Want to redo my garage...what's best for floors? Tile/epoxy,etc.? | FerrariChat

Want to redo my garage...what's best for floors? Tile/epoxy,etc.?

Discussion in 'Detailing & Showroom' started by RedNeck, Aug 30, 2017.

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  1. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 Veteran
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    #1 RedNeck, Aug 30, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    So I'm looking to redo my nasty ass garage without dumping a ton of $$ into it as the kitchen and bathrooms are also in process. I've been looking at vinyl tiles, which seems to be the most cost effective, but as I do work on my cars, not sure if they would hold up over the years. Also looking at the Rustoleum Rocksolid Metallic, which looks great, but after reading it seems that you need way more than what Rustoleum quotes plus clearcoat, etc. which turns the $600 job into a $1500 job real quick....I did look through the garage pics thread, but not a whole lot of floor discussion. Not interested in the standard industrial stuff, would like to have something that can be shined up.
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  2. Freddan

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    #2 Freddan, Aug 30, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    i have tile in my garage, easy to Clean gives a really good overall impression. also have rubber floor mats where the car goes in and out just in case.

    Ronnie Renaldi here on FC has a killer good looking floor in his new garage. (i think it´s painted) not sure what it is and how good but it looks very nice.

    best of luck whatever you choose.
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  3. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
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    Your floors ARE a mess. To get them prepped for a proper epoxy paint job could get expensive. On the other hand, a good epoxy job will help keep moisture content down in the garage, if that's an issue, as it can reduce infiltration of moisture through the concrete.

    We did about 20,000 SF in an office as prep for floor tile because the hydro-static pressure kept un-gluing the tiles by dissolving the adhesive. Epoxy sealed the floors and problem went away.

    I think it was a Rochester - Midland product, came is several finishes, including high gloss. It was a long time ago, maybe 20 years, but I also recall it could be tinted as well.

    Go with a commercial floor finish, more durable, hold up better. Look for something for a production/warehouse floor.

    D
     
  4. gt1995

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  5. Shaun Oriold1

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    #5 Shaun Oriold1, Aug 30, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Start here:
    ->http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/detailing-showroom/540088-best-garage-flooring.html
    ->http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/detailing-showroom/535223-garage-floor-epoxy-paint-tile.html
    ->http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/detailing-showroom/512006-alternatives-epoxy-flooring.html

    Those will give you some starting points. I'm in the custom closet / garage business, and we do epoxy floors, and floating plastic tile floors. In all my houses , shops I've always done epoxy/polyaspartic. Its relatively cheap, durable, come in any colour(s) you can think of -In fact we did a gold flake floor for a customer last year.

    I wont totally disagree with Dave, but the comment I'll add is that many warehouse coating companies dont do the same prep work as a residential floor company. Warehouse owners dont care about filling hairline cracks. Where as a garage we do, needs to be 100% perfect before we coat it. My guys are meticulous. The coating quality would probably be the same however. The professional level of coatings dont differ from residential to commercial much. Where the disparity of quality happens is the DIY products.

    Same goes for prep work in addition to crack filling. Any reputable company whose putting down a quality coating will grind the floor to ensure it sticks properly. They should also do a moisture test, or at least ask about moisture issues. Where it becomes a tricky thing is that if they test after a rain storm the hydrostatic pressure will be higher, compared to 2 weeks of drought. The testing isnt foolproof, and is really a snapshot of that moment in time. If its suspect, a special primer can go down to help keep the water from forcing its way through the concrete. Saying that.... Grading, proper downspouts far way from the house, not having flowerbeds up against sides of garages with sprinklers aimed at the house all help too to avoid water problems.

    You can also do logos in you want, different colours, custom blends. I like to nerd out over epoxy!

    Hope that helps.
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  6. GTS Bruce

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    Mine is a DIY vinyl tile job. Remember to start from the center and work out. I have white with a light blue speckle. If I were doing it over I would pick a darker color. The tires tend to leave black where the car is parked. So every few years or so you get a strip and a good wax job. It is slick when wet. GTS Bruce
     
  7. GTS Bruce

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    BTW paint not an option on mine due to some cracks and unevenness.
     
  8. Dave rocks

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    #8 Dave rocks, Aug 30, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Many, many different epoxy systems are out there and the price range is substantial.

    Epoxy cannot be put down if the moisture coming thru the slab is too great. Any epoxy contractor that is worth anything will do moisture test first. A top coat vapor barrier can be applied first, which was done in my building because my moron builder left off the plastic vapor barrier between the base and the concrete - that $400 savings cost him $14K coz I caught it :)

    Most epoxy systems have a urethane top coat as epoxy will yellow. My shop floor is a 5 or 6 layer epoxy mortar system - all expansion joints and cracks filled (seamless floor).

    It's very durable.
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  9. JoshVette

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    Anyone paint and seal or stain and seal??
     
