Last week we finally did a shakedown test at AV Engineering and finished off the work (off road use only) for the following features; 1. Cat Efficiency disable - no CEL for catalyst efficiency so if your running sports cats or none at all and header decats you won't ever get any faults. I can also do calibrations to remove cat protection mapping which considerably improves performance if they are removed. 2. Cat Temperature disable - no CEL and allows total removal of the entire cat control station mess, no thermocouples and so on. 3. Secondary o2 sensor disable - no CEL and secondary o2s can be unplugged without any ill effects. They are only used as part of cat efficiency analysis anyway so after it's disabled these can also be removed entirely and bungs fitted. 4. Evap System Valves disable - no CEL and entire charcoal canister and Evap system can be deleted and one way atmospheric vent valves fitted. 5. Secondary Air System disable - no CEL and entire secondary air system can be removed. All tested and working on worldwide firmwares.
Hope your happy with the work done on your ecu's when you visited. Alas I missed you by just one day! All of the below is now 100% working and tested. We can now even run US spec firmware with appropriate configurations on EU cars.. Even Bosch couldn't do that back in the day without a whole different spin of firmware
Still in the UK Trev. Returning to Canada next week. However, it was tested on a 6sp manual ( not yours) and it worked perfectly. The key (no fob) was used to start the car and while running the exhaust and emission plugs connectors were removed with no change to the way the car idled. Will confirm as soon as I use it on my car next week
What a great job @360trev ! Thank you. How can I know when cat protection mapping is activated on my car ? Do I see "slowdown" warning on the dashboard ? Or it is impossible to know, just possible to feel it ? Envoyé de mon Redmi 3S en utilisant Tapatalk
The cat protection is a special function of the programming which is designed to lean out the AFR (Air fuel ratios) to protect the catalytic converters from having too much fuel dumped into them during typically high rpm, high torque events. By leaning out the mixture beforehand and retarding timing peak power goes down but cats are preserved. If you don't have cats the car doesn't know as it's following this protection model in the programming. By disabling this protection you get the torque requested and power demanded is correctly realized in all circumstances.
Interesting... Thank you @360trev for those explanation. I have no cats and run only with 98 octane. I did a power measure last Sunday by using a "numerical test bench", that means by measuring acceleration on the road in 2th gear from idle to Max rpm and converting it in power thanks to car specs (S.Cx, weight, gear ratio, etc). I admit my measure is not perfect in the point of view of a scientist because I just did it in one direction... But enaugh to see that (like my former Dyno measure) I have a loss of power above 7400 rpm. It is the same phenomenon as thomas_b : https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/360-cs-dyno-run-results.3808/ Below my curve : Wheel power is like other 360s on Dyno : 320hp But why this loss of power before Max rpm ?? Is it the cats protection ? Very frustrating because rpm between 7400 and 8500 is just for the sound pleasure not the performance ! Image Unavailable, Please Login Envoyé de mon Redmi 3S en utilisant Tapatalk
There are at least 2 issues here; 1. Your likely maxing out your AFM's (Air flow meters) so at higher rpm's it cannot add enough air to meet fueling demanded. 2. You stock mapping isn't suited to running with decat, it needs a remap. Ideally you need to fit F430/CS air flow meters as they cannot flow enough air at high rpm's so fueling is also restricted so you get a power drop rather than power continuing as the revs rise.
Trev, will this ever be an actual product one can buy, or do we need to send our ECU's to you? I'm really only interested in eliminating the exhaust CEL and getting aftermarket headers and sport cats. Don't need any performance enhancements, as my 360 just a road car I take to the track once in a blue moon just for for kicks. Could EAG here in San Antonio do the work?
My 360 map is stock so logicaly point 1 and point 2 shall be valid for many other 360 with oem AFM and/or cat bypass. I begin to believe that a stock Ferrari 360 makes a different power than the 360 engine alone on the test bench because of various external disturbances
During the development cycles the only way early adopters can enjoy SAK tool features is to ship ecu's. While not ideal it is proven way and nobody has ever had any issues as I test before and after on a real car. So while yes it will be done and become a real thing you can buy, you just have to hang in there if you want to do it yourself as the upgrade over obd needs a lot of testing. Already a huge amount of work has now been completed but it is a big time consumer. There are a lot of features which help reduce maintenance costs and improve reliability too. Fancy a smoother running engine and better responses? What about actual diagnostics that work (not guaranteed on early cars where even detonation sensing wasn't completed!), even down to calibrations for improved cold starting and so on. There are so many things you may not even realize annoy, even if you dont wish to deactive the immobilizer you may find tje 29.44 seconds before your immobilizer re-arms a frustration. Why not simply reconfigure it to say 2 minutes to give you more time to get in and start before the immobilizer kicks back in? Also every single model year the software was debugged and improved. It makes a lot of sense therefore to use the later versions. In some cases however emission (sound and tailpipe) got progressively more strict so i have even worked out how to run best factory performance maps on the very last firmware versions made. These are just some examples.. there are many tweaks you can do to personalize the behavior to the way you want it. I have a few affiliates in Texas, pm me for more information.
I'm certain that the only cars producing the full power where ones specified at factory with the optional sports exhaust. or optionally retrofitted with the sports exhaust package which came with ecu's to fit. Cars fitted with aftermarket exhaust run so much better with the corrected maps that Ferrari intended. Huge differences with all the snatchiness and flat spots gone.
