| Author |
Message |
Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
Junior Member
Username: Robertgarven
Post Number: 78
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, August 31, 2002 - 12:02 pm: | |
Bob and all,
I think it was you that said you put the shim under the bottom door hinge. You are right, after sevral days of "adjusting" the door the only way to increase its height at the latch end is by some kind of shim under the hinge. I put 4 thin wave washers under the hinge for experimentation puposes and it was too much. I think I will make a very thin steel shim when I can and try that!
Rob |
Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Junior Member
Username: 4re_gt4
Post Number: 101
Registered: 4-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 4:34 pm: | |
Rob: Between you and Peter Rychel, I don't think you guys have missed a single square cm of these cars. Perhaps you should collaborate on a book. |
Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
Junior Member
Username: Robertgarven
Post Number: 77
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 28, 2002 - 2:44 pm: | |
308 GT4 Sagging Door Fix
First off I am not sure the GTB/GTS has the same construction and this procedure is not for the weak of heart.
My driver�s side door has been sticking closed for a while. A 1976 tech update I have says put 80 kilos of pressure at the extremity of the door. After unsuccessfully trying this I decided to put a shim under the lower hinge to try to correct the sag. I was under the assumption that there was not any adjustment to the door.
The door is welded to two hinges with pins. The body hinges are attached by 8 5mm flat head hex bolts. These bolt into two mounting plates welded to the body. To remove the hinges I tried to take the bolts out but they were frozen in place. After several attempts the only device that worked was drilling a 15/64 hole into the hex hole and using a spline type extractor, which is hammered into the hole and turned out. After finally removing the bottom bolts the hinge pin came out fairly easily. I ordered new pins from TR, which were aluminum with a grease fitting on one end. On my car the pins are steel and have a 15mm cap that unscrews to reveal a small ball bearing and spring grease type fitting. (I have only seen this type fitting on my IR impact wrench).
I decided to clean and reuse the pins as they showed little wear. On the hinge plate that bolts to the body there was a hole in the center of the plate. It turns out this is for alignment purposes. The hinge does not bolt to the body but into a steel plate that floats on the other side of the mounting bracket (which has oversized holes). I used two floor jacks with rubber pads to get the door somewhat aligned to tighten the bolts so I could shut it. It was late when I finished and I unfortunately chipped a small amount of paint off the curve of the door the first time I tried to shut it. At least I have solved the problem. Once the bolts are loosened the door has plenty of adjustment, now if I can only find the proper set-up I will be happy.
Rob
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Bob Campen (Bob308gts)
Member
Username: Bob308gts
Post Number: 296
Registered: 9-2001
| | Posted on Monday, August 26, 2002 - 2:12 pm: | |
On mine I had the same thing, I drilled an angled hole in the head using a square tapered EZout drove it in and it broke them loose. Mine were not that tight, just VERY soft bolts. |
Robert W. Garven Jr. (Robertgarven)
Junior Member
Username: Robertgarven
Post Number: 75
Registered: 2-2002
| | Posted on Monday, August 26, 2002 - 2:01 pm: | |
I posted not too long ago about a problem several people have had with their 308's door sagging and sticking closed. I tried yesterday to remove one of the 4 stripped screws holding the hinge on to the car frame. They are so soft the allen wrench rounded the hole and I tried a spline extractor with no luck. I also tried to remove one of the hinge pins with very little luck. I just bought two differnt kinds of extrators and was hoping if anyone had any suggestion on how to proceed? |