Ok guys I've searched and can't seem to find a proper answer for this. I have a 2005 F430 which occasionally gets an amber slow down light. Usually happens if I'm in gear 2, 3 or 4. When it flashes slow down, the car remains in that gear and won't shift up or down. When I stop it will drop into neutral and not go into any gear. I have to shut it off... wait for all the lights noises and indicators to go off. Wait a few seconds, restart and then its good again. I am told amber slow down light means ediff or f1 issue. Its not a common occurrence, but it does happen once in a while. Any input?
I had the same problem with my 05. It turned out to be the E Differential solenoid. The F 1 system looses pressure and won't allow the trans to change gears and will drop into neutral at stop lights. If will only get worse. The dealer fixed mine for $ 1750. It's been working fine for the last two years. Good luck with yours
If it was Ediff the Ediff light should come on? On my manual 430 I have had the Ediff light appear occasionaly, the ignition has to be turned off and on again for it to be back to normal. I mentioned this to Ferrari who told me that it could be the pressure switch in the diff, an expensive job...much easier to switch off and on. I can't however see this effecting the gear change on a F1?
The E-Diff is controlled by the same hydraulic system as the F1. OP: I would guess you have a pressure problem but diagnosis over the internet is fraught with danger. I would recommend you get your car to someone with an SD3. I note you have a 2005 so you probably have an early pump. It might be worth testing how often it primes the system when changing gear. Simply turn the ignition on (engine off) and let the pump run until it stops. Change gear up and down through the range and count how many changes between the times the pump kicks in.
Alright guys I have an update to my problem. I noticed the following: - Amber slow down light flashes for a few secs then becomes solid - Car remains in the gear its in until I come to a stop, then drops into neutral - If I keep it idling with the solid slow down light, after 45 secs the message disappears and the car shifts and drives fine again - Mostly happens when its warm out and I'm driving slow in second or third gear (car temperature readings look fine on the dash) - No other warnings appear (no transmission light, no e-diff warning, no check engine light etc.) I confirmed I have an earlier pump, but this doesn't really happen when i am shifting a lot, just coasting in slow traffic. How Do I tell if my e-diff solenoid is bad?
I've had similar issue on and off for the past 18 months. I replaced the solenoid (amazingly $25 on eBay)--but wasn't it. Next I want to bleed the F1 system--theory is some air in it, and when it warms up its enough to give the warning. I'd like to bleed it myself without any SD system--I saw a post somewhere where someone did it. I found that putting the car in full auto transmission mode works when I get the yellow slow down light, or restarting the car. I've seen many reasons posted for this issue, and I hope just bleeding will fix it.
Do you get a F1 light or any other warning? I'll try putting it in auto mode next time I get it and see if it does anything. Usually restarting does or waiting it out. I have bled my system last August and the shifts are perfect. Let me know if it works for you
See that's what's throwing me off. I don't get any transmission error when I get the slow down light. It just says slow down for 45 seconds and then resets itself I bled the system myself. PM me I'll tell U how
Probably air... Need to bleed with computer. I just changed f1 lines and air was in system They bleed again and all good
are you suggesting that bleeding without computer causes the amber warning to continue even after bleeding?
The slow down lamp is almost always an internal leak in the Ediff solenoid. This causes the F1/Ediff pump to stay on to long and the F1 ECU shuts the pump down for 45 seconds to cool the pump. When this occurs the F1 ECU inhibits shifting to preserve pressure to disengage the clutch and select N if you come to a stop. The leaking valve is generally caused by debris or contaminants in the system so it should be thoroughly flushed prior to installing the new valve, the new valve will then need bleeding which does require an SD unit to do properly and then the valve must be bedded in with the SD unit to properly function. We do several of these a month. There will not be any errors stored and the gearbox and Ediff warning lamps will not come on.
Thanks windsock, that was exactly the answer I was looking for. So basically need a new ediff solenoid? Do you know which part or part number specifically? And then get it bled?
E-diff solenoid, F1 pump, actuator internal leakage, and on and on....it needs to be diagnosed properly and not carpet-bombed with parts then not bled correctly.
Eddie, you seem to know a bit about this--can you please explain why you cant bleed the system without an SD3? Seems like simple to get air out and just make sure the reservoir does not run low. Not saying bleeding when taking the system apart--just getting air out if a working system is acting up? thanks
Unfortunately, it's not just a case of bleeding from the clutch block by powering up the pump to clear any air within the system after it has been opened. You have to sequentially open the solenoids on the valve block to clear the air from each circuit. If it's pump only, it recycles the Unpurged air to the tank, which you will see as the fluid turns pink due to the air in the fluid. In this case, only one solenoid, SV6, is powered up. People have, therefore, managed to purge enough air from the system after a DIY pump change through the bleed port and forcibly recycling through the tank, for the system to operate. You will definatley not clear all the air from the system this way, however. If any work is done outside if the clutch circuit, You should use the three drain screws on the actuator, which require several solenoids to be activated in a sequence using the diagnostic machines inbuilt procedure. It should be noted that many of the actuator failures that are now occurring can be directly attributed to poor bleeding after service operations or other malfunctions within the F1 system that are left unfixed.
Sorry V V for hijacking your thread ..... But I bled the F1, and went out for a test drive--it was running great--then BAM------a pothole, one beyond repair bent rim, and one beyond repair tire, and towed home. So, I'll need to finish testing later!
Oh ****tt Did it at least fix the problems U were having before? I usually get the issue on hot days or after its warmed up. I'm getting the entire system bled from Ferrari including the ediff solenoid. Maybe theres air in it
It was running perfectly--but probably not long enough to claim success before the bad luck.....please let us know what happens with yours.