Hello, I finally came around to getting to replacing (partial) the F1 pump oil on my 599. I'm managed to remove the undercarriage cover and have located the reservoir, but I can't make out if it has a screw top or press fit, I can feel the level sensor. It seems that I may have to remove part of the exhaust to have better access. Has anyone done this before and could give some pointers? Thank you. Sent from my EVA-L19 using Tapatalk
There is a ring tool for removing the cap and the tank is on the left rear side of the gearbox after you remove the rear underbody. Be advised you cannot really change the F1 fluid without an SD3 or similar diagnostic tool for bleeding the system. This is one where you are probably better off taking her to your tech every three years to get the F1 fluid changed, system bled, leak checks performed, self test run, and PIS optimization done. You cannot do those things yourself without a proper diagnostic tool.
Does anyone know how Ferrari gets around the right to repair laws such as the one that's in Massachusetts?
You can do it yourself. Just buy an SD3 license, $25,000 worth of SD3 hardware, and a Ferrari set of tools including ring tool, syringe for F1 fluid with special tip, and train yourself on how to use an SD3. But basically, Ferrari does not care and those laws are pretty much unenforceable at any rate. All the modern cars require specialized diagnostic tools, so Ferrari is not alone there. Ferrari got in trouble with the EPA in the 90s for not making their OBDII connectors common for all devices on mandated emissions related codes, but they quickly fixed that.
Yes, I am aware that I'm only partially changing the fluid. Where I live they charge 800$ to just connect the SD3 tool. If I can access the tank then I will get at lease 500ml out, which is half of the total. Has anyone tried doing it with the bleed screws? There are two, one at the back on the gear selector and one in the front on the clutch housing (I suspect it must be the bleed screw for the throw out bearing). Sent from my EVA-L19 using Tapatalk
If you just want to change half the fluid so you do not have to bleed the system, you can do that with a turkey baster and not have to bleed the system. You just have to make sure you do not take out too much and introduce air into the system. My techs do that for me every year and then do the main F1 service every three years. You will still need a ring tool or something similar to remove the cap, but those are widely available.
Since no one offered to share a WSM I bit the bullet and had the following work done last week for the annual: -engine oil -engine oil filter -air filters -pollen filter -aux belt -brake fluid flush -coolant flush -power steering fluid flush -differential fluid flush Had the car back in two days. Cost was $1250. DCT instead of F1. Found manual shifting to be usual greatness but the shifting in AUTO to be somewhat harsh and jumpy the whole ride back. Expected it to be butter smooth but traffic was stop n'go for two+ hours. My assumption is that its normal for a full diff flush but hope its back to usual next ride. It was an 87 degree day and noticed the coolant and oil temp was ~6 degrees cooler than in similar conditions prior to the service. Good luck with your service.
Yes, this is the idea. The other option is to use one of the bleed screws, let fluid flow out, measure, and then pump in the same amount. Any idea on the bleed screws?
Btw, for the transmission/diff oil, is there any specific spec oil I should be using? Manual just says 75W-90. What about the GL rating? Thanks Sent from my EVA-L19 using Tapatalk
Before I bought my techs AutoEnginuity software ($3500), we used one of Juri's pumps to pressurize the system and that would allow you to open the bleed screws, manually shift through the gears, and do a pretty good job of bleeding the fluid and lines. Just opening the bleed valve is not going to get rid of water and groad in all the valves and lines. I use Valvoline Full Synthetic Transaxle Oil in mine, others use the recommended Shell product, and many use Redline NS, all in 75W-90. I believe all are GL-5. The Valvoline is specially formulated for limited slip differentials, so no additive is needed. The Redline NS may require an anti-slip additive if chattering is encountered.
Great, thank you. Will attack again in the next few days and post results. Sent from my EVA-L19 using Tapatalk
OK- I have found the oil - Motul 100% Synthetic ATF. Will try tomorrow to replace. Can anyone confirm if in fact the entire F1 circuit has only 1 liter of oil? Thanks Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yup, only 1 liter, but I would not try and change the fluid unless you have some way to bleed the system. You could end up having to flatbed her to a shop with an SD3 or equivalent otherwise. Changing out half of it without introducing air into the system will work fine. Two or three changes like that and you have a defacto change, but have not eliminated any contaminants, water or air from the system.
No clue. You need to ask your tech. Just like bleeding brakes, the system needs to be pressurized to get fluid to come out. Without cycling all the valves, the lines and actuator will not be flushed.
Successful. We decided to drain the reservoir by removing the lower hose, it just slipped off. Approximately 450ml came out, so in line with what we expected. Next will be to fill using a pressure filler. Sent from my EVA-L19 using Tapatalk
Let us know if the pressure bleeder pushes out all the air. Incidentally 450 ml is about what my techs get out from the top using a turkey baster.
The pressure filler will be used to pump the new oil into the reservoir. I plan on taking a chance an opening one of the bleed screws and see what comes out - will do this once the reservoir is full with the new oil. I've identified two, will go for the one on the gear and nearest tot the pump and reservoir for now. Sent from my EVA-L19 using Tapatalk
What do you all think of the color of the oil? The smell is the typical ATF scent, but it's a bit subdued. Sent from my EVA-L19 using Tapatalk
Before you open the bleed valves, you can pressurize the system by opening the 599's door. That will turn on the pump and bring the system up to pressure. F1 fluid is basically synthetic ATF/power steering fluid, so no surprise it smells like ATF fluid. If you are successful, a couple more changes like you did will change out most of the fluid. So 1/2 new the first time, 3/4 new the second time, 7/8 new the third time after driving her between changes.
Yes, that's the idea. Just need to see which bleed valve is best to use. Correct, will be a "rolling oil change". Sent from my EVA-L19 using Tapatalk
I decided to use the one furthest away and with the easiest access 11mm. I let it drip out and repressurized the system by opening the door. Note: make sure not to activate the pump when your reservoir is empty! To avoid this best to disconnect the battery cutoff. Sent from my EVA-L19 using Tapatalk
Mates You can "invent a lot" and change most of the ATF oil of the F1 System ( i did it twice so i could be shure most of the fluid was repaced by a new one ... ! !but dont be amazed if some time after........ you feel and hear sone "clunks" driving when your gears are being changed ... Better pay what you have to pay and have that PIS adjusted by a Leonardo Diagnostic Tool or Equivalent So i have done that and .... :-( Clunks etc ... chat search etc ..... $ ......... Had to go after to the Ferrari tool admit what i did there at the shop so they changed the oil again + PIS adjustment and magicaly Th clunks disapeared ... Only i got is the story to tell you now and the extra expense ... I do not know what i did wrong... Maybe it was the clucht wear that was already too much and only 50% clutch life remaining??? Jorge Cruz
Ron- Would work fine. My techs use Valvoline Dexron VI in mine, but they are all pretty similar as long as they meet Dexron III or Dexron V1 standards.