The 19 mm tensioner bolts get torqued to 55 Nm (40 ft lb) and the 19 mm camshaft sprocket bolts to 98 Nm (72 ft lb). After final torque is applied, designate each fastener with a "witness" mark. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I received the connector kit for the cam phase timing unit to replace the ones that disintegrated. Image Unavailable, Please Login
The kit contains the replacement plastic housing, rubber boot and even the pins to crimp on your old wires if needed. The terminals are called "junior power timer" and appear to be the gold plated double terminals that are used in the Dave Helms Gold Connector kit. Bonus. All for $12.50 each. I bought 3 male and 2 female kits. Delivered in 4 days. As you can see, they are a perfect match for the existing plastic housings on the wiring harness. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Unfortunately, the new housings to not fit exactly into the bracket on the cam phase sensor housing. A few seconds of customization with a dremel tool and all is good. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Another solution would be to use the supplied boots and clamp the boot part in the bracket. I will see which solution works better. A crimper for open terminals is needed also. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It was either modify the metal or the plastic. Plastic seemed easier, and if I mess up I'm only out $12...
I got a PM from Scott about the feeler gauges, so I'm passing along a bit more info: Hi Scott, I was just beginning to wonder if anyone was following this post, but if it helps out even one person, it is worth it. I hope it's not too simplistic. I'm trying not to leave any steps out. You need offset (bent end) gauges. These will do perfectly. Amazon.com: ABN Universal Standard SAE and Metric Offset Valve Feeler Gauge 16-Piece Blade Tool for Measuring Gap Width/Thickness: Automotive You also need a caliper. A cheap electronic one that reads in metric or SAE is good enough. Amazon.com: Performance Tool W80152 Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large LCD Screen, 6": Automotive The pick that I used to depress the shim bucket was already listed in the post. You can make the stupid tool (do a search - there are many variants) to hold down the edge of the bucket or you can borrow mine when you get ready to do the valves. Jim
I wonder a little: you trust those original markings on the cams? you do such a great job, why not just double check the timing with a degree wheel? I just did the same on my BB and I know there one mark is about minimum 5 ° camshaft ( so 10 ° crankshaft ) beside the settings. when you will use a degree wheel you also have to follow then the instruction because of the valve clearance with 0,5 mm for setting the timing.
You are right, the best way to do it is to degree the cams and check the accuracy of the timing marks, but the engine was running so well when I pulled it out that I decided to skip it. I've degreed engines (Pontiac) in the past, but it would be a pain to find someplace to attach the gauge on an aluminum engine (I use a magnetic mount on non-alloy engines).
What a great play by play!! As far as belt inspections go, I've been told by mechanics to look at the flat side of the belt and look for wear lines that mimic the distance between the ribs below. Plus anything that's obvious! Cheers Sent from my SM-A705W using FerrariChat.com mobile app
to make a piece of steel, screw it to the engine and put a magnetic holder on is not such a hard work. I only think when you just do so much work why not just do it right? when I once did the beltjob on my BB after I baught it in 2005 I also thaught it was running great. but after the job with degree wheel in 2007 or 2008 the engine responded much much faster and better than before to the gaspedal and needed less fuel. and after about 12 years the belts still were looking not bad, only the bearings lost a little "grease". but no reason to worry. will do then the belt job again in 10 years ( if I still can drive? ) age is greeting
No wear lines on the flat side. I've got my first set of belts that I changed in 2005 after 4 years and 14,000 miles. They all look the same.
I just got done with the repair of the cam phase sensor connections.. I ended up using the supplied rubber boots. The old ends were cut off, wires stripped and new terminals crimped on. I had old photos and schematics from a previous repair in 2005 so I was able to absolutely verify the position of each wire. I think it came out OK. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
How do you know you are not capable unless you try? You go slow, ask questions, make mistakes, learn and eventually you will get it right. That's the fun of it.
This is not chaos. Not even close. For 40 years I worked in Emergency Departments and Trauma Centers. Gunshots, plane crashes, heart attacks, strokes, overdoses. Multiple patients, all critical, all at the same time. You have to keep a hundred pieces of information in your head at once and make split second decisions. You make one mistake and somebody loses a mother or a husband or a child. I have looked chaos straight in the eye and I have made chaos my *****. If 6 little wires makes you nervous, then maybe your original statement is correct, but that's OK. Just follow along with this post and enjoy the ride. FChat exists for our entertainment and knowledge. It's all good.