| Author | Message | ||
| Erik R. Jonsson (Gamester)
Junior Member Username: Gamester Post Number: 56 Registered: 3-2002 |
The results from ER...Energy Release have been positive locally, as it is made in Boise, Id. People racing stockcars were replacing r.f. wheel bearings weekly or they would seize the second week. Now they are going a full season on the same bearing with ER grease. We use their oil additive in the engine, trans, rearend, powersteering, and radiator(like water wetter). Seems to be working  | ||
| Lawrence Coppari (Lawrence)
Member Username: Lawrence Post Number: 282 Registered: 4-2002 |
I have purchased 5 new MB's over my adult life. The manual for each has said not to put anything but motor oil in the crankcase. These people have been building engines for quite some time. | ||
| Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member Username: Bill308 Post Number: 355 Registered: 5-2001 |
BobD, Your link sure brings back a lot of memories. I tranplated the engine and trany from the original chassis to two subsequent ones, because the chassies kept rusting away beneath me. In its final incarnation, it was fitted with the TR-3B pistons and liners, D-cam, headers, shaved and ported head, and suspension work. A chassis dyno recorded 120+ hp. It took home a couple of time trial trophies at Lime Rock. Thanks for the memories. | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 663 Registered: 3-2001 |
Bill, I've owned several TRs (Triumphs) and my brother had a TR3 many yrs ago.... I just remember him saying the motor started life as a tractor engine. I still love TRs! Just did a quick search and found this.... check the first line: http://www.james-twiss.nl/restauration/tr3-eng.htm I believe they were used in Ferguson tractors manufactured by Standard-Triumph???? Whatever, still a GREAT car!!! | ||
| Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member Username: Bill308 Post Number: 354 Registered: 5-2001 |
BobD, You may be correct. I undertood it to be a lorry engine. A number of English motors had humble beginnings. The Coventy Climax engine I believe was originally disigned to power a portable fire pump. | ||
| Robert Davis (H2oquick)
Junior Member Username: H2oquick Post Number: 196 Registered: 8-2001 |
STP is definetly heavier in wt. than 50 wt. oil. I also use it in coating bearings and rings during rebuilds. When that stuff is cool it hangs to metal like honey. My old chevy 454 dually likes it with 50wt. helps keep the smoking down on starts (valve seals are getting weak). I don't see what it can hurt. The Lucas is also another fine product and is race proven. | ||
| BobD (Bobd)
Member Username: Bobd Post Number: 662 Registered: 3-2001 |
But Bill, don't forget your TR3 had a tractor engine, right? "Lucas, Prince of Darkness". | ||
| Bill Sebestyen (Bill308)
Member Username: Bill308 Post Number: 353 Registered: 5-2001 |
Many years ago, I used to add a quart of STP during oil changes to my sports car at the time, a Triumph, TR-3A. When rebuild and modification time came around, I dutifully drained the sump while hot, prior to tear down. Upon removal of the sump, I discovered a thick (about 3/8 inch thick) coating of viscous oil like material in the bottom of the sump that did not drain out. After that experience, I only used STP to coat bearings and cams during engine reassembly. Later I switched to moly based assembly lube. I can't say for sure that the thick goo on the inside bottom of the pan was STP, but I never saw this problem again. | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Junior Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 202 Registered: 4-2002 |
Actually there was a car manufacturer that recommended oil additives - Ferrari! My owner's manual says to use some sort of moly type additive - can't remember off hand the brand name. This advise is probably 1975 technology, as I doubt they still recommend this. | ||
| Mitch Alsup (Mitch_alsup)
Junior Member Username: Mitch_alsup Post Number: 165 Registered: 4-2002 |
