Testarossa Top Of Engine Refurbish | FerrariChat

Testarossa Top Of Engine Refurbish

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Shamile, Nov 9, 2010.

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  1. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #1 Shamile, Nov 9, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    OK...time to stop playing with Malibu Barbie (Gency (20) ) and get on to the Ferrari.

    This all started with a burst 3" heater hose coming off the block coolant line on the cyl 1/6 line. I could have easily just replaced that hose again but even after all the major services, the 4 coolant sleeves on top of the engine have NEVER been changed! ...Umm...that's 19 years...the same age as my girly girl Cayleigh! :D

    So.....here we go....




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  2. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #2 Shamile, Nov 9, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. Shamile

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    #3 Shamile, Nov 9, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. ...removing the cold start injectors...

    2. Starting the intake removal. Undo the clamps from the rubber sleeve holding the intake to the throttle body

    3. After undoing all the 6mm Allen bolts on the top of the intake, remove it. Be very careful of the rubber gaskets that go between the upper and lower halves of the intake. The metal spacer rings are loose and can easily fall into the lower intake. ....of course luck would have it that the runner the spacer rings falls into is the one with the OPEN intake valves.
    Take SPECIAL care ! What I did was to lift the upper intake slowly off the lower intake while viewing that all spacer rings were in place. I slowly twisted the intake off the throttle body rubber and removed. I put masking tape on the intake rubber to lock the spacer rings and slid downwards towards the block and removed. TAKE YOUR TIME HERE. If you drop a ring into the combustion chamber....game over !

    4. Hmmm....the 1/6 CIS intake plenum doesn't move so freely as the 7/12 side....we'll come back to this...


    Shamile

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  4. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #4 Shamile, Nov 9, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Here's the burst hose. Hmm....I replaced this hose about 2 years ago. I was in a pinch and bought some hose from NAPA. The 19 year old sleeves held while the 2 year old hose burst. I guess you do get what you pay for...
    This hose will NOT be replaced with the Gates Green Stripe as thier quality has gone down hill. I will be using Dave Helms's coolant hoses. They're not cheap but he told me will last 15-20 years. To get to the 4 sleeves on top of the engine, you have to remove the intakes, fuel regulators, disconnect all the injectors and remove the entire fuel distribution system. Wow...that's some work for 4 coolant sleeves ! The cost for the 4 sleeves, 1 heater sleeve and clamps $ 150.00

    2. cutting off the old hose. This is before I knew about Rifledriver's suggestion of "slyglide" from NAPA. Just a small coating of the lubricant and the old hose will slide right off.

    3. Cleaned surfaces with 3M scotchbrite

    4. Continuing the dissassembly....Aux Air valves and lines.


    (Friday)



    Shamile

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  5. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #5 Shamile, Nov 9, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  6. portogts

    portogts Formula 3
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    Hi Shamile!!
    Great work!!!

    I replaced those hoses while changing the cam belts!!!

    Continue the good work!!
    Nice girl by the way!!!!
     
  7. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    I notice that there's never much help around, when one is under the hood or fixing the boat! LOL!
     
  8. JAYF

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    #8 JAYF, Nov 10, 2010
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2010
    Shamile
    Spring for some new brass fuel injectors-your old ones are bringing down your otherwise clean looking engine bay ;^)

    Edit: Actually, time for a valve cover respray as well
     
  9. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    Dear Ferraristi,

    Actually, I have the brass injectors. I did them 4 years ago and have well....dulled out :( You can see the shiny brass thread.

    Yeah, I would like to do the valve covers. They do look awful with the flaking and worn paint. I just don't know how to reseal and re-bolt them once I take them off the head.



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  10. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #10 Shamile, Nov 10, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Removing the 4-6 intake

    2. I stuffed some cloth down the intake to prevent any debris from getting into the combustion chamber. I then used a blade to remove the old gasket material with the help of some throttle body cleaner. Be careful as the machined aluminum surface easily scratches.

    3. Cleaned and clothe pulled. Masked up waiting for assembly.

    4. Remove aluminum oil breather cross pipe.


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  11. AHudson

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    #11 AHudson, Nov 10, 2010
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2010
    Hey Shamwow - Just when I think you're an oversexed cradle robber stuck in the 80s, you prove again your mechanical prowess AND share it here.

    Even though I'm not doing this job (hopefully no time soon!) thanks for this. Will make a great archive.

    Your engine will also thank you and look a ton better. Love these pictorials, especially with the beautiful 'accessories' thrown in for entertainment!
     
  12. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #12 Shamile, Nov 10, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Removing the fuel regulator. I've seen some remove this item as a unit with the the fuel distributors. Hmm...well, I'm sure I'll find some short cuts the "next" time....hopefully not too soon... :D


    2. Unbolt fuel distributors. The bolts at the front are more difficult as the coolant sensor housing is bolted ON TOP of the fuel distributors. Pix to come of the removal...

    3. Front of fuel distributor with coolant sensor housing "Y" pipe inter-leaved

    4. So...this far by Saturday. BUT the last upper intake bolt is stuck/ seized and stripped !

    ....and won't come off !




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  13. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #13 Shamile, Nov 10, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,


    Umm....thanks...I think... Hey....wait....it's all true !! hahahaha.... :D


    ...some "accessories" just for you Ahudson...


    1. Danielle (21) / Brittany (22)

    2. Aleisha (21)





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  14. blackbolt22

    blackbolt22 F1 Veteran

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    I'm enjoying the pictures so far and you seem to be doing something with your car as well. Too many car pics. They distract me.
     
  15. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #15 Shamile, Nov 10, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Saturday nite with Katrina (24) trying to think how to get that last darn bolt off the underside of the 7-12 intake.