Hey Trev, great job on this. Quick question? Can AV now do the IMMO delete without having to send ECU’s away to you? Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Hey Trev, exciting stuff as always. People are always wanting things yesterday, but I’m sure I’m sure I’m not alone in my admiration in your efforts to ensure everything is exhaustively tested before release. The features you mention above then, whilst they need the ecus unlocked first, is this something that can be done at home using one of your early beta releases? Also, are these versions strictly 360/430 only?
Yes. They can do it all, we are working collaboratively and I trust them explicitly, we go back many years...
Specifically what models do you want it to work on? I'm concentrating on 360s and F430s (all variants) for now but the way Im working means it typically requires very little extra work to get compatibility with other models. I am very rigorous about doing things properly, if it means it takes longer to release it so be it. I've also even discovered bugs too that Bosch have inadvertently made and also some dirty laundry too about the differences between later and early software versions. Some interesting stuff indeed, more will be revealed shortly.
Hi Trev, model in question is 612. From some of the previous posts on this thread, you allude to testing on other models so wondered if there would be any risk in hooking up my ecus and seeing if the software works? The program works by taking a complete download from the ecu, so any changes made are initially just in he copied version on my PC right? Also, is it your preference that any formal requests for work are put through AV from now on? I’m just thinking about my project for F1 to gated re-flash.
I'm working on supporting the 612 but it's a bit different for things like immobilizer as it has a body computer. It can already detect several maps and all the DTCs as well as I can disable cat efficiency so you could in theory run a decat on a 612, would sound insane but I doubt the average 612 owner would relish this idea Either pm me or contact AV... Either works.
Thx to Trevor's great work I could reflash my 360 ECUs with some modified exhaust flap maps and it works great. As long as you keep the ECU in the original position no issue with the immo or anything else. Just plug and play
Ok. Back home and I installed the ECUs that AV Eng in London modded. At AV Eng I believed I received 'The Works' package. To document the ACTUAL effects of the changes to help others I did the following: (1) Verified that the Battery Cut-off switch selected to OFF (2) Took the battery off trickle charge (3) I unplugged both the Primary Immo box (large one) and the Secondary one (smaller one). (4) I disconnected the exhaust ECUs (left and right) (5) I disconnected the Evap connectors. (6) Reconnected the battery using the Cut-Off switch (7) Put the key in the Ignition Switch, wait for "OK To Start" (8) Waited a few seconds, pressed the accelerator to the floor for 5 seconds as recommended by Eddie at AV Eng (9) Turned Ignition OFF, then performed #7 again (10) STARTed car Car started immediately with #3, #4 and #5 disconnected. Healthy and rock steady idle as before. (11) Drove to the gas station to fill up and deliberately did not tighten the gas cap robustly (kept it loose) (12) Went for a long drive (150 miles return) Results: NO engine alarms. Car is more 'excited" and the acceleration was crisper. A few times the rear end broke loose. It also took off at the stop lights with a bit more authority. No hesitation all the way to red line in any gear. Back home I reconnected the exhaust ECUs, the Evap connectors and tightened the gas cap. I can now lock both doors manually (positively) with the key and not held hostage by the Fob with the click 'lock' and 2 sec later click 'unlock'. Yes, I know its an adjustment or stupid micro switch but I'm tired with the adjustments after changing both cables. I will later upgrade to a proper Keyless alarm, vicinity lock/unlock like most modern cars. Thank you Trev and the folks at AV Engineering. Eddie and Harvey are class acts.
Great write up Fred. With so much less to go wrong with your car it should prove to be more reliable into the future with thousands less in parts to go bad. Just the gremlins associated with the immobilizer alone are truly shocking. I'd love you to see how long your car off a battery tender now lasts. Assuming its healthy to begin with you'll easily be getting a month without worrying about if it will start or not. I fitted a 'quicklynks bm2 battery monitor' - Search on Amazon or ebay, about $35 usd. Your battery performance can be monitored via bluetooth and an installable on your phone. It allows you to verify cranking performance and alternator is working well as well as if your battery is starting to fail. You can also see how much charge is left and get a nice graph showing the trend so you can pretty much work out how many days you've got left after getting used to it.
Ok Trev. My Optima battery is 4 years old and I was going to put a new one in before putting her to sleep this Fall. After work today I will remove the trickle charger for 1 week and start, then 2 weeks and start etc. Will report back later. Monitor my battery via phone? Seriously? I'm getting one asap. Thanks for that.
On a funnier side (in my head, anyways) I promised this car to my son in 10 years time almost 3 years ago. 7 years from now he will probably join FChat and wonder what people are complaining about when he reads that " my car won't start....I suspect my Fob does not disarm the….. My Fob does not open my door every time...…. How do you establish which Evap component is leaking/malfunctioning in a 25 year old car, I've already replaced almost everything ……. etc. Please be gentle with him then because in a similar manner he also does not know (other that what he's read) about floppy discs and cassettes. Lol but I believe this was the bestest Preventative Maintenance EVER (my opinion, of course). Yeah, bestest! Ok, time to take my meds.
Interesting system, thank you for advice. Does this device have a auto-off function ? Because it is important when engine is not running and the battery not connected to CTEK. Envoyé de mon Redmi 3S en utilisant Tapatalk
No it's just a monitor but it's great to verify for instance voltage drop during cranking which gives you a good indicaton of battery health..
So when engine is not running, the device is sleeping and not consuming battery like an alarm or a tracker. That is a good point, I buy one now !
