,starter relays have the best selection of relays I've ever seen. OK, they don't have lots of different types of timing relays, nor any SSR's, but for switching & reversing relays their selection is superb. I've begun using their Cole Hersee relays lately, in lieu of the Bosch, and have been well pleased with them. No affiliation with them whatsoever, just sharing a great source.
PRISSM just make sure if you do the mod to plug the 85 and 86 of the relay on the proper polarity. if you have a diode type relay the 85 HAS to be on the negative side and the 86 on the positive side. A resistor relay has no real polarity.