Mondial Power Steering Sucess Story

INSTALLING EZ POWER STEERING IN A RHD FERRARI MONDIAL

In the eighteen years I’ve owned the Mondial QV, I’ve added a few tweaks to make it a more enjoyable drive. These include replacing the Metric rims and awful TRX tires, with 17in alloys and 45% rubber, my previously posted relay fix for the slow windows, wider opening door stays, and now the piece de resistance, power steering.

The Mondial steering has always been very heavy, with manoeuvring into my garage a chore that usually requires a half hour rest period, and even tight twisty roads can only be taken in short bursts. I have over the years toyed with the idea of installing a power rack from a Mondial T but even assuming that this was possible, (the rack mounts are slightly different), the engineering to fit an extra belt, hydraulic pump and pipework has always put me off.

I was therefore more than a little pleased to discover a company in Holland that specialises in after market electric power steering systems for a wide range of classic cars, the Ferrari 308 and Mondial included.

Electric power steering uses a computer-controlled electric motor to provide additional torque directly to the steering column and uses the existing rack and requires no hydraulics. It is fast becoming the norm for high volume production vehicles, especially those from Japan and Korea. These systems are also speed sensitive, taking a signal for the computer from the speedometer.

After corresponding with EZ Engineering in Holland, reading several testimonials, and studying the Mondial Power Steering installation manual, I went ahead and ordered one. There was a slight element of uncertainty in that EZ Engineering had never made a Right Hand Drive unit before (I live in New Zealand). They therefore offered a full refund if I was unable to make the unit fit in my car.

The unit arrived by courier in a matter of days and is basically a fully assembled replacement module for the upper half of the standard Mondial steering column.

The photos show the Power unit and the Mondial column section it replaces.

(Photo 1
(Photo 2)

Step one was to remove the steering wheel. Here was the first obstacle. The steering wheel is held on a keyway by a special round nut with 4 notches rather than a conventional hex nut. This required the manufacture of a custom socket from a piece of old water pipe. Crude, but effective.

(Photo3)

A gear puller was also needed to unseat the wheel.

At this point the instruction manual says to remove the pin from the upper column universal joint.

(Photo4)

This proved a major challenge as this pin (Yellow in the above photo) is tapered and won’t give way easily. In hindsight it would have been easier to remove the column at the lower universal spline (shown below), as this just requires spreading the universal with a large screwdriver. I had to do this later in the installation anyway (A paint mark on the spline and universal allows it to be re-assembled in the same position).

(Photo5)

With the pin removed (finally) , The old column was removed by unplugging the four wiring connectors, and removing the height adjusting bolt and two pivot bolts at the rear of the first section of the column. The entire column can now be removed to the workbench.

(Photo6)

It was now a matter of transferring the wiring and stalk assembly to the new unit. This involved removing the pins from all the connectors (Mark and photograph first so they can be put back in the same socket positions) The pins come out quite easily using a small jewellers screwdriver. The stalk mounting studs must also be removed and refitted to the new power column.

Removing the steering lock requires removing the anti-theft bolt with a small centre punch, then the lock barrel and ignition wiring can be eased from the housing.

Assembly of the stalk and wiring onto the power unit was straightforward. However I do think they should have supplied a new ignition lock bolt, as these are not easy to come by away over in New Zealand.

Although not stated in the manufactures instructions, it is best to fettle the lower plastic column cover while the unit is still on the bench. The cover requires a half circle cut-out to clear the motor unit and the ribs at the rear removed to clear the computer unit and wiring.

(Photo7)

The next step was mounting the new power column onto the car.

The old column mount brackets are replaced by the new ones supplied and the new column loosely attached to the new brackets by the two rear hex socket screws, also supplied.

This was where the switch from LHD to RHD caused a problem. Because the height adjustment lever on RHD cars is on the left of the column, as it is on LHD cars, the lever cannot be inserted past the motor unit, which is now also on the left. This would not be an issue on LHD cars. I solved this by unscrewing the lever arm and removing the small pin from the adjusting bolt. This meant that the bare bolt could be pushed in place in front of the motor unit. Re-attaching the adjustment lever was tricky but doable by rotating the far end of the bolt with needle nose pliers.

To re-attach the lower column, I found it necessary to adjust the length slightly using the telescopic outer tube. I then knocked the tapered pin back into the upper universal and tightened all mounting bolts.

Again it was straightforward to reconnect the wiring, attach the motor ground wire to a column mount bolt, thread the power wire alongside existing wiring to the main battery terminal, and the speed sense wire to the back of the speedometer.

Finally, a tidy up with cable ties to hold the wiring clear of the column and refit the steering wheel.

(Photo8)

Final finished job.

(Photo9)

After all this effort, the moment of truth. Does it work.

First I tried to turn the steering wheel with no ignition on. As usual, it was a two-arm wrestle. Now, turn the key. The difference is staggering. A one hand light touch is all that is need for lock to lock. What’s more, absolute silence. Now for a road test.

First reversing out of my garage and negotiating the tight turns in my drive was a breeze. No hint of the two-arm struggle that usually made me take my other car instead. Out on the road the steering is firm at speed with lots of feel and just the right amount of assistance in slow speed corners and parking. The only slight effect is a reduction in self-centering, probably caused by the additional drag introduced by the motor. It is very slight so I’m sure I’ll soon get used to it.

Overall a resounding success.
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Hi Jeff,

I am in Lower Hutt. Am in the Wellington Phone book. Are you a member of FOCNZ?

 

Forgot to mention. You can still adjust the steering up and down but you lose the in and out adjustment. EZ will make the PS column to your preferred length.

 

I removed the steel bars that control the amount the door opens and just made slightly longer ones from 4mm stainless steel. Don't make them too long as the wide door opening will catch the front guard.