    2. All the tools....all the methods...tried everything...

    - reverse thread bit...no

    - "easy out" from NAPA...no

    - tap in 1/4" allen, slightly larger than the 6mm allen...no

    - 6mm allen socket with tape tapped in with hammer...no

    All Sunday stuck on this.....

    OK ! Thanks goes to Dave Helms of Scuderia Ramparte ! Dave said when all else fails, take an punch or draft with a sharp end and centerpunch the outer skirt of the allen. Tap deeply and then angle the punch towards the direction of loosening it. You just really want to break it loose.
    Well, I had to tap rather deeply and then angled it....all the while watching where my hammer was going...next to those unobtanium intakes....

    Well I got it....just like Dave Helms said !


    4. Moving forward once again! Please excuse the ugly sweatshirt. It's never cold in Florida and well...I only have one sweatshirt...hahaha

    The upper intake is off !!


    Shamile

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  16. Shamile

    Shamile F1 Veteran

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    #16 Shamile, Nov 10, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Remember where all the wires/ grounds go. Oh sure...it's easy to remember while everything is in place....when everything's gone....you'll wish you had the picture.

    2. 7-9 Intake coming off

    3. Stop everything and cover those intakes!

    4. Removing the 7-12 cyl fuel regulator


    OK....It's Ladies Nite tonight (Wednesday) Gotta go chase some skirts !



    Shamile

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  17. Shamile

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    #17 Shamile, Nov 11, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. ....from last night.... Amber(21) ....say "hi" to Fchat... :D

    2. Back on the Ferrari today. Unbolt Intake 7/12 But....you can't remove it until you remove the coolant elbow casting next to the intake. But wait...you can't remove the coolant elbow casting until the fuel distributors are out of the way...... :/

    3. To remove the "Y" pipe sensor housing, you have to remove the hose from the thermostat housing. You can't lift the Y pipe with the hose on.

    4. Hose removed and all bolts on the front of the fuel distributors and and Y pipe unbolted.


    Shamile

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  18. Shamile

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    #18 Shamile, Nov 11, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Remove nuts and rubber dampeners from the fuel distributors.

    2. With all the nuts removed, you can lift the rear of the fuel distributors so you can gain access to the coolant elbow castings. When you lift the fuel distributors, put a plastic spray paint cap underneath to allow access.

    When you tilt the fuel distributors forward, make sure none of the fuel rails are binding or catching on anything. The amount of movement is quite small as the fuel rails are flexible due to the rubber lines in between the hard-lines.

    3. To remove the old coolant sleeves, I cut them stroke by stroke with an hobby knife...more precise. In order NOT to score the aluminum casting or pipe, I only cut layer by layer until it can tear.

    4.I slowly push a flat head screw driver to lift the rubber so I can do the final cut without coming into contact with the aluminum.


    Shamile

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  19. Shamile

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    #19 Shamile, Nov 11, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Cutting sleeve on the cyl 1-6 side

    2. Using a flat head screw driver to lift the rubber sleever

    3. OK....here we go...remove the fuel distributors. Check and double check that all lines and wire connectors are removed. Make sure the fuel rails aren't binding as you remove the unit.

    4. Fuel distribution unit coming out. It's not as heavy as I thought and comes out quite well...just take your time and keep checking for binding lines as you pull backwards.


    Shamile

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  20. Shamile

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    #20 Shamile, Nov 11, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Fuel Distributors coming off. Credit to the removal goes to Jim McGee of Pocono Sportscar in PA. It was his advice to remove the lower sleeves so you can lift the Y pipe with the fuel distributors.
    The problem lies with the Y pipe sits above the fuel distributors and when you pull up on the fuel system, the pins holding the distributors are too long for it to clear with the sleeves attached to the Y pipe.
    Yeah....I know...crazy. Soo...remove the lower sleeves, and lift the Y pipe up with the distributors, slide the distributors over the mounting pins and back. Then just remove the Y pipe out....yeah so easy... :D

    2. Yeah...you ain't so tough looking sitting on the ground like that... :D

    3. With the fuel system out, the Y pipe can now be removed

    4. Removing the last of the coolant lines. Don't forget to make sure none of the connectors are still plugged in.



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  21. testamon

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    #21 testamon, Nov 12, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Shamile, looks like a surgeon at work with all those tools laid out on the fender! Taking the fuel heads completely off is the only way to replace all the hoses. You cannot lift the triangular water outlet castings up high enough to clear the studs without lifting the fuel heads off. if you wish to replace those gaskets.When you replace the cold injection nozzle you will notice there are no gaskets to seal. I think that is OK for the outer one as the round nozzle seals inside it with an O ring. However the most inner one has no seal. I made a thin gasket to ensure no air leaks around this when I put mine back together you can just make it out in the photo. Good luck!
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  22. AHudson

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    Lordy that engine is clean! Can you come do mine?
     
  23. testamon

    testamon Formula Junior

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    Thanks took a lot of elbow grease but worth it in the end. That was done 18 months ago and it still looks that good.
     
  24. Shamile

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    Dear Ferraristi,


    Oooh...most impressive Testamon!

    I really like your idea about the cold start injectors....I was wondering why there wasn't a gasket there.

    With all that work done, I hope you're not afraid to drive the car....even in the rain...:)


    Shamile

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  25. Shamile

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    #25 Shamile, Nov 13, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dear Ferraristi,

    1. Opps..remember when I said make sure all the connectors were unplugged...well...OK unscrew the ground wire too!

    2. Unbolt the coolant elbow casting off the block...you won't be able to remove the front intakes without removing the elbows.

    3. Watch out for the washers ! They're thin and silver in color...they could easily drop into the coolant jacket if you don't see them.

    4. Elbow removed.



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