I do not think I have that. Do have an electronic file of that? That might might be good since most of those tools are very hard to get now!
Thanks to everyone for this thread. I'm in the process of doing the differential seals myself and found the pictures and technical information to be invaluable. I now measure every seal, check clearance to seal from outside edge (before install) and measure depth of the opening (once seal is removed). After the seal is installed, I now can compare before and after measurements. I wanted to make a setup for holding the axle flanges so I could remove the flange bolt and install it to the proper torque. I did not just want to put a screwdriver in the hole and have it slip or mar the case. So I bought some M10 studs, 50mm long, some washers and nuts and made two solid mounting points. The washers have to have one side filed down to clear the lip of the flange. Three washers gave me enough clearance. Then, just wedge a bar or screwdriver between them. Nothing fancy, but it did allow me to remove the flange bolt with just a breaker bar and torque it properly without any slippage. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Joe , that cool of four I did not thin of that. All, Getting back to the original post topic. I had a neighbor come one and hold my driveshaft while i tapped on the tight CV joint. That went well with that joint because there was so much tension the snap ring fit on perfectly. On my other shaft one snapped on easily and I could rotate it about without much difficulty, however on the other two, I am not perfectly happy how the snap rings fit. Granted that is why I wanted new snap rings as the others were a bear to get off, and on very tight. I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for compressing the cupped washer spring a bit to get the snap ring to go on with less difficulty. I used the new style snap ring and the part with the holes is definitely going in the slot but the fat part on the other side is where I am concerned. I took a large socket that fit around the outside of the snap ring and using a piece of wood on the bottom of the shaft, tapped on the socket hoping to force pressure on the spring washer to compress, while the snap ring was in place. I may be over analyzing this as everything as on the ones that I am unsure of after doing the above procedure when I tried to remove them the part with the hole opens up but the fat part does not want to come loose or out of the slot, making me feel like they are half in there? This could be the snap ring is so tight in there and the washer exerting force on it from below. I was thinking putting it in my press and pressing on the shaft on top with two plates on the bed supporting the inner race . I would have to crawl under the press to put on the snap ring or adjust it but this seems like over kill. I thought someone may have a better idea like one of saves or Joe's above to put these on. I just dont want any to come off.. Thanks for any suggestions.
YEP! You are way, way over-thinking this, Rob. Smack the joint down with a big hammer/collar set-up, or use a press...and call it a day. Sometimes the joints go on tight, sometime not. Install snap ring. Done. This is a 15 second operation.
Friends, Just to let everyone know what I did. I was still not satisfied with the way the snap rings fit. Here is what I did. I put the assembled shaft in my press,. I used a bathroom mirror to make sure the inner race was supported, I took this pic before I got it centered. I then aligned the press with the end of the shaft and with the slightest pressure just pressed it a bit then got under the press with some snap ring pliers and made sure the rings were seated, which they were. then slowly released the pressure. Got the left shaft on and the right tomorrow! I used the Band-it Band-Fast bands that came with the boots. They were very easy to put on and tightened them until the rubber looked like it was deforming then locked it. I did not want to put too much pressure on the boot and considering that the bands I used last time were just pulled hand tight and never leaked, I think this will work. BTW there are some cheaper knock off bands similar at NAPA but they are made in China these were made in CO. Even though the bolts and nots looked like new, I replaced them, and used a bit of copper anti seize on the castle nuts. This seemed to work great last time as none were frozen and yet all were very tight to remove. Thanks again to all that have made suggestions, I think this is a good thread!!! Rob Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Friends, Thanks to all who helped. I did not want to post until I was sure but the CV rebuild went fine about 4 drives now and everything is running smooth. I am kind of freaked out though as since i completed it I had not had one drip of anything under my car! My car always leaked at least a few drops after a drive, but I am not going to complain!!! The car is running great, thanks to all of you!!!!!! Rob
That is great to hear. These cars can operate without leaks! I did a lot of leak work on my 30K and I like to say that it doesn't leave a drop. Not on the ground anyway. After this last summer the engine is a bit greasy from some weepy leaks but it doesn't put puddles on the ground so that is the first step. Great to hear your car is back on the road.
Have did you guys find the cross reference CV/axles for your cars ? I'm looking for an axles for a 360. My boot is half missing and I have some noise. Rather than just repack it, I want to replace it for the piece of mind. It would not surprise me to find out it is a Porsche part
Hi everybody, I'm doing the same job on my EURO 78 GTB but it is not so easy : the CV joint is liked welded on the gearbox side, there is no way to extract it. Of course all bolts are out, I put liters of WD40, I also warm and then used a freezer spray : no way ! Not so much space to put tools also ... It is not my first CV joint rebuild but that is the first time I get this trouble, does anybody have any idea ? Thanks.
Hello, I fact I had to disconnect the upper arm and also the damper so that I was able to pull the axle with the right tool, so did I. @+
Which way is the washer installed? Because it's not flat. Does it sping-load the the CV joint? Thanks, Carmine Image Unavailable, Please Login
The washer spring loads the CV joint. When you go to install the circular clip on the end in the groove, you may have to push down on the CV joint (against the washer's spring effect) to allow the clip to fully seat in the groove.
Carmine, It has been a while but I am almost positive the washer would go curve up on the shaft and yes there is a spring effect, that is why I used the press to secure the snap ring although someone smarter than me could probably do it easier. I would highly recommend the redline CV 2 grease that is probably in the thread. I had fun with the cv joints something that seemed more complicated than they are and easier to clean and repack than taking off or on!! HA Rob
Thanks for the quick response. This is the grease I'll be using. Any comments and/or issues? Image Unavailable, Please Login
CV joints are rugged and reliable. Someone on you tube posted he doesn't even change torn boots anymore. Says the wheel won't fall off!
What manufacturer of CV joints are you guys using? The prices seem to range between about $50 ea to over $200 ea.