  10. RedNeck

    RedNeck F1 Veteran
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    Thanks all....yes my garage is a mess, but I can't take the blame since I've only been there for a year and a half....except for the one nasty spot that was a cocktail of power steering fluid and coolant caused by an unmentioned automobile that I mention often here...

    I did look at some vinyl tile today, which would be a quick cheap way to get something on the floor...but it looks like it would the part too. Of course, it was just a sloppy display so a good install might help. Luckily it's only about 12 years old and there's no cracking but it would definitely need a good cleaning before I put anything down....
     
  11. RedNeck

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    #11 RedNeck, Sep 4, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    So heres what i ended up going with...Trafficmaster peel and stick vinyl tiles. The adhesive on this stuff is NASTY so Im not to worried about tires, etc. I think this stuff would stick to water. Its rated for light commercial so it shluld be good for a garage floor thay doesnt see too much abuse. The best part? It was on closeoyt for .50 sq/ft. Perfect for a cheapskate like me.
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  12. RedNeck

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    My phone is a bad speller....
     
  13. jlc308

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    That looks great, where did you buy the tile?
     
  14. RedNeck

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    It was one of those local closeout places. West yellow traders or something.
     
  15. Shaun Oriold1

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    As G.I. Joe always said back in the day, knowing is half the battle. so here goes.... Those tiles VCT ( Vinyl Composite Tile), are great, and fairly durable, price cant be beat. If you installed them with joints nice and tight, then you'll keep most water out from below. We see them a lot in garages we redo, and I make my guys wear respirators when ripping up the tiles, as the moisture accumulates below the tile, and it never really evaporates properly. If you're only there for +/-5 years then dont sweat it. If you're planning on being there long term just keep it in mind if you go to replace it.

    Make sure to wax them too. Zep commercial floor wax is fool proof . dump on, mop around. A couple coats will help a lot to keep the floor looking good for years. And Simple Green to clean it, since its non-acidic.

    Looks good though, and priced right for sure!
     
  16. SCKOMS

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    It will be interesting to see how that holds up, but won't it eventually show any irregularities in the floor below (cracks, seams, etc.)?
     
  17. rockminster

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    I use Swisstrax interlocking tiles and they have been great, especially if you've got a floor that's cracked and/or stained. Very easy to DIY - just need a table saw and a jig saw. There is an underlayment that can be rolled out to make it a bit more comfortable and quiet to walk on. If a tile gets stained (hasn't happened to me yet) very easy to pop in a new one. Also, not too difficult to break along a seam and pull the floor out in big sections to do a 1 or 2x per year cleaning/vacuum of the concrete floor.
     
  18. RedNeck

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    Thanks all! As for longevity, we'll just have to wait and see. Not heavily invested so if it needs redone down the road, no big. But this stuff does supposedly have a 10 year light commercial warranty.

    My garage floor is just one big slab. No seams, no cracks so probably won't be an issue
     
  19. GTHill

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    Hopefully not too much of a hijack, but what would you recommend for steel floors?

    GT
     
  20. WATSON

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    #20 WATSON, Sep 5, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    +1.

    I have this same floor in my garage except they put in the colored chips prior to the urethane top coat. It has held up quite well over 4 years.

    They shot blasted my floor before the first coat to make sure it had a solid adhesion for the base. It literally was with #10 shot and the damn things were flying everywhere.

    I considered tile, but between me dropping tools (and cracking a tile) and the angles in the floor for the floor drains, the Epoxy / Urethane was the answer.

    Older pictures, but you get the idea
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  21. RedNeck

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    Beautiful. Maybe down the road I will do something professional if I stay here, but for a cheap improvement, this should work pretty well...looks a lot better than that nasty concrete..
     
  22. Shaun Oriold1

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    Depends on how clean the steel is, and what the intended use will be. When we do garages, we can coat over steel ( say a grate, or access cover) As long as the steel is clean (Oil free, and rust free). It can be coated with Epoxy, and will last forever. Really the same principle applies if you wanted to use VCT over steel too (and want it to stick properly)

    I'd have to ask my guys what grit, but they'll quickly sand the metal with a sanding wheel, for a grinder. Once its base metal, you're good to go.

    S
     
  23. GTHill

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    Shaun,

    That would be really good to know if you don't mind. Not sure if you know my application, but I have about 2500 sq ft of steel floor to cover. I've never considered VCT (had to google that) but it looks like an interesting option. Have to see if I can find pricing. Thanks!

    GT
     
  24. RedNeck

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    Forgot about this thread...have any pics? Maybe the F-chat braintrust can help with some ideas.
     
  25. pexogoce

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    I'm adding 1200sf of new garage and replacing the floor in my current garage. I'm realizing I have the opportunity to choose any floor finish. I have never had this option before. What would you do if you were starting from scratch?
    garage flooring phoenix
    I was at a wedding last night and really liked the flooring in the barn. Looked like they added larger (.5-1") rocks to the mix then sanded smooth and clear epoxy.

    Thanks for any advice. I don't want to waste this opportunity.
     

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