Got it.. those Yorks had other valves on top that you could turn to close off one side or the other. YOu could close both and the compressor would not let it's precious bodily fluids out..
Actually you CAN pull replacement hoses WITH fittings through the tunnel as long as you do the one with the larger fitting first, going from front to back (pulling from the back). Don't forget to tie twine on the old hoses when pulling them out and pull it through to help with the reinstallation. i had difficulty getting the fitting of the second hose through the rear tunnel exit until i wrapped the twine at the fitting with duct tape so it pulled more from the center of the fitting, and I used a liberal amount of dish washing liquid on the tape, fitting, and first foot or two of hose. My A/C guy (who handles all makes for the same non-Ferrari price) made duplicates of the old hoses with same length and fittings for the cost of materials and one hour of labor. I had pulled the old ones and installed the new ones then let him check my connections and do the recharge. Relatively quick after I learned how to get the right fuel tank out. Key point about protecting the new hoses from rubbing; look everywhere you can see the hose and in the nooks and crannies for sharp edges.
Talked to a tech at Retro-air and was quite impressed with his expertise. The compressor kit comes with all the parts necessary to install the Sanden compressor in the 3x8 except the hose itself. All the fittings for the hoses, including those with the service ports, are part of the kit. Obviously you need to buy the hose and buy/rent the tool to attach the fitting to the hose. IMO, the $599 is not terrible depending on how convenient it is to have everything in one "package" and know that it is all correct. OTOH, it's pretty high when you consider that you can buy the compressor for around 160 bucks, a bracket for 40-50, and the various fittings for about 3-4 bucks each except for the two service fittings, about 10 bucks each at places like this: http://www.acsource.com/hosefittingsbeadlock.aspx Add a new Exp valve and dryer - maybe 70 bucks at most. and you are up around 350. FWIW, I found that Aeroquip makes AC fittings that assemble just like their regular hose fittings and do not require crimping. They are reusable but FAR more expensive than crimp fittings. I would prefer them as far as assembly but when you consider that it's pretty unlikely you will ever need to replace the hoses again, it's probably not a cost-effective method. Aeroquip Air Conditioning Hose & Hose End Fittings - JEGS You have to buy hose/refrigerant regardless so that cost is added whether you DIY the whole thing or buy the kit. The tech mentioned that you have to advise them whether you want an R12 or a 134 compressor. I didn't think to ask but I ASSUME thats about what oil would be shipped with (or in) the compressor. I wouldn't think there is any difference in the compressor itself though I can't say that for sure. But the exp valve may be different as well. I tend to think I will do the individual parts thing as opposed to ordering the kit but I'll do a bit more research.
yes, you have to convert the fittings as not only is it illegal, but cant put in newer r134a into r12 fittings- just are different, and not compatable. Its done for EPA, and safety, of course. Also protects an ac garage from contaminating his entire tank of gas in the event he has to recover refrigerant.
maybe cuz you havent taken the ac system components apart yet- hopefully, you wont have to. If one does, doesnt mean ac wont work afterward, just wont work efficiently, or at peak performance. glad its worked out for you so far. Still, not good/adviseable practice- no good ac guy will ever recommend stop leak. be warned.
Forgot to mention when mounting the adapter plate I believe you will notice when all mounted up with the Sanden it is isolated by rubber from ground. You will need to run a ground to the Sanden .
So.. what does it take to remove the fuel tank? I have the new compressor and it doesn't make sense to replace most items but leave hoses that I know are 20+ years old. I am headed down this road tomorrow so any help is appreciated. Lester
Does the fuel tank have to be totally removed from the car or can sufficient clearance be gained by removing the fuel tank attaching hardware and allowing it to move however much it will move without fooling with the brake rotor/caliper?
I think I managed to get mine out with the rotor on, but I think I took the rotor off to put it back in. It was like trying to solve a Rubik's Cube getting it out and I couldn't remember the sequence of moves to put it back in. Pull the tank. I couldn't imagine trying to pull those hoses through with the tank in. I pulled them out, took them to Carquest and said make me replacements of these. The fittings are standard US fittings.
If your only option is to take your hoses somewhere to be copied, don't fear removing and inserting them with fittings. Getting the old ones out was relatively easy. For the new ones with fittings, with twine attached around the fittings I made a cone of duct tape to keep the twine pulling right in the middle of the fitting, then "greased" the whole end with liberal amounts of dishwasher soap just before pulling the hose. Actually had to push and twist the hose from the other end a couple of times when the fitting approached the end, but got each one through. Did the one with the larger fittings first. Not particularly fun, but doable.
Of course an AC guy isn't going to recommend something that will make him $5 when he can recommend something that will make him $500. But if you are planing on spending hundreds to fix it, what have you got to lose trying a $5 fix first? It worked perfectly with mine. AC held pressure and worked great the rest of the season.
Not quite everyone. I replaced the seal on my York in December 2012 and have not had to recharge since. So far so good......
Ok, so I chickened out. I drove the car here and I don't want to disable it entirely. I'm just going to install the new compressor and Ferrari pulley and clutch and see how she goes. And I have almost half a tank showing which is another negative..