Most of the more modern engines (not necessarily Ferrari engines) have been redesigend with smaller oil clearances so that they can use lighter weigh oils and, thereby, gain some MPG. Most of the oil addatives increase the viscosity and actually hurt these engines via: a) longer time at startup before oil flows to bearings and things, b) more wear on starters and batteries, c) with the occasional problem of too much oil pressure. Some oil additive packages increase the zinc and phosphorous anti-wear agents. These additives have been shown to degrade catalitic converters, and were severely reduced as we went from SF to SG oil formulations. None of the auto manufactures specify oil additives. None of the oil manufactures specify oil additives. Only the oil additive manufactures indicate (however vaguely) any (proported) benefit to their addative package. In the past, when the FTC looked into these various snake oils, they (invariably) filed suit under false advertising and/or deceptive trade practices. I used to use all sorts of these products. I no longer use any. Straight synthetic oil is the only thing that my high performance engines see. Red Line 20W50 for the Ducati; Shell 10W40 or Mobil 1 for the Ferrari. Since teflon (PFTE poly-flourinated-tetra-ethelene) is not soluable in oil, water, or much of anything, it can condense, collect, and cause all sorts of problems. They used to use PFTE in antifreeze--the comertial where a guy would use an ice pick and jab the radiator. It was the PFTE balls that collected and stopped the leak. Wonder what this stuff would do in the--say--oil filter? At least STP won't clog anything up! whether it ahs any short/medium/long term benefit has never been established. But it has never been accused of actually being a cause of the damage--the same cannot be said for PFTE oil additives. | ||
| Joe Craven (Rscapri2600)
New member Username: Rscapri2600 Post Number: 7 Registered: 7-2002 |
The bearings are usually the last thing to wear out on an engine unless they do not receive adequate and clean oil during operation. I've rebuilt street driven and race motors which I over rev and start/stop/start and the bearings often come out looking and measuring like new. The stuff that tends to wear out include valve guides, piston rings and the tops of cylinder walls near the heads where high temperatures and little oil reach. In addition, the valve guide seals will harden with heat/age and the motor will eventually burn oil. If you keep a car filled with clean oil, then I'm unaware of any additives that can measureably increase engine life. | ||
| Mike Charness (Mcharness)
Junior Member Username: Mcharness Post Number: 69 Registered: 8-2002 |
As an alternative to STP, I suggest you check out Lucas Oil -- they're very into racing, and I use their Oil Stabilizer stuff in my 308/QV. They also support the Ferrari Club. www.LucasOil.com | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 3155 Registered: 2-2001 |
The viscosity of STP is greater than 50 wt oils. The viscosity proof of 50 wt against STP is to drain both of equal amounts out of their cans at the same time and see which one drains out first. But that is not my point here. I have seen STP still on the bearings and crank long after the engine has been drained. This to is good for start up protection. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 3154 Registered: 2-2001 |
I guess this should be directed to STP only rather than other wonder or fix all additives. In my opinion I feel that STP does help prevent start up friction and does not have damaging effects on the engine. It remains where oil drains off. I have observed it in engine protection and used it for years and my experience has been nothing but good. | ||
| Verell Boaen (Verell)
Member Username: Verell Post Number: 388 Registered: 5-2001 |
Somewhere in the archives is a pointer to a summey of the judgement against Slic50, STP, Motor Honey, et al. Search for STP and judgement or lawsuit A prosecution expert testified that they were nothing but pure 50W oil w/o the aditives that color & darken it. He said that putting a pint of 50W into your crankcase would have the same positive and negative effects as any of these products for 10% of their exhorbitant price. Since we're already running nnW-50W of some kind, I'm dubious that it would make much difference. The judgement went against the additive companies & they were ordered to radicly revise their claims. | ||
| Matt Lemus (Mlemus)
Junior Member Username: Mlemus Post Number: 155 Registered: 8-2002 |
I have used and like Slick 50 for years. I think it is a good idea as well. I should look into STp and the such. Slick 50 is expensive. But, then again, not as expensive as an engine rebuild. | ||
| magoo (Magoo)
Advanced Member Username: Magoo Post Number: 3150 Registered: 2-2001 |
I think STP or like additives are a good thing for bearing to crank film coat to help in cold start friction. I have inspected previous engines bearings where the STP was used and the coating was still on the bearings after the car had cooled down and the oil drained out of it. I personally think it helps. Comments???? |